Paint spraying equipment?

[MorrisWoodman12]

Would kind members recommend paint spraying equipment suitable for applying finishes to MRMDF please. I'm a bit strapped for cash so an economic solution will be good. I have five or six cupboards/wardrobes to build and finish.
TIA
Martin

 

[RobinBHM]

If it was me, I would make the carcases out of melamine faced chipboard and then you’ve just got the doors and trim to spray.

Its a bit hard to answer your question without some more detail.

If cost is a major factor you would be best looking at the cost of the paint, as paint made for spraying is expensive and it’s a wasteful method of transfer.

If budget is really tight Id say use a gloss roller and paint made for brushing, like Tikkurila.

If you have more budget then consider Morrels AC lacquer and mask.

The ANI160 gun is quite a good HVLP gun on a budget, but you need a decent size compressor to run it.

before sheet material went up in price post covid, I used to find the paint cost for a job could easily be more than the MDF.

 

[MorrisWoodman12]

@RobinBHM Thanks for your reply and advice. I hadn't realised spray paint was significantly more expensive nor had I heard of Tikkurila. I will investigate them and paint a couple of test pieces with a gloss roller.
Thanks again.
Martin

 

[Ollie78]

+1 for Tikkurila I have had very good results by using a gloss roller with Otex primer a quick de-nib and 2 rolled on coats of the topcoat (forget the name maybe valti or something, its the furniture one) . Used it on a really big built in unit before I got my spray setup.

Ollie

 

[MikeJhn]

HVLP guns should not require any more than about 10psi, if it needs more (i.e. a big compressor) its not a HVLP gun but a compromise gun and not in the same league as a real HVLP set up, also the lack of overspray with a good HVLP gun is not a wasteful method of transfer.

 

[recipio]

The most disappointing thing I ever bought was an Apollo HVLP sprayer. I bought it on impulse at a show ( that taught me a lesson ) The unit simply would not vaporize either varnish or paint and everything had an orange peel finish. I moved over to a conventional compressor and it works well. I have to stick to water soluble finishes as I don't have a proper spray booth. Spraying is fantastic but you need to invest in a total system including extraction and that consumes the £££. Something for my next workshop.

 

[pe2dave]

If it was me, I would make the carcases out of melamine faced chipboard and then you’ve just got the doors and trim to spray.

Its a bit hard to answer your question without some more detail.

If cost is a major factor you would be best looking at the cost of the paint, as paint made for spraying is expensive and it’s a wasteful method of transfer.

If budget is really tight Id say use a gloss roller and paint made for brushing, like Tikkurila.

If you have more budget then consider Morrels AC lacquer and mask.

The ANI160 gun is quite a good HVLP gun on a budget, but you need a decent size compressor to run it.

before sheet material went up in price post covid, I used to find the paint cost for a job could easily be more than the MDF.

Which 160 are you recommending please? Quite a few options.

 

[Chief Sawdust Maker]

Don't go down the blackhole that is spraying
When we set up our workshop 3ish years ago we went down the spraying route, spraying pine and MR MDF, most of the big paint names that are found in the sheds claim that their products can be sprayed, as children we were always told don't believe everything people tell you!!!! We invested in a couple of reasonable quality spray guns not HVLP but standard flow standard pressure we already had a trade grade compressor with good psi and cfm with an unoiled double filtered line dedicated for spraying, we constructed a small spray cupboard with a large extract fan and ducting. I had limited component spraying experience but enough to know how to prepare paint and also set a gun up.
After a couple of months of trying we gave up and now if we want anything sprayed we drop it off at a local contract sprayer, so what went wrong.
Paint is the first issue (primer & top coat) whilst big paint names may claim that their products can be sprayed the make up of the products means they cant be to a high finish, the finish required for a wall is different to that of the side of a smooth cabinet.
The products that the contract sprayer uses are over twice the cost per litre of the usual big paint names
Dust / air contamination overspray requires filtering to remove paint particles, replacement air needs to be clean and particle free, this is not easy in a wood working shop, even damping floors and leaving extractors and filters on over night prior to spraying wasn't successful
Space the actual spraying takes space as you have to be able to get round all side of the items, drying is an ever bigger issue warm dust free and suitable racking.
Time, unless you have a dedicated area for spraying and also drying (we hadn't) it means that your workshop is out of use during the spraying drying period this is further extended by multiple coats being required.
Would we ever spray again? yes we would but only if we could have a dedicated spray and drying area filtered air in filtered air out and used for nothing else.
I am sure many will be along shortly doubting my reasoning, stating that they spray every week in their workshop using paint from a big shed store, great for them I am just giving an example of my experience

Cheers
D

 

[MikeJhn]

The most disappointing thing I ever bought was an Apollo HVLP sprayer. I bought it on impulse at a show ( that taught me a lesson ) The unit simply would not vaporize either varnish or paint and everything had an orange peel finish. I moved over to a conventional compressor and it works well. I have to stick to water soluble finishes as I don't have a proper spray booth. Spraying is fantastic but you need to invest in a total system including extraction and that consumes the £££. Something for my next workshop.

Simply put wrong needle and trying to put the paint on too thick and too fast.

 

[MikeJhn]

HVLP spraying is a totally different ball game to the compressor route. The turbine used in a real HVLP warms the paint and therefore the drying process is very fast, see pic below, once I had reached one end of the door, I could put a second coat on immediately starting at the other end, minimal overspray, nearly all the paint goes on what you are spraying not into the atmosphere.

 

[Spectric]

Think of the finish you actually want, spraying can give a super high gloss finish but do you want this ? I find using quality brushes and decent paint can be more time consuming but gives me a finish I like.

 

[Lefley]

The most disappointing thing I ever bought was an Apollo HVLP sprayer. I bought it on impulse at a show ( that taught me a lesson ) The unit simply would not vaporize either varnish or paint and everything had an orange peel finish. I moved over to a conventional compressor and it works well. I have to stick to water soluble finishes as I don't have a proper spray booth. Spraying is fantastic but you need to invest in a total system including extraction and that consumes the £££. Something for my next workshop.

All hvlp units will do orange peel if paint not thinned properly. The hardest thing to get right with the hvlp is getting your product thinned to the right consistency. Only at that point will it atomize properly and off to car painting you go!

 

[recipio]

All hvlp units will do orange peel if paint not thinned properly. The hardest thing to get right with the hvlp is getting your product thinned to the right consistency. Only at that point will it atomize properly and off to car painting you go!

Yes, I tried various combinations of nozzle and viscosity levels but could not get a reliable finish. Generally manufacturers do not recommend diluting their products over 10% by volume and it's all too easy to thin the paint until it drips and runs. The concept of spraying HVLP in a dusty workshop is simply not on. I think you need a heated and ventilated spray booth.

 

[Lefley]

Don't go down the blackhole that is spraying
When we set up our workshop 3ish years ago we went down the spraying route, spraying pine and MR MDF, most of the big paint names that are found in the sheds claim that their products can be sprayed, as children we were always told don't believe everything people tell you!!!! We invested in a couple of reasonable quality spray guns not HVLP but standard flow standard pressure we already had a trade grade compressor with good psi and cfm with an unoiled double filtered line dedicated for spraying, we constructed a small spray cupboard with a large extract fan and ducting. I had limited component spraying experience but enough to know how to prepare paint and also set a gun up.
After a couple of months of trying we gave up and now if we want anything sprayed we drop it off at a local contract sprayer, so what went wrong.
Paint is the first issue (primer & top coat) whilst big paint names may claim that their products can be sprayed the make up of the products means they cant be to a high finish, the finish required for a wall is different to that of the side of a smooth cabinet.
The products that the contract sprayer uses are over twice the cost per litre of the usual big paint names
Dust / air contamination overspray requires filtering to remove paint particles, replacement air needs to be clean and particle free, this is not easy in a wood working shop, even damping floors and leaving extractors and filters on over night prior to spraying wasn't successful
Space the actual spraying takes space as you have to be able to get round all side of the items, drying is an ever bigger issue warm dust free and suitable racking.
Time, unless you have a dedicated area for spraying and also drying (we hadn't) it means that your workshop is out of use during the spraying drying period this is further extended by multiple coats being required.
Would we ever spray again? yes we would but only if we could have a dedicated spray and drying area filtered air in filtered air out and used for nothing else.
I am sure many will be along shortly doubting my reasoning, stating that they spray every week in their workshop using paint from a big shed store, great for them I am just giving an example of my experience

Cheers
D

You are so right. You can put anything in a spray gun and spray it. But will the finish look good. Most of my spray paints dry too fast to actually brush on. They are formulated specific to spraying. paints that can be brushed or rolled dry a lot slower so the paint can self level, thus getting rid of some brush and roller marks.
A Painter was going to brush out a multi million dollar houses windows, trying to tell the builder it will look as good as sprayed. He talked to me and said is this so. I asked him one question to ask his painter. How many types of sprayers do you have? His answer was none, I don't use them, a waste of time. So now im there taping and papering 30 windows and doors to give the customer a beautiful finsh. I could not imagine what all these would have looked like brushed out with white paint! This is one window unit!

now don't get me going why some silly designer would paint a load of straight grain fir windows and trim. A sham, but not my house. It's like when you buy an old house and scrap 4 layers of paint off the floors and find gorgeous solid hardwood floors.

I am using a graco air assist sprayer for this, allows me to spray at half pressure of normal air sprayer as there are so many different angles to spray all at once.

 

[Lefley]

Yes, I tried various combinations of nozzle and viscosity levels but could not get a reliable finish. Generally manufacturers do not recommend diluting their products over 10% by volume and it's all too easy to thin the paint until it drips and runs. The concept of spraying HVLP in a dusty workshop is simply not on. I think you need a heated and ventilated spray booth.

Yes they are a learning curve for sure, and every new paint you run takes a while to find the sweet mix. And it also needs to be a spray paint not a hardware paint that says can be sprayed. And some finishes just won't work, rember it's picking up paint with warm air and atomizing it, some paint will flash dry so as it hits the door it's already partially dry. Cheaper hvlp units. sometimes don't have the ability to adjust the air / product mix right. My Grace hvlp cost me over $2,000. I can spray a car with it. Factory finish.

 

[RobinBHM]

Which 160 are you recommending please? Quite a few options.

This one from spray guns direct

I spray Morrells AC primer and top coat with it using same tip set up (1.7 from memory)

it struggles to spray the primer easily so could do with a bigger tip. However my solution is to stick the can of paint with lid shut, in a builders bucket then pour in 1 or 2 full kettles of boiling water, let the paint heat up, shake a few tImes.


https://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/product/ani-f160-silver-hps-gravity-spray-gun/

 

[RobinBHM]

@RobinBHM Thanks for your reply and advice. I hadn't realised spray paint was significantly more expensive nor had I heard of Tikkurila. I will investigate them and paint a couple of test pieces with a gloss roller.
Thanks again.
Martin

Morrells AC primer is about £55
Morrells top coat mixed to a colour is about £80

for 5 litres

you could get through 2 cans of each on a set of wardrobes with carcases.

I avoid spraying mdf carcases like the plague - I buy MFC all edge banded from cutwrights.

 

[XTiffy]

My very first spray setup (early 1980s) was an Apollo, when they looked like a flying saucer (and I still have it) and used it very successfully for several years. As others have stressed getting the viscosity is paramount in any spray setup. I went up the chain through small spray guns and bigger guns with pressure pot etc. and full scale spraybooth.
I also bought a Wagner airless (Pro model) to paint two new build cottages using emulsion. I was able to do this without thinning the paint at all. Masking was a pain but the results first class, the whole project in two days. I have also used small rollers to paint kitchen cabinets, where spraying wasn't possible. I used a Dress rail and wooden hangers, attched screw hooks to the non-visible edges and hung them up to dry after painting, much less chance of dust settling on the paint.
In short pros and cons with all finishing materials, if spraying then great attention to a warm dry atmosphere and correct size tip /viscosity combination.
The vast majority of my work was high quality veneered cabinetry, thus mostly semi-matt clear (pre-catt) finishes.