Numbers Check - Carter Stabilizer

[woodbrains]

Hello,

"Wood absorbs more heat than it generates" wow, he does talk tripe, that Snodgrass fellow. Don't think I believe a word he says.

The blade should remain straight ahead, the wood turns the curves. Simples. The only explanation for the device I can see is, he made them and has to sell them somehow, with impressive looking, though essentially useless bandsaw tricks.

Mike.

 

[woodpig]

I looked at buying the guides last year, but could not justify the cost for the few boxes I make.

They aren't too difficult to make as they only have a few parts. This is mine.

You could probably get away with a block of hardwood for the body rather than alloy if it helps.

 

[NazNomad]

... "Wood absorbs more heat than it generates" ...

Obviously he's never seen a bonfire. :-D

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

The limiting factor for the tightness of a curve is the width of the sawblade and its kerf. It cannot do a curve any tighter than the space it cuts for its own width to turn in, irrespective of the guides. I want my guides to keep the blade facing forward, so I can guide the work through in a predictable way, following my pencil lines or whatever. If the blade is going to twist around then how do I predict where the teeth are going to be, so I can feed the pencil line through it. It is totally the opposite of a stabiliser, in fact. The best way I know to guide narrow blades, is a brass plate in the table insert hole. A short saw kerf allows the back of the blade to settle into it and gives side support. Bras is a fairly good bearing for the steel. Steve's mdf solution makes sense to me, too, though I've not tried it.

Mike.

 

[woodpig]

Perhaps the only way to tell if it works or not is a consensus of actual users. Theorising by anyone who hasn't used one doesn't mean much, even Einstein got stuff wrong. Malcolm is the only user on here so far and I trust his experience with the tool.

I don't like the guides on some of the record bandsaws including my BS300E. I expect the Carter stabiliser to be a far better option than trying to modify the existing guides but in fairness it would need to be tested. Not all bandsaws are the same so what works well for one may not for another. If I remember correctly Malcolm and Steve have different saws.

Some of these guys seem pretty happy with it.

http://lumberjocks.com/topics/27434

Interesting comment about quick and easy blade changes as well. Not something you think about unless you've used one.

 

[Alexam]

Thinking about the logic of curves. If you have conventional guides that are designed to keep the blade running in a straight line, ( not the only possibility as some may think), if you turn too quickly, the blade will create heat and burn the timber and could possibly cause the blade to break or drift off course. The only advantage of the Carter Stabilizer is that it lets the blade pivot from the back of the blade, so tighter turns are more easily achieved and they stay virticle without burning. Very helpful with a 1/4" blade or less. However, unless you do need to use a smaller blade on a regular basis for even tighter turns, the MDF method of Steve's is the cheapest option, why pay more? However, I have not tried small blades with MDF and never used a 1/16" blade at all, so have no idea if it works as well. Just like Steve has not tried the Stabilizer and can only assume that it may not be as good as his own method, which works well for him.

I like to have the ability not to worry if I am turning (or burning) tightly, so prefer the Stabilizer, but unless you intend to do a lot of this type of work, stick to the MDF side guide stick on's and save your money for other tools or stay with the 1/4" blade which works with your normal guides.

I know what works for me and if anyone wishes to see for themselves, they are welcome to pay a visit. As for changing from the conventional guides to the Stabilizer and back, it's only a matter of practice and really takes no real time to get the accuracy needed.

I know that there are several people using the Carter Stabilizer, but for some reason prefer not to say so. It's a pity as we may be able to help each other as well as people considering buying one.

Malcolm

 

[Steve Maskery]

I don't think I've ever claimed that it is not as good as mine, merely a lot more expensive and unnecessary. It's not the same thing.

I have two Japanese knives in my kitchen. They are a joy to use. But I could still chop my veg just as well with a cheaper knife. They are unnecessary and expensive, but I've never regretted buying them (well, one, the other was a pressie). I love them and wouldn't be without them.

 

[graduate_owner]

The first mate's name was Carter.

Just thought I'd throw in that piece of irrelevant information to lighten up the discussion.


K

 

[Alexam]

I don't think I've ever claimed that it is not as good as mine, merely a lot more expensive and unnecessary. It's not the same thing.

I have two Japanese knives in my kitchen. They are a joy to use. But I could still chop my veg just as well with a cheaper knife. They are unnecessary and expensive, but I've never regretted buying them (well, one, the other was a pressie). I love them and wouldn't be without them.

Exactly so Steve, I've never regreted buying the Stabilizer, but for most it is unnecessary.
Malcolm

 

[woodpig]

I know that there are several people using the Carter Stabilizer, but for some reason prefer not to say so. It's a pity as we may be able to help each other as well as people considering buying one.

Malcolm

If you google reviews on both the Stabilizer and Carters standard bearing guides you'll find a lot of folks over the pond that are very happy with their products.
It's just a shame that they are not sold over here.

 

[Alexam]

I know the great following in the USA and I was reading the reviews and looking at the users video's before I purchased.

Over here it's a limited market for those wanting to use smaller blades, but the cost for us adds shipping and import duty to pay, which effectively doubles the price to UK buyers.

 

[Steve Maskery]

With which one could buy...
Darn, I'm not allowed to advertise!

 

[beganasatree]

Hi Steve,Thanks for the reply,I shall give it a try.


Peter.

 

[pops92]

I can now vouch for Malcoms in on the stabilizer as I've had one about a week.
A friend who lives over the pond got me one from a show out there at a reduced price. And as it was sent to me as a gift so there was no import duty plus the package was paid for by a freind.
I have used it with 1/8" 14tpi on my bs300e and it does what it says on the can.
Having not used any other way I cannot comment but this made tighter curves dead easy for me so Iam quite happy.
When I get a chance I will do a thread on the modification as it is slightly different to Malcoms as the bore is 16mm in the stabilizer not 14mm as Malcoms was even though it is the same model he got the Carter RIK2.

 

[Wildman]

I did not realise you could go down as far as an 1/8 on the BS400

The BS400 and most other bandsaws, cannot take lower than a 1/4" blade and even then the setup needs to be very carefully done to prevent the blade's teeth being flattened by side guides,

Steve has been using the 2mm MDF supports for some time very successfully and he has even gone to a 1/16" I believe, just for straight cuts, so some experimentation with such could be satisfactory for many users.

However, with the Carter Stabilizer, blades of between 1/4" and 1/16", (never tried the 1/162 so far), are held by a slotted bearing at the back of the blade and 'sprung loaded' to keep it in place. The benefits are that by only supporting the back edge of the blade, the blade can twist and turn to take much tighter turns on corners. It can also cut perfectly vertically, which is an essential part of woodworking.

As with all bandsaw operations, the setting up of the blade in the Stabilizer to obtain accurtate cutting is paramount and takes a little time to get right.

Unless you really need such tight turns, you could be better off just sticking to the 1/4" blade with the traditional guides, or using the 'SM' technique, which he has proved over a number of years and shown in his excellent videos and it would be at a far lower cost than the Carter Stabilizer. That has to be imported direct from Carter Products in the USA at present, plus taxes, postage and import duty, so it's not cheap and then you have additional blades to buy as well ..................... Tuffsaw of course.

Malcolm

You're welcome to pop over for a look-see if you wish Steve.

I have a 1/8th blade on a dewalt and must say it does wander any close up photos of the said stabiliser so I can see how it actually works then maybe make something similar.

 

[CHJ]

Think the idea is basically a rear thrust bearing with a peripheral groove to match the blade body depth and width, serving both as rear and side support.

 

[marcros]

I did not realise you could go down as far as an 1/8 on the BS400

The BS400 and most other bandsaws, cannot take lower than a 1/4" blade and even then the setup needs to be very carefully done to prevent the blade's teeth being flattened by side guides,

Steve has been using the 2mm MDF supports for some time very successfully and he has even gone to a 1/16" I believe, just for straight cuts, so some experimentation with such could be satisfactory for many users.

However, with the Carter Stabilizer, blades of between 1/4" and 1/16", (never tried the 1/162 so far), are held by a slotted bearing at the back of the blade and 'sprung loaded' to keep it in place. The benefits are that by only supporting the back edge of the blade, the blade can twist and turn to take much tighter turns on corners. It can also cut perfectly vertically, which is an essential part of woodworking.

As with all bandsaw operations, the setting up of the blade in the Stabilizer to obtain accurtate cutting is paramount and takes a little time to get right.

Unless you really need such tight turns, you could be better off just sticking to the 1/4" blade with the traditional guides, or using the 'SM' technique, which he has proved over a number of years and shown in his excellent videos and it would be at a far lower cost than the Carter Stabilizer. That has to be imported direct from Carter Products in the USA at present, plus taxes, postage and import duty, so it's not cheap and then you have additional blades to buy as well ..................... Tuffsaw of course.

Malcolm

You're welcome to pop over for a look-see if you wish Steve.

I have a 1/8th blade on a dewalt and must say it does wander any close up photos of the said stabiliser so I can see how it actually works then maybe make something similar.

post744448.html?hilit=carter%20stabilizer#p744448

also woodpig made one, if you do a search

 

[pops92]

Yeah I have read all the threads on the stabilizer. All I am saying that it does what the demonstrations show and does work good on the bs300e.
But for anyone going down the normal channel to purchase it,it's not worth it.
But like me who got it half the price hey why not. :wink:

 

[Alexam]

Well done pops92, I'm sure you will have fun with it. My original post was wrong with the 14mm, it's the same as yours 16mm and my model is the RIK2 also. If you have any problems, let me know and if you like, you can always pop over here, Loughborough is not so far away.

Just make sure that the blade is running in the correct position on the top wheel under power once it has been 'loaded' onto the guide. The rear adjustment is very fine, as you have no doubt found out and it takes a little time to get it right.

Malcolm

 

[Wildman]

Think the idea is basically a rear thrust bearing with a peripheral groove to match the blade body depth and width, serving both as rear and side support.

Thanks that's the detail I needed, now to set about grinding a groove without cutting the bearing in half, maybe easier to add a couple of external rings to an existing bearing, so steel or something else, thoughts?