Perfect Router - Does it Exist?

[drillbit]

I've been thinking about buying a router. Having seen some graphic pictures of router accidents, my top criteria has to be safety.

Two things seem important for this - an electronic brake and a switch which you have to keep holding down for the router to operate.

Done a lot of Googling and the only router I have seen which seems to have both is a 500 quid Festool. Not much of a wide choice range.

It could just be that the blurb for other routers doesn't specify much about how the switch operates, but they seem to all be full ON/OFF switches rather than the trigger kind like on a drill.

Just wondering if anyone knows any other routers which have both an electronic brake AND a switch which only works while you press it in?

 

[Racers]

Hi,

Makita 3612C has a switch you have to hold on and a brake, I have one my self and I like it.

Pete

 

[p111dom]

Don't know why you want these features. A non locking switch just means the machine is harder to hold and therefore control. Can't see how thats more safe. Braking isn't really an issue for a router. It's not like a tablesaw where the inertia of a very large spinning disc or blade requires braking and even with those machine the blade has to top in seconds not instantly. Router bits are for the most part small and in many cases smaller than the actual motor so I've never found it an issue. Better to go for a model that feels comfortable and controllable with good guarding rather than cheap machine with braking and no lock trigger. For realistic money, there's the Trend T5, no locking switch but not braked. The Triton may have a break but has a locking switch. The Festool has a combo switch which is a trigger but also has a lock and braking. It's great but expensive. If you're relying on these features to stop from hurting yourself, that's a worry as neither feature would prevent this.

 

[Paul Chapman]

a switch which you have to keep holding down for the router to operate.

I really don't like the switches that you have to hold down for the router to operate. I think they are less safe because they distract from what you are doing.

I find routers among the safest of power tools. Those who don't are invariably doing something wrong or have a rubbish router IMHO.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Mcluma]

I find routers among the safest of power tools. Those who don't are invariably doing something wrong or have a rubbish router IMHO.

Paul

I find that a very bold statement, both on the safest powertool/router as well as on the side of the operator

 

[Mcluma]

In respect of the perfect router

Like said above, what is perfect in your eyes is not necessarly perfect in my eyes, you might look for features that are totally unimportant to me, and visa versa.

You might think your wife is perfect, I might just think.......

 

[Paul Chapman]

I find routers among the safest of power tools. Those who don't are invariably doing something wrong or have a rubbish router IMHO.

Paul

I find that a very bold statement, both on the safest powertool/router as well as on the side of the operator

Perhaps I should have clarified what I said. I've always used good quality routers - an Elu MOF96 and DeWalt 625 (which is based on the Elu MOF177). Good quality routers work well and are easy to use. A lot of cheaper routers, such as many of those sold by the sheds and aimed at the DIY market are, in my view, quite dangerous. They don't work at all well. They tend to be very poorly made. In particular the plunge mechanisms are often "sticky" and the so-called safety switches are quite cumbersome to operate. Many of the controls are badly positioned. All these faults lead to distraction when using the tool which make them quite dangerous as well as frustrating to use. The cheap cutters sold by the shed also break easily, even when not stressed.

As for operators, it's obvious from many of the questions that get posted here that many users don't read up on how to use power tools properly. I also know several people who have bought a router and used it without really having a clue as to how it works.

In my experience, if you buy a good quality router and learn to use it properly and without distractions, then they are quite safe tools.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[OPJ]

I'll second Pete's recommendation for the Makita 3612C. I've had one of these for six-years now and I've not once considered replacing it (even if it is 110v). The electronic brake is the best I've seen - stops and starts with a slight kick (as many of the larger routers do) but then, from the point of releasing the trigger, the cutter comes to a stop within three-seconds (provided you're not using a large cutter on high-speed, of course). For me - and, this is always a personal thing - this feels very close to being my perfect router. I have also used a DW625 and others.

What does let it down though, is the ridiculously short length of the bars on the fence (one of the issues they've sorted with the more recent model, which also has built-in LED lights surrounding the cutter, IIRC). Dust extraction is also to be desired in some situations but, again, too many routers suffer from this... However, the Festool routers are supposed to be superior in this respect. What I do like about their designs, however, is the ratchet-action collett, which is unlike anything seen before on a router and appears to be almost 'effortless', compared to the knuckle-bashing method accustomed to most other models.

We should ask, first of all - is this solely for hand-held use or are you also looking to mount it upside-down in a table?

 

[Phil Sewell]

I have always used the model based on the elu 177e . I seems ok to me although I haven't had the chance to compare it to other makes. I did however have to use a cheap model when I was helping a friend. It was an Erbauer with a switch you had to hold done. I found it the most awkward thing to use, and just a big distraction from what I was doing.

If I was not used to routers I'd go on a days course somewhere to build my confidence levels up and get told the possible dangers etc. I can see how they could be a bit intimidating but like all machines they are very predictable, it's always the operator that causes the accident.

Obviously others will like that type of switch so it's just my opinion but I would never consider a router with a hold down switch. The brake is a good idea but again I've never been in the position where I needed the router to stop quickly.

Watch me rout my finger off tomorrow!

Phil.

 

[Stoday]

My first router was a Black & Decker. It was the second worst tool I ever posessed.

Eventually I bought a Trend and happily trashed the B&D with a sledge hammer.

My advice is to avoid cheap routers; there's good reason why the trade routers cost more; unlike some trade tools it's quality, not just reliability.

 

[jimi43]

I find routers with a hold down switch a PITA! They are no safer in my opinion.

I think that technique is the major part of safety.

Jim

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

The large ryobi has as a hold trigger, not sure on the brake though I have never really taken notice. My perfect router is the Trend T11 but this is a on off switch and in my eyes a very safe one. Its very easy to switch off with just one finger. The switch is close to where the handles are. You have to twist your hand some to turn it on. Its not hard to turn on but im sure them that use this or the yellow version will understand. (This isn't why it's my "perfect" router. It feels really nice and smooth to use.)

The safest way to use a router is to use it correctly. Don't just clamp the cutter at the depth you require, once clamped adjust the plunge limiter to where the cutter is now then release the clamp. This way if you let go for some reason the cutter retreats. The only time you should really use the clamp is to hold at the plunge depth required while you adjust the plunge stop. This is just one of a few safe ways to use one.

 

[BTR]

I also own the makita and have to say it is very good router one of the best i have used

 

[mailee]

Well as you probably know I do have a 'few' routers which range from De Walt, trend, Hitachi and Freud and not one of them has the hold down switch. I hate the damn things! I find it tedious and fatiguing holding down the switch when doing a lot of router work. Most of the machines have soft start which is good on the larger routers but none of them to my knowledge have braking. As has been said they slow down quickly enough as most of the cutters used are small in diameter. I used to have one of the Power Pro routers which had the hold down switch and it was a pain trying to keep the switch on while turning corners or manipulating the router around a profile. (In my opinion it was more dangerous trying to use it this way) It is now a doorstop I am pleased to say. Best way to use a router safely is to read up on the use of one and then practice on scrap. If in doubt.....ask. :wink:

 

[doorframe]

I have a silly number of routers, all cheap and nasty. Most of them are permanently set up for dedicated tasks. The hold-down switches are something I do moan about. After just a few minutes my thumb (or finger... depending on the router model) is burning up. Fortunately it's an easy job to replace with a toggle swich (pennies from maplins), although this is NO substitute for a NVR switch. Also, the spindle lock mechanisms are less than reasonable, with quite a few having needed modifying. But the 'finish' quality is far more dependant on the 'bit' and the 'user' than the machine.

I've never (touch wood) had an accident with any router and attribute this to carefull use rather than the routers 'quality' (or lack of it).

Roy

 

[Steel City Man]

If you want a decent priced, push and hold power button, the £99 Erbauer router from Screwfix is pretty good, although its out of stock ATM. This is a powerful 2100w router, proper soft start so no jerking on start up at all, and can handle pretty much anything you throw at it; that said it's pretty heavy so delicate work is tricky, especially if you are having to hold down the power button at the same time! Mine is currently in my table, works well.

I think the Bosch here is getting towards 'perfect' in many respects, simply because you can change the base according to usage, although at 1400w, it may be underpowered in some situations.

 

[OPJ]

I suppose the best compromise might be a trigger/'dead-man's' switch which can be locked on and off, as you do find on a belt sander and many other power tools (sanders, jigsaws, etc.). That way, it's also easy to reach. Not that the other option impossible. I don't personally find the handles on the DW625 all that comfortable and, after prolonged use, it has given me hand cramps (I know others have suffered from this, as well). That's never been an issue with my Makita 3612C.

Someone once told me that the trigger on a DW621K can be locked on... I bought one last year but, this doesn't seem to be the case. It only holds for a couple of seconds, if that (a great ¼in router though with possibly the best dust extraction set up I've used).

One potential hazard of the on/off switch design is that you can accidentally leave it in the 'on' position as you plug the tool in to the mains - and off it goes!! :shock: I've never done this myself but, I've seen others who have. This does make them an excellent choice for router tables, though. I had a problem with an old Elu once where the collet locked tight as I was tightening it (I did not over-tighten, honest!!). I didn't realise how bad this was until I switched the tool on and it started spinning on the bench! Wasn't easy trying to grab it so that I could switch it off (wouldn't have been an issue with a trigger switch, see... ).

 

[drillbit]

Thanks for all the advice.

This is for a hand held. Don't have room for a table.

My reason for thinking a hold-down switch would be better was that I thought if I do manage to plunge the router into my hand, at least it would not still be powered on. I've seen some gruesome pics on the internet of deep gouge wounds and I was thinking of how big a nightmare it would be having a router turning inside your flesh while you try to locate the off switch..

Same for the electronic brake - but again, I guess maybe your hand would act like a good brake anyway, so maybe it wouldn't make any difference.

Makita defitely gets a lot of praise on the internet and in this thread, so might be worth me looking at that.

So what other safety advice do you guys have? Would I be better off going for a smaller less powerful router first?

I have seen a course in Northampton on routing, so I will definitely go for that first I think. It's sponsored by Trend, but I guess there's nothing to stop me paying my course fee and buying a Makita.

 

[OPJ]

I'm still not sure how your hand would come in to contact with a spinning cutter. After all, this is a power tool like any other... Therefore, you should always keep both hands on the tool (that's what the handles are for! ;-)). If you do that then, you have full control and neither hand should appear anywhere near the cutter.

Small, ¼in palm routers are slightly different in that a lot of people will use them single-handedly... But then, they also take only small cutters.

I'd assume that most of the images you've seen have come where someone was using a router inverted in a table, where the cutter is generally far more exposed (but, even then, that's not to say that you cannot greatly reduce the risks).

 

[jimi43]

Whilst the issue with on/off switches and power up is valid...it is just something that needs care. Same as chuck keys in drill presses and lathes...

HSE is trying to design out accidents and for mostly the right reasons but a tiny NVR would be a better option IMHO. There is really no substitute for checking...nor is there for stupidity!

What Olly said about accidents being on tables is really the case. Especially unguarded, unsupported work where there is a sudden grain direction change (like on a disc)...and that is even WITH a guide pin.

The trouble is...this type of working tends to actually pull the hand towards the cutter, so it is not simply a case of "keeping your hands away". You have no option...they get dragged in.

There are many things you can do to minimise and even stop these accidents happening completely. Steve Maskery has some great tips on these. Most accidents happen with people (even "experts") doing a "quick job" without a guard in a hurry.

Wood is a live, unforgiving medium...router cutters are hard, fast-spinning, sharp cutters. Learn to use them properly, don't work when tired, don't stress the cutter or over-feed the work and you'll be fine.

Jim