Oak Chest

[Mr Ed]

Just finished this today; its an oak chest for keeping my sons toys away from the nibbling teeth of a border terrier puppy!

Its made using the CMT Sommerfeld raised panel set. The corners are biscuit jointed. Its not exactly fine cabinetmaking, but its a very reliable and relatively quick way of making chests and boxes.

Just to prove my workshop is not always like an operating theatre, here is a shot just as I finished it.

Cheers, Ed

 

[orangetlh]

Looks great Ed, very crisp. Is it going to go on legs or castors, or sit as it it is?

 

[Mr Ed]

Looks great Ed, very crisp. Is it going to go on legs or castors, or sit as it it is?

Well I'll probably take it off the milk crate, but other than that, no that's it. :lol:

Cheers, Ed

 

[OPJ]

Very tidy work, Ed.

Have you considered adding a chain, or something to stop the lid slamming down or swinging back?

 

[Mr Ed]

Have you considered adding a chain, or something to stop the lid slamming down or swinging back?

Yes I was going to add something like a friction stay so the lid doesn't slam shut. I'll browse around a bit to try and find one that's right for the job. Toughens kids up a bit anyway to have a few slammed fingers :lol:

Cheers, Ed

 

[Paul Chapman]

Very nice, Ed.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Waka]

Those were the days when I could have made toy boxes for my girls but I was always away, not even found time to do one for the grand children.

Lovely project Ed, like it a lot, is it all made of solid oak?

 

[Mr Ed]

Lovely project Ed, like it a lot, is it all made of solid oak?

It is all solid oak, apart from the bottom which is 18mm birch ply. I have considered using the same rail and stile profiles but going with a veneered MDF panel instead of the raised panel, as it does use quite a bit of timber. The benefit of the solid raised panel though is it gives the whole thing a satisfyingly solid feel to it.

Cheers, Ed

 

[wizer]

Very nice Ed. I should be ashamed of myself, I started my daughter's toybox months ago

 

[TrimTheKing]

Very nice Ed, I like it a lot. A friend of mine has asked for a matching pair for his twins but I was struggling with thoughts on constrution, was getting in too deep thinking about DT's etc, but that looks like a very good way to make it quite quickly but also with good strength.

Cheers

Mark

 

[Mr Ed]

Very nice Ed. I should be ashamed of myself, I started my daughter's toybox months ago

Just get on with it man. It took me 2 days last weekend and a couple of hours today to get this done - you just have to dig in and get on with it.

(meant as a motivational speech in the nicest possible way )

Cheers, Ed

 

[wizer]

I'm all out of excuses :duno:

Oh I know, I didn't like the oak I was using, it was a bit rustic. It's been shelved til I can get some other project finished. She'll be able to store her university stuff in there... :roll: :wink:

 

[Rich]

Very Very nice Ed, and that's how a well used workshop SHOULD look like.

Rich.

 

[superunknown]

Hi, thats a great looking toy box. Love the workshop too.

 

[woodbloke]

Have you considered adding a chain, or something to stop the lid slamming down or swinging back?

Yes I was going to add something like a friction stay so the lid doesn't slam shut. I'll browse around a bit to try and find one that's right for the job. Toughens kids up a bit anyway to have a few slammed fingers :lol:

Cheers, Ed

Great project Ed, like it a lot. I'd fit a stay though...just think of all the extra hours that you could spend in the 'shop that you needn't have spent at A&E :wink: - Rob

Edit - note to self...must make one of them doohicky thingies for the K419 ...not got around tuit yet.

 

[motownmartin]

Nice chest Ed, I was going to do one of these myself but some of the thicker wood I had a bit of woodworm and even some splits and shakes after I had dimensioned the legs and short rails, I had designed it with 45mm thick legs and rails but looking at your design I might re-draw it, what thickness wood did you use.

 

[Mr Ed]

Hi Martin

Ideally you would do it all with 20mm; rails, stiles and panels. I think the rail and stile bits can accommodate material from 19mm to 22mm or something like that.

I used 20mm for the rails and stiles and some 17mm for the panels, purely because I had some oak from some recycled library shelves to use up. If you do go with thinner panel it means you don't use the back cutter portion of the panel raising bit. It means the inside face of the panel is not flush with the rails/stiles but I cant see that as much of an issue personally.

Cheers, Ed

 

[motownmartin]

Thanks Ed, one more question, did you mitre the corners or another method

 

[Mattty]

8) Thats lovely Ed. Your very skilled =D>

 

[Mr Ed]

Thanks Ed, one more question, did you mitre the corners or another method

No the corners are just butt joints reinforced with biscuits. What I do is make the main panels with stiles 75mm thick and then reduce them to 55mm for the end panels, thereby giving the appearance of a symmetrical corner post. If you're careful with it, the joint pretty much disappears.

Cheers, Ed