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Ben Dandelion

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Hi
We need to cut 1000 pine parquet blocks into three. From 220mm x 66mm into three 220mm x 22mm pieces.
We have the cheapest table saw from screwfix but a friend suggested a bandsaw would be better for the job and make a cleaner cut. What shoukd we be looking for in terms of spec? Can we just get one from screwfix and maybe use better blades or do we need to invest in something more upmarket? All recommendations very welcome.

We had also thought of getting a bench sander. Again there seem to be somany options and a big price range. What should we be looking for and any recommendations?

Thanks in advance
Ben
 
First, welcome! That’s quite a task you’ve set yourselves, but I hope you aren’t set on 22mm thick as after cutting and sanding you will be lucky to get 19mm which is why your friend was correct to suggest a bandsaw which will take less wood than a table saw blade would.
Are they covered in tar/bitumen? They will probably have lumps on the edges which will make sawing them difficult I’m afraid. Best of luck, what do you intend to do with them?
Ian
 
You won't get three at 22mm from 66mm, you need to allow for the saw kerf, so will lose about 5 to 6mm the 66mm off for a table saw or mitre saw, about 2mm for a fine cut band saw.
 
You will get a straighter cut on a saw bench, but it will be a lot safer to use the bandsaw, Also, you have to take into account the kerf of the saw so you won't get 22mm out. Probably nearer 20mm if you use the saw bench and a tad over this if using a bandsaw.

You could use a made up wooden shoe to guide the blocks safely on the saw bench, or even a couple of push sticks. A thousand blocks is a lot to cut up, I assume these are clean rather than used ones, otherwise this will be a tedious and very messy project.
 
Thanks everyone. Yes. Used parquet with bitumen. We may lose the messy bottoms. We are trying to use it as a shallower floor covering that will cover a bigger area do the exact depth is not crucial, as long as it can do the job. So, can we use the cheapest bandsaw and bench sander or are there particular features that would help? Thanks
Ben
 
The problem you face is lumps of bitumen on the sides – they only have to be very small to make sawing difficult and potentially dangerous, you will have to make a shoe that the bits of parquet fit into - holding the bitumen side then two cuts to get the bits you want. To be honest this isn’t a job I would have taken on.
Also you say that it’s Pine? Isn’t parquet was made from hardwood?
Ian
 
Thanks. It is pitch pine. I am leaning towards Record Power Sabre 250 and BDS 250 sander. Any recommendations on saw blades. What time for cutting this kind of block? Thanks
 
Check out my thread here.
Aside from the extreme mess you'll make cutting the bitumen off the other challenge you may encounter is how to clean the sides.
If the reclaimed blocks have over the years been sanded and re-varnished then you will find that they likely will have shrunk somewhat and so the sides will be encrusted with a mixture of dirt shavings etc that has now embedded the detritus with whatever varnish was used and believe me -getting that off is a real pain - It is incredibly abrasive and will blunt even carbide tipped scraper blades.
As the blocks I wished to re-lay had shrunk a lot I decided to re-size them and to do this you at least had to remove the bitumen which I did with a thicknesser - best done in cold weather when the bitumen is more brittle and it makes an incredible mess and because you'll find all sorts of contaminants in the bitumen - oversite, nails etc you'll chip HSS blades.
I then lay the blocks on their sides and coated liberally with paint stripper and laid over with cling-film to retain the moisture and leave them overnight to 'develop'. Then the following day you can scrape the resultant gunge off and with the planed off base use that as a reference to square up the side, then using a simple jig on a table saw, rip the other side square to the 1st and then trim the ends - the endgrain on mine had shrunk over the years..
Once you've got a regular block you could then cut it in two if you wanted to reduce the finished thickness, however and as others have commented this is an awful lot of work upfront and unless you have unlimited time and resources it would be far simpler to make your own blocks from new appropriately thicknessed timber.

One last point - because I only cleaned up one edge using the paint stripper the opposite one was cleaned up when I resized the blocks on the table saw and this was not without some issues - If the trimmed size is only marginally smaller than the actual then the (presumed tct) will be ripping through timber as well as some of the crud on the uncleaned side and in my case I experienced a close call when sparks from the blade cutting through embedded git etc caused a smouldering fire in my chip extractor waste collection bin...
 
Crickey - For me to perform that chore, I'd have to be locked up in prison, and for it to be a condition of my early release! -:)

Re the Bandsaw, that Sabre 250 would do fine. The '250' means 250mm or as they say 10", but just to be clear, that's the throat depth - not the maximum cutting depth, with is 127mm (5"), which will be fine for your purposes. It has two speeds - 460mm and 1,000mm per minute and a 550Watt motor, and the blade length is 70.5". Smaller bandsaws (EG, 4" depth of cut) tend to have 300Watt motors and a blade length of 60" or so. A smaller bandsaw would happily cut a few pieces of parquet, but the blade would wear out quicker, and it's asking a lot of the motor to do anything other than maybe batches of ten (cut a few, sand a few). In any event, the Sabre 250 will be useful for other tasks which a smaller bandsaw would not.

As to the blade, as you're cutting straight lengths rather than curves, 3/8" width would be the norm to prevent the blade from wandering, and with 66mm depth of cut, to prevent the gullet of the teeth from clogging, 3TPI rather than say 6TPI would I think be a good choice. (For cutting fairly tight curves, a 1/4" wide blade is better, but if you cut curves with a blade than try to make straight cuts, the blade will tend to wander).

Many bandsaw users including me buy their blades from Tuff Saws. If you wish, you could drop them an email to seek their advice (basically, a one man business, so he rarely answers the phone but will promptly reply to emails).

Ripping/Re-Sawing

email: [email protected]

You need to pay some attention to setting up the blade guides etc. Worth watching this video by Alex Snodgrass on 'tuning up' a bandsaw:



You'll get a cleaner cut if you don't force the wood, but let it go at its own pace, which will mean less sanding. Should only take a minute or two to make a cut. As you'll be making 2,000 cuts, each 220mm long, if I've got my sums right, that's 440 linear Metres at a depth of 220mm. To give the motor a rest, (and the sander too), I'd suggest you spend maybe up to half an hour cutting on the bandsaw, than half an hour sanding.

As to the sander, a 100mm wide belt/disc sander would happily do the job, apart from the fact that you're doing so many, and unless you were doing them in small batches, rather than a 'production run', maybe the BDS 250 would be a better bet. Otherwise, I'd have suggested this one:

Axminster Workshop AW150BDS Belt & Disc Sander - 230V

£119.00 down from £149.00. (3 years parts and labour warranty.

You'll need to consider what grit of belt to use. 80G will be quicker, but won't give such a smooth finish as say 120g. Also when it comes to belts, you get what you pay for. Aluminium oxide are the cheapest - zirconium last a lot longer, but are more expensive.

A sanding belt cleaner stick will help the belts last longer:

Silverline Sanding Belt Cleaning Block 25mm - Screwfix

Finally, cutting and sanding so many blocks will create a heck of a lot of dust, so it's essential that you use a 'shop vac' if only a 'Little Henry', connected to the dust port of the bandsaw and sander, plus a proper dust mask to P2 standard, if only disposable ones such as these:

Amazon.co.uk

(It's not a good idea to use your lungs as a dust filter).

Hope these rather verbose notes might helps a bit.



Have fun.

David.
 
Crickey - For me to perform that chore, I'd have to be locked up in prison, and for it to be a condition of my early release! -:)

Re the Bandsaw, that Sabre 250 would do fine. The '250' means 250mm or as they say 10", but just to be clear, that's the throat depth - not the maximum cutting depth, with is 127mm (5"), which will be fine for your purposes. It has two speeds - 460mm and 1,000mm per minute and a 550Watt motor, and the blade length is 70.5". Smaller bandsaws (EG, 4" depth of cut) tend to have 300Watt motors and a blade length of 60" or so. A smaller bandsaw would happily cut a few pieces of parquet, but the blade would wear out quicker, and it's asking a lot of the motor to do anything other than maybe batches of ten (cut a few, sand a few). In any event, the Sabre 250 will be useful for other tasks which a smaller bandsaw would not.

As to the blade, as you're cutting straight lengths rather than curves, 3/8" width would be the norm to prevent the blade from wandering, and with 66mm depth of cut, to prevent the gullet of the teeth from clogging, 3TPI rather than say 6TPI would I think be a good choice. (For cutting fairly tight curves, a 1/4" wide blade is better, but if you cut curves with a blade than try to make straight cuts, the blade will tend to wander).

Many bandsaw users including me buy their blades from Tuff Saws. If you wish, you could drop them an email to seek their advice (basically, a one man business, so he rarely answers the phone but will promptly reply to emails).

Ripping/Re-Sawing

email: [email protected]

You need to pay some attention to setting up the blade guides etc. Worth watching this video by Alex Snodgrass on 'tuning up' a bandsaw:



You'll get a cleaner cut if you don't force the wood, but let it go at its own pace, which will mean less sanding. Should only take a minute or two to make a cut. As you'll be making 2,000 cuts, each 220mm long, if I've got my sums right, that's 440 linear Metres at a depth of 220mm. To give the motor a rest, (and the sander too), I'd suggest you spend maybe up to half an hour cutting on the bandsaw, than half an hour sanding.

As to the sander, a 100mm wide belt/disc sander would happily do the job, apart from the fact that you're doing so many, and unless you were doing them in small batches, rather than a 'production run', maybe the BDS 250 would be a better bet. Otherwise, I'd have suggested this one:

Axminster Workshop AW150BDS Belt & Disc Sander - 230V

£119.00 down from £149.00. (3 years parts and labour warranty.

You'll need to consider what grit of belt to use. 80G will be quicker, but won't give such a smooth finish as say 120g. Also when it comes to belts, you get what you pay for. Aluminium oxide are the cheapest - zirconium last a lot longer, but are more expensive.

A sanding belt cleaner stick will help the belts last longer:

Silverline Sanding Belt Cleaning Block 25mm - Screwfix

Finally, cutting and sanding so many blocks will create a heck of a lot of dust, so it's essential that you use a 'shop vac' if only a 'Little Henry', connected to the dust port of the bandsaw and sander, plus a proper dust mask to P2 standard, if only disposable ones such as these:

Amazon.co.uk

(It's not a good idea to use your lungs as a dust filter).

Hope these rather verbose notes might helps a bit.



Have fun.

David.

Thank you so much David. All my questions answered.
 
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