( Photos now shown ) IBC Matched Blade & Chipbreaker Set

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Hi Scouse

I was going to get a blade set that fits The 2 3/8" for No.4 1/2, 5 1/2, 6 or 7 as I have these models

Cheaper than buying new planes :lol:

So it looks like I will be the first to have a go :wink:
 
I imagine that they would be very good, as they are very thick - I was going to buy one at the woodworking show and handled it, its a lovely piece of metal for sure! However, its almost certain that you will have to widen the throat on the planes by filing, ( I am sure you knew that already though) as the iron is so much thicker than the standard one. if you don't mind doing that then I would not hesitate!

let us know how you got on, I have one of my planes, a 605 bedrock that is iron less at the moment and I was thinking of on myself, as I have Hock irons in my other planes and fancied having an IBC just for the sake of completeness.....

Cheers, mark
 
Hi, Chaps

Just remember to file the BACK of the mouth not the front, then you can put back the standard blade and close the mouth right up.

Pete
 
I am interested in this set, as well as the DVD of plane fettling. I have watched his videos on various sites as well as details of his competitors products. Some U.S. forums rate his product. I have got my Stanley/Record working nicely with thin blades, but... I shall watch this space .
 
I have fitted these blade and chipbreaker sets to a Stanley no 5 and a Stanley no 5 1/2 ~;-)#

They were on show at the Alexandra Palace show, and the Axminster Talking Tools show. They were available for people to try.

The result is totally satisfactory. There is a feeling of solidity which you don't get with a thin blade.

The accuracy and finish of both parts is outstanding.

best wishes,
David Charlesworth
 
David C":119qmf91 said:
I have fitted these blade and chipbreaker sets to a Stanley no 5 and a Stanley no 5 1/2 ~;-)#

They were on show at the Alexandra Palace show, and the Axminster Talking Tools show. They were available for people to try.

The result is totally satisfactory. There is a feeling of solidity which you don't get with a thin blade.

The accuracy and finish of both parts is outstanding.

best wishes,
David Charlesworth

Where would you put them in the present (large) spectrum of after-market blades?

BugBear
 
OK boys and girls

here are the photos :mrgreen:
 

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The IBC blade and C/B sets are available from Classic Hand Tools.

Well Bugbear, that question is a bit of a minefield as I'm sure you are aware!

IBC blades are very flat, chipbreaker edge also very good, both needing minimum work. Edges are polished which is nice.

The feature which makes them unique, are the tabs added to the Y lever slot. This makes it possible to fit the 3.6 (approx) blades straight into Stanley, Record, and similar Bailey planes. (maybe some mouth filing). No other aftermarket blade & C/B has this feature. That's why most replacement blades are around 2.4mm thick.

I should declare an interest as I was asked to test and endorse these blades. Some of you may have seen me quoted in a large advert in FW or POP Wood.

David Charlesworth
 
David C":nv1l5lvr said:
Blister,

Have you fitted your blade yet?

David


No not yet

The plane I was going to use turned out to be a 1902 model type 9 so decided not to modify that one

so currently scanning the the net for a project plane
 
I have bought a 2" set from Classic. Arrived within 48hrs. Nice bit of kit. Spent some time with the 1200 diamond stone followed by the 8000 ceramic stone to get the back flat. sharpened the 30 degree bevel on the ceramic, quite easy. Tried 3 planes, fitted well with no mouth filing in the Record Marples. Then I found that with 1mm of blade protruding beyond the back iron (my usual setting - what blade projection do you guys normally use?) I could not get a thick shaving, only fine. The central screw holding the blade assembly and lever cap iron was fouling on the small hole in the back iron, not slot as on the standard vanadium blades. Phoned up Classic, they suggested filing the mouth and following the instructions on the packaging. Filing a recess on the back iron sorted that out. I can get all range of thickness shavings out of the plane, but I have run out of forward motion on the blade adjuster. It has jammed up. Next thing to do is to remove 1mm off the 2 supports on the plane casting and off the front 2 angles of the frog. The blade does cut really well, good shavings, The blade is sharp and does retain its edge. It does work better than the vanadium Stanley/record blades and the Japanese laminated steel blades that I use. £75 better? I was intrigued, so I bought one. I may buy a wider one for use in my other planes. Would I have been better buying a Veritas or Lie_Nielson? I already had a range of planes.
 
Problem solved. School milling machine in a mess, so I went back to my workshop and with a file, took 40 good controlled swipes at the frog in 2 places. a little bit of filing on the body of the plane on the 2 upstands that take the rear of the frog, and all is well. Thick to thin shavings, with the adjustment wheel now in the centre of travel with no jams. What a nice plane and planing action. Less effort to plane the wood, Rock Maple at the moment, no sanding neccessary. So quite a few (4 or 5) hours to strip and fettle the plane. But for less than £100, my new short Record Marples shortNo.5 is as good as the Veritas and Lie-Nielsons that I have access to from a well off friend.O.K. my labour time is cheap but satisfaction rating is very high. This is all about technology, the ability to solve problems. If it does not work, hit it with a bigger hammer!.
 
Mike,

I think you have done very well. Your posts highlight the variations of size that existed in plane manufacture. Particularly in the length of chipbreakers.

I fitted IBC kits to a USA Stanley No 5 & an English 5 1/2, with no other work but a little mouth filing. The results are superb.

Best wishes,
David
 
If the chipbreaker was 3mm longer there would have been fewer problems. My US no 4 plane is 1/2" shorter than my 2 English counterparts. Itis only 1/4" longer than my English no.3. I thought all these planes were built to a standard?. I am still really pleased with the new set-up. It works a treat.It may cost a lot of money. But not as much as my 4 x 8"x 3" Ezelaps and the Polish ceramic 8000 stone. I built my own benches and do make real things, furniture, guitars, archery target stands etc. I teach and use my own tools giving kids skills and giving them a pride and satisfaction of success and pride in their skills.
 
A question I have - These are doubtless very good, and others are too. But if I was looking for the very best after-market blade that did NOT require any mouth adjustment (obv irreversible) which would that be?? I have a Hock in my Stanley No3 and that is great, nicely fairly thin too. So seriously, the best after-market blades that do not require a mouth re-work??
 

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