Offcentre,rectangular,curved wing bowl type thingy.

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johnny.t.

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Another day at home today, so I thought I'd try someting a bit more tricky :?
Its sycamore, 6" long finished in hard wax.Amazingly it only bit me once on the joint of my left index finger.


Comments/criticsms much appreciated

JT
 
Nice one Johnny... 'only bit me once' :p :p :p :p

Really like what you've done on the top, with the 'circles' being clearly defined.. thats cool 8)

Difficult to describe here I guess, but how did you find doing it ? ...
its something I would like to try, but havent got around to yet...

Looks like you've done a great job with that particular bit of Syc' ..
it looks teriffic ! 8) 8) :p :p :p
 
Spot on JT. =D> =D> Still a bit chunky, but that will be sorted with practice. Quite amazing how quickly your moving forward with your turning.
 
You're really jumping in the deep end aren't you. :lol: Whatever happened to T lights and weedpots?

As Tam said would look better a bit thinner but you have achieved a good shape and finish. By no means easy to do but again you have jumped another hurdle successfully

Pete
 
Some people just don't know that those things are too difficult do they Pete, :roll: very effective capturing of the face figuring johnny =D> .
 
Thanks everyone, I really don't think I would have dared to go any thinner on the wings, they are an even 5mm thick across and less than 4mm in the bottom of the circles. I think the pics tend to make things look a bit thicker, especially when I take them outside in natural light on such a pale coloured wood.

Tam,how thick would you think it was ok to go on things like this? I just found that those wings looked fragile enough whirling round at high speed.Maybe I need to develop a bit more trust in the strength of wood ?:)

All in all I'm fairly happy with it and it came out pretty much to plan(which is always good), the only thing i would change, would be to do the offset a little further(about 1/2") to make the difference in height from one end to the other more pronounced.

Jenx":n4m1svr6 said:
Difficult to describe here I guess, but how did you find doing it ? ...
It was fun Jenx, just did it carefully and kept the tools really sharp. The under side of the wings had to be hand sanded but then being careful with sharp tools leaves a fairly 'tidy' surface so that wasn't too bad. Dive in and have a go, the worst that can happen is you waste a bit of wood or bleed a bit when the corners get you :lol:

Cheers JT
 
Evenin' JT.

Not for me to say how thick these wings should be :roll: , what I do with most things is, if it looks right it is right. I don't use many rules other than the 1/3 - 2/3, or 2/5 - 3/5. All my other bits are judged by eye, although I do a lot of drawings first. (Read scribbles). If you do that at least you get some idea of where you intend going. It may change into the job, but that is your prerogative. 8)

One I did this afternoon after finishing a little copy job for a guy who is restoring a piece of furniture. . 205mm long x 120mm wide, made from a half Laburnum log, left the bark on the two long edges. Wings go from 5mm - 4mm. There is no foot on it, it sits on the round bowl and the corners of the long wing tips.



It has only had one coat of oil so don't look too good a finish as yet.

PS - Not trying to show off JT, just how I do mine. A lot may not like my idea of style. But HEY! it would be a boring world if we where all the same.
 
Lovely looking piece JT :D
and from you Tam. :shock:
Would be nice to see more of your work Tam,as from the few pieces you have put up they have all been stunning pieces :D
 
There will be some more soon Paul, I've got a few being finished indoors. I'm trying to share my time between my allotment and the turning just now. I'm afraid the allotment is winning by a little. :cry:
 
Tam,
I wasn't asking you how thick my wings should be, I was asking how thick you think it would be ok to go, that is before they go flying past my ears at speed! :lol: My point was I felt they were as thin as I dared go and was interested in your thoughts on this (although i'm happy with the way it looks and I'm fairly certain I would have stopped around this thickness anyway).

No worries of me thinking your showing off with that piece :) Its really nice and its always good to see work of that caliber 8) I'm with Paul on that and would love to see more of your stuff(especially after seeing this example)

Cheers JT
 
Sorry Johnny, read that wrong. I would only go as thin as you feel confident in going. There are so many variables when you stick a piece of wood on the lathe and try something like this. Experience, ability, type of wood, (some turn thin better than others), sharpness of tools, and so on. I think that as these bowls are mainly done for effect, you should turn as thin as you can, and still keep it in one piece. Only you can decide when to stop.

I would say to anyone, if there is any doubt when trying this type of work, then you should think twice. The trouble is that when turning thin, the wood tends to shatter, rather than just break. You can end up with a few pieces flying rather than just one if it goes wrong.

At the same time is is quite exciting when your ideas come to fruition, and you have the finished item in front of you.

PS - When you want to cut the wings thin, draw the silhouette of the shape you want on the side of the blank, then begin cutting from the tip. Slowly work in towards the bowl, cutting and sanding in stages as you go. That way the bulk of wood left will support the piece you are working on. That is how I did the one I posted.
 
One thing you can do if a wing is starting to flex too much or vibrating, is to hot melt glue a suitably shaped stiffening piece of scrap on the finished side whilst you clean up the other.

Could be worth the effort of careful removal of the brace and a little extra spot hand sanding.
 
TEP":7pwd7hit said:
At the same time is is quite exciting when your ideas come to fruition, and you have the finished item in front of you.

Not having been doing this very long at all, I'm lucky enough to get that feeling quite often, only trouble is with gradual improving,I look at the things I made a couple of months ago and they look awful to me now, where at the time I thought they were great :lol:

The other thing I would like to ask you Tam is how you got the final chuck grip on the piece you posted?Did you open it up inside the bowl then tidy it up afterwards? Or is there something I'm not getting. On mine I kept a chucking point on the top while I finished cutting the wings and base with it mounted in the top,the burn line around the bottom is really done for mounting in the chuck which I then used while I finished the bowl. This all worked great but leaves me stuck with a widish base that fits the chuck. :?

cheers JT
 
Hi Johnny.

Make a MDF plate with a spigot that fits your chuck, make one that just fits your lathe that way you can use it for all your flat rimmed bowls. Glue some non slip mat to the face. I use that rubber mesh type stuff you can buy at caravan sales places.

When you make the spigot on the blank use the tip of a skew or parting tool and mark a dimple in the centre of the spigot. Fit into the chuck and turn the bowl.

Then fit your MDF plate, check it is running true. Place the bowl top down on the plate, bring up the tail stock revolving centre and place tip into the dimple you marked at the beginning.

You can now gently work away shaping the base, remembering where your internal shape is. :lol: . What I try to do is use a draw cut rather than approaching the wood from the side, that way you are effectively pressing the work onto the plate. This is how you also remove the spigot by taking away the wood until you are left with a small stub cone shape. I get mine down to about 15mm at the centre tapering down to about 5mm at the work. Sand the work, remove and use a small chisel to remove the stub and sand.

Because the one I did was off centre, and the inside was shaped like 2/3 of a ball I used a piece of wood in the chuck turned down with a rounded nose so I could push the the bowl over it. Brought up the tail stock, shaped the outer, removed the tail stock for the stub and prayed. It only moved once, but I got it back on centre to finish. :lol:

One other way is to use a jam chuck, with these you should make sure you leave a parallel section just around the rim of the bowl part, say about 5 - 6mm. Cut a shoulder on the jam chuck to which you push the bowl onto. Use the tail stock, then remove for the last few cuts.
 
Tam, that makes a lot of sense,I will try that.I can see that the dimple to mark the centre of the back of the spigot makes all the difference,even for other methods(I have made a doughnut chuck but wasn't to keen on it as it was a pig to line up, had I have marked the centre and used the tailstock for alignment purposes it would be easy #-o ).Hate it when I miss the obvious :lol:

thankyou for all help :D :D

cheers JT
 
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