Padded headboard for a double bed

[RogerM]

I'm tackling this from the opposite way round to my normal approach. Usually I post a project once it's completed, and you guys make the usual appreciative noises and some observations which had I thought of in advance I would have incorporated in the design. So here's your chance.

The LOML has put in an order for a new headboard on our 5ft bed. The surround needs to be in cherry to match the fitted furniture in our bedroom, and our current intention is to have a padded and buttoned insert in either velour or upholstery fabric to compliment the bedding.

Anyone done a project like this? How thick should the foam be? We want it fairly thick with buttons that are not just nailed in to the plywood back. Anyone have any pics of one they have done?

 

[TheTiddles]

I think the buttons are normally on a thread which once you have attached the fabric all round are then drawn down into the pad, this makes the pad compressed and stiffer so don't go for too hard a foam or too deep, especially as it's really expensive stuff, I don't understand why.

Just about to do very similar myself so hurry and make the mistakes so I can avoid them please!

Aidan

 

[kmcleod]

My advice would be to find a book on furniture upholstery - the process is the same as for upholstering a sofa or bench seating.

My mother was an upholsterer and i watched her do a few chairs, sofa's etc over the years, unfortunately shes long since retired, and with Alziheimers, otherwise I'd get her to post a response.

from memory if you are doing it properly your starting point would be to draw the pattern for the buttons on the back of the headboard, then you are going to need either 3 or 4 different layers;
- hession,
- hi density foam
- calico
- cover material

Lay the material out - But do not Fasten it,,you will need loose for the folds between buttons !!!

Start in the middle (i think), of the board and put through the first loop for the button but leave it loose,,do the same for the rest working out, once complete, then start tensioning up each while making sure the material folds are even on the face between the buttons to get a daimond effect.

its difficult to describe, however, the internet is your friend here,, !!!

Norm did at least one chair on New Yankee workshop like this, and there must be a few You Tube films showing the process.

Good luck !!!

 

[Recky33]

If you go into most pubs/clubs that have deep buttoned seating backs they are 99% of the time 2" combustion modified high resilience foam stuck down to ply or mdf sheet with one inch holes drilled through the foam for the buttons to sit in, if you go much deeper with the foam it tends to go sort of squishy and over time you loose the pleats, Once you have holes in the foam you can drill for buttons, use either loop backs with string which you staple on the back of the board or prong backs which are like brads from stationary suppliers, these push though the drilled holes and open out over a washer at the back. Problem with buttons is that they need a machine to make them, so best asking your local upholsterer to make what you need from your fabric

hth

Allan

 

[devonwoody]

If you are not yet committed to a headboard design.

I attached a nice veneered ply door to the wall as a headboard.

We left ours varnished with inserted light fittings,

However there is no reason why you could not put a padded effect to the face of the door.

Its handy because the headboard does not move when bed is pulled out.

 

[RogerM]

Thanks guys. This project has been on the back burner for the last 10 days as I get over flu, and we're off to India for 2 weeks from next weekend, so unlikely to get started before beginning of Feb. Initial thoughts are for a cherry frame to match existing wardrobes etc, with 2 large individual foam inserts, 2" thick mounted on a 12mm ply back. Undecided yet about whether to include "buttons" - we want to avoid the "70s" look. I think if we use a firm 2" foam we may not need to include buttons.

DW - Had thought about attaching to the wall, but in our experience this makes the bed move away from the wall as we lean against it, and SWMBO likes to be able to pull the bed out regularly for dusting, turning the mattress etc so we can't anchor it down.

 

[devonwoody]

OK Roger, however it does mean you would not crush the velvet effect when moving the bed from wall because of handling.

Have a good holiday.

 

[JWF]

Roger

We have the tool to make the buttons. If this helpful please pm me and we can sort somthing out. Also SWMBO has a number of books relating to "deep buttoning" that she is willing to copy and send to you if this would be useful.

Enjoy your hols
John

 

[RogerM]

Roger

We have the tool to make the buttons. If this helpful please pm me and we can sort somthing out. Also SWMBO has a number of books relating to "deep buttoning" that she is willing to copy and send to you if this would be useful.

Enjoy your hols
John

That's a very kind offer John. Thanks very much - I may well come back to you on that one. Not much is likely to happen this week, and then we're away for 2 weeks, but expect to get stuck in upon our return when I will have a bit of continuity and the post flu "listlessness" has been sweated out of my system by the Kerala sunshine.

 

[Kev]

Roger

Dont know if it helps but I made a new bed from oak a few years ago and inserted a padded head board into the bed. I used 12mm ply with about 40mm of fairly rigid foam and then faux suede on top. This came out great. One thing to consider, as I found out, if you use to soft a foam it tends to distort to easily when strethcing the fabric over it.

Also, I always find it a bit of a struggle to cut foam to get a nice square edge so always get it cut to size for me but you may have better luck. Can't help you on the buttons I'm afraid other than to say that I thought you had to allow extra material for pleating the fabric once you pull the buttons tight but that may be on softer furnishings.

Hope this helps.