Oak faced MDF

[CaptainSawdust]

Very sorry if this has been posted before- if it has please can someone direct me there, but I'm looking for advice on finishing Oak faced MDF. Would it stand up to a simple water based poly?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[katellwood]

I use Osmo, usually in tandem with solid oak (frame and panel etc) never had a problem

With a waterbased finish you will need to raise the grain first and stay away from wire wool for cutting back.

 

[ColeyS1]

I use Osmo, usually in tandem with solid oak (frame and panel etc) never had a problem

With a waterbased finish you will need to raise the grain first and stay away from wire wool for cutting back.

Daft question but does the oak veneer look the same colour as the solid oak when osmo'd ? Years ago I made some cupboard doors from solid oak and used mdf for the panels. I used Danish oil and the mdf looked noticibly different. I think osmo make a 'door oil' when is specifically designed for veneered mdf. From memory I think it's made to not penetrate quite as deep.

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[ColeyS1]

Very sorry if this has been posted before- if it has please can someone direct me there, but I'm looking for advice on finishing Oak faced MDF. Would it stand up to a simple water based poly?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

I've done quite a bit of veneered stuff lately with Ronseal waterbased and am really pleased with the results.

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[katellwood]

I use Osmo, usually in tandem with solid oak (frame and panel etc) never had a problem

With a waterbased finish you will need to raise the grain first and stay away from wire wool for cutting back.

Daft question but does the oak veneer look the same colour as the solid oak when osmo'd ? Years ago I made some cupboard doors from solid oak and used mdf for the panels. I used Danish oil and the mdf looked noticibly different. I think osmo make a 'door oil' when is specifically designed for veneered mdf. From memory I think it's made to not penetrate quite as deep.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I've never noticed any difference I mainly use veneered MDF in areas where the edge is not exposed (6mm for shaker door panels, 19mm for risers in closed string staircases etc). I apply is the same manner as well, i.e. first coat flood the surface, allow to soak then after approx 20 mins polish off (and i mean polish not just take off the excess). second coat after a slight denib it is applied more sparingly again left and polished off. After 24hrs I give it another good polish, never had a problem and the finish on both veneered and solid appears and feels very similar if not the same.

 

[MikeG.]

The only time I've noticed a difference between veneered oak and the solidwood frame around it is if the solid wood is European oak, and the veneer is AWO. I don't know, but I suspect that most veneered ply & MDF is AWO.

 

[ColeyS1]

It seems clear I need to give osmo a go on veneered mdf- thanks guys.

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[Geoff_S]

I have done a bit of oak veneered MDF and tried different finishes.

My favourite is coating with sanding sealer, cutting back with 320 grit and then waxing. I use a very fine wire wool to apply the wax and a car polisher
to shine it up. Mind you, only for pieces that are not going to be in danger of getting wet. The last thing I did was a wardrobe with solid AWO frames and AWO veneered panels.

I like this finish because there are absolutely no brush marks! The other advantage is that if it does get marked or even stained, you can just cut the mark back and
polish it out.

It's got a nice smell as well.

 

[Mrs C]

I use Osmo, usually in tandem with solid oak (frame and panel etc) never had a problem

Do you prep the veneer in any way first or just put the Osmo straight on?

Thanks

 

[CaptainSawdust]

Thanks very much for the advice everyone. Really appreciated.

 

[custard]

I have done a bit of oak veneered MDF and tried different finishes.

My favourite is coating with sanding sealer, cutting back with 320 grit and then waxing. I use a very fine wire wool to apply the wax

Oak and wire wool don't mix, over time tiny fragments of the wire wool can settle in the Oak's pores which risks black stains developing. 3M make a wire wool substitute that's non ferrous, that's a better choice for Oak or other tannin rich timbers.

 

[Geoff_S]

I have done a bit of oak veneered MDF and tried different finishes.

My favourite is coating with sanding sealer, cutting back with 320 grit and then waxing. I use a very fine wire wool to apply the wax

Oak and wire wool don't mix, over time tiny fragments of the wire wool can settle in the Oak's pores which risks black stains developing. 3M make a wire wool substitute that's non ferrous, that's a better choice for Oak or other tannin rich timbers.

That's interesting. I've done it for years now and never had that problem. Maybe it's because I use the sanding sealer first?

Anyway, no point in finding it to be a problem on future projects. I will check out the 3M stuff. Thanks