NUtool CH10 Pillar Drill spares

[Jos7000]

Hello, I've seen a few different threads for the Nutool CH10 Pillar drill and thought rather than hijack one of those, I'd create a new post with all the information I've gathered.
The problem with all the videos and how to's is, nobody lists actual numbers and sizes, so you have to dismantle your drill and measure everything before waiting for parts to arrive, all whilst hoping you don't lose all the bits before you reassemble the thing.
So for future reference here are some of the common bits a Nutool CH10 requires.

2 x 12mm I.D. 32mm O.D. 10mm wide bearings for the spindle.
2 x 17mm I.D. 40mm O.D 12mm wide bearings for the pulley end.
1 x Z section V belt commonly referred to as Z27.5 (10 x 6 x 699 mm or 27.5 inches long in old money)
1 x (Jacobs Taper) JT33 Chuck, capacity is for you to decide.
This is a standard push fit.

I hope this helps anyone still lucky enough to own or able to buy one of these.

 

[Jos7000]

Update a B16 chuck is the original fitment (I put my glasses back on) and oddly these are much cheaper to buy, I've just acquired a 1-16mm B16 keyless chuck for about £17. The JT ones were about double the price.

 

[RichardG]

Update a B16 chuck is the original fitment (I put my glasses back on) and oddly these are much cheaper to buy, I've just acquired a 1-16mm B16 keyless chuck for about £17. The JT ones were about double the price.

How does the new Chuck look? I need a new one and couldn’t decide on which one to get. I was probably going to get a mMyford one which is £25 for one on a mt2 but that uses a key.

 

[Jos7000]

Hi Richard, I've only just ordered it, but I'm hoping it looks similar to this one, save for the capacity which is a bit different.
I was given this drill a few years ago, probably because the run out was so extreme. If I want to drill a 10mm hole I could use an 8mm bit. It's nigh on impossible to drill where I want. So I finally decided to replace everything consumable and just hope the spindle isn't jiggered, although on a flat edge it looks to be true. I cleaned the entire thing a few days ago and repainted the rusty bits. I noticed there's very neat writing at the Base that signifies it has at one point been used in a school workshop.
I may revert to a keyed chuck in future, I presume they clamp tighter, but it will be nice not having to hunt for a key or risk scraping my knuckles if said key slips.

 

[Jos7000]

I should also add that an MT2 refers to the tapered shank, that this drill doesn't use and you won't be needing it, just the chuck. (might save you some money)

 

[pcb1962]

So for future reference here are some of the common bits a Nutool CH10 requires.

2 x 12mm I.D. 32mm O.D. 10mm wide bearings for the spindle.
2 x 17mm I.D. 40mm O.D 12mm wide bearings for the pulley end.

You need to give the actual code that is stamped on the bearing, a 12x32x10 bearing comes in a lot of different types

 

[Jos7000]

A deep groove ball bearing, I have managed to order these incredibly easily without a code, as bearing manufacturers use sizes to sell them. You get to choose if you want open, metal cased or rubber sealed ones and choose your price point, I opted for rubber sealed to keep out dust, but the original bearings were part open.

For people who want codes, they can strip their own machines, but as I already said, I ordered by size.

 

[Jos7000]

I beg to differ.
As an example, if I search for the main bearing for my washing machine by part number, the results are usually in the £30-50 range, if I instead measure and search by size, the price drops to about £7.50 in either case I get to fix the machine, I've done this, I also changed the dampers to an entirely different shape/model as the ones specific to my machine were over £100 a pair
I'd like to believe that machine manufacturers design by size, not by part number.
Regardless of a number stamped or printed on a bearing, the size of that bearing is not debatable and I doubt any retailer has a shelf of bearings specifically for a drill press that ceased manufacture decades ago.
Each to their own, I prefer the common sense, get exactly what I want, at a reasonable price approach and have yet to be caught out.

 

[pcb1962]

Well, clearly you know best.
And the bearing manufacturers who have evolved an extremely comprehensive set of codes to describe their bearings are just wasting their time because all anyone needs is 'a deep groove ball bearing'.

 

[Jos7000]

Ha ha, imagine then that the last person who fitted the bearings fitted the wrong type according to a number on the bearing casing and you then go and buy the same wrong bearings.
I did mention further up that the run out is extreme and have no desire to replicate that. I've measured the bearings and the spindle, so I'm guaranteed to get a good fit, if the old bearings were fitted in error, I have no desire to give that information here.
If you think I'm so wildly wrong, where is your post listing the correct parts?
If I'd found that, I wouldn't have started this thread, kindly point me in the right direction.

 

[Westwood]

Interesting thread. I bought a CH10 at a local auction for £25 and it needs some TLC so this will help me when I get round to restoring it

 

[Jos7000]

By all accounts they're not the best, but they were made in the UK and they do the job.
It's taken me about eight years to get round to fettling mine, lack of information was my block, but as I now own the tools to complete the job and require a working pillar drill for an upcoming project I decided I may as well create the information for others.
There's a brutal video on YouTube which is helpful, alas it doesn't provide information on the parts replaced and my drill didn't quite cone apart like theirs did, I required a slide hammer to extract two of the bearings, but it was all fun.

 

[Jos7000]

Just thought I'd update you, because it's annoying when people don't.
My keyless chuck arrived a few weeks back and it's great, tightens easily and accepts all my bits. The only drawback (not too bad) is the length/height.
To allow for an extra bezel to grip whilst tightening, it's a bit longer, which reduces the maximum amount of travel.
Not an issue as I just move the adjustable table out of the way and use the base for larger items.

 

[ColinDeVelen]

I have recently acquired one of these, and I am in need of the constant force spring that goes under the silver cover on the left of the tool. But I can't fine any spare part list or diagram. Has anyone had any experiencing finding / ordering one of these, or have any more easily available alternative that I could use?
The drill I had looked like it had the magazine spring from a nailer wedged in, and it did not work well

 

[Sandyn]

This??

 

[Ttrees]

I may revert to a keyed chuck in future, I presume they clamp tighter, but it will be nice not having to hunt for a key or risk scraping my knuckles if said key slips.

Chuck key won't slip if you use it in your left hand!
Funny how the pros never figured that out/made themselves do this.
I guess they never had to deal with something like the one I have.

Bought a "return spring" off ebay, there were a lot of sizes available.
This replacement doesn't have quite the same strength as the original which got a wee while out of after coiling the snapped end.
I reckon I could have selected a better spring as there is likely some allowance.
Basically those raised bits (thought there were three before looking)
of the casting which isn't likely as deep as the engagement slots in the cup.

Left hand for the chuck key, and I will say this until someone can suggest a way of holding it quite as good in the right hand.
Anyones methods on the tube I've seen doesn't look suitable for my chuck.

Now you could make a gib and just forget about having any return ability in favour for more rigidity
but still seems to me, nothing is guaranteed in terms of accuracy,
and is a big rabbit hole of expense should one want to go chasing tolerances.

Seen mixed reviews of those chucks, and I'd have to guess there allright,
provided one doesn't mind an extra inch or whatever.
Some get sore hands from them, should it decide it wants to keep ahold of the bit!
A feature on my dad's SIP drill is a spring loaded chuck hole location pin, inside the pin.

I'd love to see if I could improve mine further, but a money pit buying bearings,
a dial indicator (and stand, cuz you might as well)
and only then start looking into things with any surety, (a long bit is all I've got)
Hard to figure out what the problem is otherwise...
Should it simply be a matter of trial and error, knocking out and inserting MT's,
and no more money needed.Quite smooth it is.
I have no money to be throwing away on toys which serve little purpose to a woodworker
like myself, not saying others might not use theirs sensibly, but not for what i do.
Would rather buy some CMT forstner bits with the money.