Progress on the dining table,
1, glued and sanded,with supports in place.
2, Legs and braces in place but not fixed,awaiting centre rail.
3, From the other end
Have joined the boards with one row of No20 (6 each joint) biscuits and glued.
The ledges will be glued,screwed and plugged.( probably with too many screws, but thats the way Ive always worked, I hope it never moves.
The different grain orientation of the top to the ledges could see a differential movement of a number of mm over the seasons. In this design I'd expect you'll see the top either cup or bow, depending on if it wants to be narrower or wider than the ledge. I'd be elongating the screw holes in the ledge, and then omitting the glue. You then have a floating top you can remove if you ever want to move the table. If you really want to glue I'd keep it on the middle 20cm of the ledge only.
Thank you Fitzroy and StuartPaul for your observations and recomendations they have made me think a bit about this table. I think I will take your advice and not glue it but just use the screws and give it a few months or so and see what it looks like so at least I can remove the top without damage. I am reasonably new to furniture making having recently retired from 21 years in kitchen fitting(hence all the screws!) and have decided to make this table as I have now got the time, hopefully it wont dent my enthusiasm.
I made a desk earlier in the year. It has a similar structure to your table. I think I overdid the elongation of the holes but it gives you the idea. Also I learnt no more hairpin legs, the ring every time the desk is knocked.