Mrs C
Established Member
Has anyone used Osmo rapid? If so is it as good as the original?
In addition, does the white version do the same as Raw?
Thanks
In addition, does the white version do the same as Raw?
Thanks
Osmo Rapid
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custard
Established Member
I've never used Osmo Rapid so don't know, but for most people the original is quite rapid enough!
Regarding "white" versus Raw. The Raw Osmo is formulated so that it exactly cancels the darkening/yellowing effect of the oil content, which may be relevant for pale timbers. Here's Birch with (from left to right) Osmo 3186, an untreated band, Osmo Raw Transparent Oil, an untreated band, Osmo 3111
In the flesh (versus a rubbish phone photo), the two versions of "white", the 3186 and the 3111, add a significant whitening effect that may not be to everyone's taste. Before using it on a project you should get one of the small Osmo sample sachets and test it on some scrap.
I've run quite a few tests with Osmo Raw, comparing it with the original Osmo and several alternatives such as different versions of water based poly varnish. I won't bore you with the detail but three significant conclusions are as follows,
-if you're using highly figured timber (ie rippled Sycamore) then the white pigment added to Raw to neutralise the oil darkening/yellowing, will also tend to deaden the subtle figuring.
-water based poly (and I've tested quite a few variants) will vary in the amount of darkening/yellowing they impart, from virtually nothing to almost as much as Osmo original
-water based poly varnishes are very good in terms of protecting against water spills and many common household stains, but they're extremely poor at protecting against red wine and fruit juice stains, far worse than either Osmo Raw or Osmo PolyX, and far worse than an oil based poly varnish. I won't use water based poly varnish on dining tables for this reason, and I know several professional cabinet makers who have come to the same conclusion. This limitation of water based poly deserves to be more widely known.
Hope this helps.
Regarding "white" versus Raw. The Raw Osmo is formulated so that it exactly cancels the darkening/yellowing effect of the oil content, which may be relevant for pale timbers. Here's Birch with (from left to right) Osmo 3186, an untreated band, Osmo Raw Transparent Oil, an untreated band, Osmo 3111
In the flesh (versus a rubbish phone photo), the two versions of "white", the 3186 and the 3111, add a significant whitening effect that may not be to everyone's taste. Before using it on a project you should get one of the small Osmo sample sachets and test it on some scrap.
I've run quite a few tests with Osmo Raw, comparing it with the original Osmo and several alternatives such as different versions of water based poly varnish. I won't bore you with the detail but three significant conclusions are as follows,
-if you're using highly figured timber (ie rippled Sycamore) then the white pigment added to Raw to neutralise the oil darkening/yellowing, will also tend to deaden the subtle figuring.
-water based poly (and I've tested quite a few variants) will vary in the amount of darkening/yellowing they impart, from virtually nothing to almost as much as Osmo original
-water based poly varnishes are very good in terms of protecting against water spills and many common household stains, but they're extremely poor at protecting against red wine and fruit juice stains, far worse than either Osmo Raw or Osmo PolyX, and far worse than an oil based poly varnish. I won't use water based poly varnish on dining tables for this reason, and I know several professional cabinet makers who have come to the same conclusion. This limitation of water based poly deserves to be more widely known.
Hope this helps.
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Mrs C
Established Member
Cheers Custard. I think I have been confusing the wax and oil - the raw oil (says it ) is 24 hours dry time which is why I grimaced.
I will go and experiment
Thank you!
I will go and experiment
Thank you!
