Oil finish for Oak (dinner trays)

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Hello all,

I've made some simple dinner trays for my sister as a present, and I want to finish them in oil instead of varnish so that they won't slip around quite so much, what would you use to finish? I have Danish Oil and of course I can always jut use Olive Oil?

TIA, _Dan.

 

[gus3049]

You shouldn't use olive oil as it could well go mouldy after a while. Mineral oil or nut oil. For oak I would use walnut oil. Give it a good soak and wipe off. Put five or so thin wiped coats after that and polish it up. You get a nice satin sheen and a 'food safe' finish - whatever that is.

 

[Fromey]

I don't have a huge amount of experience in this area, but for oil finishes I've been using the following two;

For anything potentially involving food and drink;

http://www.sadolin.co.uk/homeowner/prod ... escription

For everything else;

http://www.sadolin.co.uk/homeowner/prod ... escription

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Cheers gus3049 (or is it Gordon?), I'll go with the walnut oil, will this do?

Thanks as well Fromey, _Dan.

 

[gus3049]

Cheers gus3049 (or is it Gordon?), I'll go with the walnut oil, will this do?

Thanks as well Fromey, _Dan.

Good grief!

I'm sure it will do but its rather expensive and specialised looking. I'm not sure what things are like in the UK at the moment but I get mine from the local supermarket for twice that amount and half the price.

I'm sure you will be able to find some in Tesco. Someone else may know of a better supply.

Gordon, Gus or G, its all the same to me.

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Yeah, good point. I'll have a look in the supermarket!

Cheers Gus, _Dan

 

[OPJ]

Chestnut produce their own Food Safe finish, which you can buy from Axminster among several other retailers. I've also been told that tung oil is rated as food-safe although, it does seem to darken (orange) lighter timbers considerably more than some oils.

 

[Jacob]

Raw linseed oil is the standard. Olive oil OK - doesn't go mouldy in my experience. I've got breadboards and other things in olive oil. No problemo. Used olive oil because it was there. Raw linseed is food safe if pure. Boiled isn't - can even contain lead, but unless for soup bowls etc I expect it would be fine.

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Yeah I've got chopping boards that I've used olive oil on, they still seem fine. But I might try the walnut oil and see what it's like, might even go for the Chestnut stuff.
Thanks for all the replies. _Dan

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

I have only used Tung or Danish oil (danish contains Tung but gives more a gloss then satin/matt finish) for food related products. Danish oil more as it drys quicker.

Never heard of walnut oil, whats it like? Does it change the colour, if so what to?

 

[CHJ]

My choice would be Chestnuts Hard Wax Oil

Gives a 'drier' finish and gloss level easily controlled by number of coats.

I would be cautious about using any oils that don't 'dry off' or are slow to dry if the trays are to be placed on a markable surface or used as TV trays against peoples clothing.

 

[Shane]

Whichever oil you use, I bet they'll still end up with black water marks on them

 

[gus3049]

As Chas says, the important thing is that the oil dries off completely. In my experience Walnut oil does this and olive oil doesn't. My experience however, is not that wide. I always use the oil as it cheap out here. I have had no problems with water marks at all as it dries hard.

 

[Terry Smart]

Can I just check in on this..?

I'd assume a dinner tray to be something you put on your lap and then put a plated meal on, not something you eat off directly. Am I wrong?
If not, then the food safety aspect of it is a red herring and I'd agree with Chas's suggestion for durability and cleaning up.

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Hi, cheers for all the replies folks.

Yeah, it just has to be durable, I never asked for anything that needed to be food safe, but obviously this would be a bonus as it 'could' come into contact with food, depending on how messy an eater they are! But yeah, that wouldn't really matter as they're not going to get any ill effects just from eating a few things off it. I originally plumped for an oil finish as I thought that they wouldn't give a gloss finish, I didn't really want a gloss finish as this would mean less friction, therefore the plates would slide about, but this again doesn't really matter as the trays have a lip on them. I'll go with chestnut, as I've never used their products and have always heard things about them.

Thanks again_Dan.

 

[Shane]

My choice would be Chestnuts Hard Wax Oil

Gives a 'drier' finish and gloss level easily controlled by number of coats.

I have used it on my ABW coffee table, and I am very happy with the finish, but please be aware that it is susceptible to cup/water marks, ok it may not go right through and cause the tannic acid to blacken, but it will definately give the satin sheen matt patches. Bottom line is if you want a properly hard finish than oil isn't always the best way, but if you are happy with what they offer then no probs, personally I'd use a matt or satin waterbased finish like dulux diamond glaze or similar. I have in the past used teak oil to liven the grain, then diamond glaze over the top once it's dried.

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

Went for the Chestnut Hard Wax Oil in the end, what do you guys buff it with; Is it like the Fiddes type of softer wax where you use a stiff brush? Or is it a soft pad?

Cheers _Dan.

 

[CHJ]

I just wipe it on with lint free cloth or brush on (thin coat) don't leave surplus pools on surface after a few minutes.
I leave 'till dry to touch before applying any extra coats.

Don't think you will need to finish buff for your trays, just may need to remove any raised grain or dust nibs after first coat.

Try it on a scrap piece first.

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

I just wipe it on with lint free cloth or brush on (thin coat) don't leave surplus pools on surface after a few minutes.
I leave 'till dry to touch before applying any extra coats.

Don't think you will need to finish buff for your trays, just may need to remove any raised grain or dust nibs after first coat.

Try it on a scrap piece first.

Cheers CHJ, very swift! I've already applied 2 coats, no raised grain after the first one, so no need to de-nib. I'll just give it a once over with a soft cloth then. Cheers mate. _Dan

 

[Einari Rystykaemmen]

My choice would be Chestnuts Hard Wax Oil

Gives a 'drier' finish and gloss level easily controlled by number of coats.

Another vote for Chestnuts Hard Wax Oil.

I consider it for my WIP bookshelf also. Need to make some test pieces first before final decision...