Parkside track saw

[Rufus]

I'm having real trouble unscrewing the blade screw on my track saw. It's a 5mm allen which I believe is counter-clockwise to unscrew. I've tried a long allen key and also a 5mm allen socket but neither are budging it and it's starting to round slightly. Anyone else found this? I don't really want to resort to cutting a slot in the screw just yet but that's the only way forward I can think of it rounds much more. Thanks.

 

[Spectric]

When you do get it out refit using a decent cap head screw, the one you have sounds soft. Also a decent hex wrench will fit more snug and not damage the screw, most screw heads are damaged by badly fitting tools.

 

[artie]

Seems to be a recurring problem.
I always destroyed the screw when changing the blade. I bought a few spares they're not expensive.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Seems to be a recurring problem.

What does the washer under the blade look like?

On a Festool TS55, the washer has two prongs on it, which locate in the washer the other side of the blade.

This means the cutting action of the blade cannot induce the securing bolt to tighten.

If the saw is made without those prongs, the bolt may tighten in use.

You could try a piece of paper or thin card or plastic under the washer. If the screw then does become too tight, you can burn it out or heat it up to soften it, which releases the pressure on the threads.

 

[Rufus]

When you do get it out refit using a decent cap head screw, the one you have sounds soft. Also a decent hex wrench will fit more snug and not damage the screw, most screw heads are damaged by badly fitting tools.

Absolutely agree on the wrench - I was using a really good quality hex/allen socket which was snug fitting but still will not budge the thing.

 

[Rufus]

What does the washer under the blade look like?

On a Festool TS55, the washer has two prongs on it, which locate in the washer the other side of the blade.

This means the cutting action of the blade cannot induce the securing bolt to tighten.

If the saw is made without those prongs, the bolt may tighten in use.

You could try a piece of paper or thin card or plastic under the washer. If the screw then does become too tight, you can burn it out or heat it up to soften it, which releases the pressure on the threads.

I guess this is Festool vs Parkside

 

[Spectric]

Looks like a soft cap screw, as this screw will be scrap you could try this. Either use a decent hex wrench and clamp a pair of moles round the screw to make the wrench a better fit or just use a pair of moles and undo this way. The worst will be grinding the head off and then remove the remains which should no longer be tight.

 

[ChaiLatte]

Either use a decent hex wrench and clamp a pair of moles round the screw to make the wrench a better fit or just use a pair of moles and undo this way.

From looking at pictures of the machine before offering advice, it seems to be a button head screw recessed into the washer. Hence there may be nothing for the voles to get their teeth into.

If the screw is destroyed, hammering a torx bit into it can work as a bush Eaziout.

 

[Stevekane]

Sounds like its getting desperate, before destroying the screw would it be worth fitting a bit into your impact driver and trying that, they can be very effective at removing screws.

 

[chrispy108]

Yeah, I ended up using an impact driver on it the first time I changed the blade.

After that it was fine - just overtorqued from the factory.

 

[Britman]

Probably lock tight. A little heat can help break the bond.