P/T or separate?

[Drroov]

Hi all,

I need advice on the issue above. Namely, whether to buy a second hand, cast iron, heavy duty planer and a benchtop thicknesser (possibly someday upgrading to a cast iron, second hand, hd thicknesser) , or go for a new combination machine in the range of 1000 - 1500 pounds.
I buy only roughsawn timber, domestic hardwoods only, so it is a lot of work for at least the jointer. What me and my partner aim for (having started a bit more than a year ago, working about 30 hours a week) is a fully professional workshop, although now the space we have is rather limited. Therefore my questions are: - will a benchtop thicknesser cope with roughsawn wood, even if I plane both surfaces initially on a planer; - how's with parts, knives (is it possible to buy HSS?) for older machines. And with a combination P/T, especially at this price range, my main worry is sturdiness; how long you can swing these tables until something wears out? How rigid these are, compared to older machinery?

I'd be very grateful for advice from someone who has experience with both of these types, as I have none. A local oldtimer has been doing the machining for us, but it is not always satisfactory, and it is impossible to explain some intricacies of what we aim for...

Many thanks in advance,

Tomasz Segiet

 

[Digit]

I've used both at amateur and pro level and my advise would be same for both instances, separates!

Roy.

 

[wizer]

Welcome Tomasz

The main issue is one of space. If you have room for separates then the regular advice is to go for separates. The only downside with this is that, in this country anyway, thicknessers of up to 12 inches in width are easy to come by. But planers are rare over 9 inches with 6 inch being the most popular. So be aware that you might not get the perfect setup if you go for separates.

I own a Jet 10 inch P/T and I've never once wished I had had separates. It's a fantastic machine and flipping between modes is simple. So don't dismiss the P/T idea. If you are restricted on space or just want a more compact solution, then there are some fantastic machines out there that do both jobs.

 

[big soft moose]

I've used both at amateur and pro level and my advise would be same for both instances, separates!

Roy.

i agree - not least because if one breaks you still have the other.

 

[Digit]

Also with two people in a shop separates mean greater productivity.

Roy.

 

[Drroov]

Thanks for all the responses,

but it seems that, because of space and various other limitations, we would have to go against the advice provided (and incidentally, my inclinations as well) and buy a combo. And now the choice, and the agonising, is between a new Jet 310 and an (used) Hammer a3 31. The specs are similar, but the difference in price large - perhaps for a reason, is Austrian really so much better than Chinese? On this forum I've read both complaints upon Hammer and praises on Jet, which is confusing a bit... If anybody could provide some input, I'd be grateful.

Tomasz.

 

[big soft moose]

I was going to say look on ebay as there is some serious cast iron kit available relatively cheaply including sedgewick, whitehead, and cooksley all of which would be miles better than either of your choices - however ive just noticed where you are, and shipping something that heavy to poland would probably be a killer.

I cant advise between the jet or hammer as ive never used either - i would howecer suggest you check out tom (wizers) thread on the problems he is having with his jet 260

 

[RogerS]

You mention rough sawn timber but not the size.

IMO size of timber is THE driving factor. If all you are working with are small lightweight items then go with a smaller machine. But, if like me, you regularly plane and thickness hardwood 2m+ in length, 25-30cm wide and 10cm thick then you really need to think about as big a cast-iron lump as you can.

My personal preference is for something where you don't have to mess around tilting the tables when you want to thickness and for that reason I bought a Sedgwick MB.

The fences on both the machines you are looking at are weak, I think.

 

[Shrubby]

Hi Tomasz
A European combination would be a good choice
I would look on "Maschinensucher.de" or European Ebay
Good luck
Matt

 

[Chippyjoe]

You mention rough sawn timber but not the size.

IMO size of timber is THE driving factor. If all you are working with are small lightweight items then go with a smaller machine. But, if like me, you regularly plane and thickness hardwood 2m+ in length, 25-30cm wide and 10cm thick then you really need to think about as big a cast-iron lump as you can.

My personal preference is for something where you don't have to mess around tilting the tables when you want to thickness and for that reason I bought a Sedgwick MB.

The fences on both the machines you are looking at are weak, I think.

Roger are you saying that the fences are weak on the Jet and the Hammer?

 

[RogerS]

You mention rough sawn timber but not the size.

IMO size of timber is THE driving factor. If all you are working with are small lightweight items then go with a smaller machine. But, if like me, you regularly plane and thickness hardwood 2m+ in length, 25-30cm wide and 10cm thick then you really need to think about as big a cast-iron lump as you can.

My personal preference is for something where you don't have to mess around tilting the tables when you want to thickness and for that reason I bought a Sedgwick MB.

The fences on both the machines you are looking at are weak, I think.

Roger are you saying that the fences are weak on the Jet and the Hammer?

Compared to the rock solid cast iron huge fence on a Sedgwick then, yes, those bits of aluminium do look a bit lightweight. But it depends on the size of timber you're using. Me...I use mansize :wink:

 

[Chippyjoe]

You mention rough sawn timber but not the size.

IMO size of timber is THE driving factor. If all you are working with are small lightweight items then go with a smaller machine. But, if like me, you regularly plane and thickness hardwood 2m+ in length, 25-30cm wide and 10cm thick then you really need to think about as big a cast-iron lump as you can.

My personal preference is for something where you don't have to mess around tilting the tables when you want to thickness and for that reason I bought a Sedgwick MB.

The fences on both the machines you are looking at are weak, I think.

Roger are you saying that the fences are weak on the Jet and the Hammer?

Compared to the rock solid cast iron huge fence on a Sedgwick then, yes, those bits of aluminium do look a bit lightweight. But it depends on the size of timber you're using. Me...I use mansize :wink:

I wouldn't have thought that your small Sedgewick would handle mansize timber,you need at least a 16 inch planer for that. :lol:

 

[awkwood]

I wouldn't have thought that your small Sedgewick would handle mansize timber,you need at least a 16 inch planer for that.

On a 10" sedgewick P/T, I have planed and thicknessed 15' long 9" x 5" pitch pine beams, for the size of machine it handled it very well, but the timber must be well supported

 

[virtu]

I have been using P/T machine HT410 by http://www.moretens.co.uk/

In a good way its a compromise in between combi and separate as you do not need to convert from mode to other, makes planing much faster and convenient. Also not having the mechanism to convert is having benefit of less places for wear and inaccuracy.