Peri
Established Member
I use Freud blades as well. Generally thin-kerf, as my tablesaw is only an 8" 1200w (I think), and they seem to cut much better than standard blades. A 16 tooth blade will rip pretty easily through most stuff
Now happy with the Table saw.
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doctor Bob
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Ripping timber on a fine (ish) blade will dull them fairly quickly.
P.S. Richard's advice on fence position is important.
P.S. Richard's advice on fence position is important.
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Too many teeth as others have said, also these look to be around 5 degrees positive, ripping blades can be 15 degrees to be more aggressive and usually have more clearance on the kerf to blade plate thickness. All these factors will help.
Cheers Peter
Cheers Peter
Lons
Established Member
Hi Artie
My SIP 01332 saw is probably similar is spec to yours 250 blade, 2.2kw motor and it's a good 15 years old at least, I'd need to look up the invoice to check that. I use Freud blades but also have a CMT and my saw eats softwood as if it doesn't exist unless I'm stupid enough to saw wet wood then it's a bit slower, 50 mm+ hardwood as well.
I would never use a blade with more than 24t for ripping and I'm too lazy to change blades unless it's important to get a really good finish so I doubt the current blade is even that sharp now.
Have a look on the internet for information on blades, plenty out there but here's a starter. CHOOSING THE RIGHT TABLE SAW BLADES Your saw certainly shouldn't struggle all being equal.
As an aside I fitted a sub fence to mine to ensure clearance immediately after the cut.
My SIP 01332 saw is probably similar is spec to yours 250 blade, 2.2kw motor and it's a good 15 years old at least, I'd need to look up the invoice to check that. I use Freud blades but also have a CMT and my saw eats softwood as if it doesn't exist unless I'm stupid enough to saw wet wood then it's a bit slower, 50 mm+ hardwood as well.
I would never use a blade with more than 24t for ripping and I'm too lazy to change blades unless it's important to get a really good finish so I doubt the current blade is even that sharp now.
Have a look on the internet for information on blades, plenty out there but here's a starter. CHOOSING THE RIGHT TABLE SAW BLADES Your saw certainly shouldn't struggle all being equal.
As an aside I fitted a sub fence to mine to ensure clearance immediately after the cut.
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artie
Sawdust manufacturer.
Yip same spec, mines a little newer but that's irrelevant.
That's a useful link.
According to it 40 t is ok for ripping maybe not ideal but I don't think would bog the saw down like that.
There's a 24t CMT due next week .
We shall see.
Hi
Try Sheffield industrial saws, good advice and helpful. I purchased a 315mm 48 tooth blade for the table saw and a 305mm 60 tooth with negative rake for the mitre saw. Cost was somewhere around the £150 mark. I am running a schepach saw with 3 HP motor on a 13 amp plug and it will slow if you try to feed too fast and cuts hardwoods easier, I think pine being softer tends to nip the blade.
Try Sheffield industrial saws, good advice and helpful. I purchased a 315mm 48 tooth blade for the table saw and a 305mm 60 tooth with negative rake for the mitre saw. Cost was somewhere around the £150 mark. I am running a schepach saw with 3 HP motor on a 13 amp plug and it will slow if you try to feed too fast and cuts hardwoods easier, I think pine being softer tends to nip the blade.
Lons
Established Member
Artie, I don't know why I wrote SIP blades, I threw that away within days of buying the saw, I use Freud blades. Have edited the post.
I can’t compare with others (eg Freud) as I haven5 used the others but I got a couple of Saxton blades (60 &100 tooth) when I bought my Evolution tablesaw and the blades have had no trouble ripping what I’ve thrown at them. Interestingly (and I know this probably isn’t best thing to do) the 100 tooth ripped 70mm softwood at 2.4 m lengths several times quite happily. The evolution equates to approx 2.4hp so the OP’s machine/blade sounds to be struggling more than my Evolution and 100 tooth and thicker wood
pe2dave
Established Member
I've used them for a while, mainly for multi-saw blades. Own brand, good quality, good service.
I've not had a saw blade from them though.
artie
Sawdust manufacturer.
There's a new blade on the way and a current measuring device.
So while we wait could we speculate, what if the blade is ok?
The capacitor was replaced, could it have been faulty?
If the cap is ok what else could cause loss of power.?
So while we wait could we speculate, what if the blade is ok?
The capacitor was replaced, could it have been faulty?
If the cap is ok what else could cause loss of power.?
Trevanion
Greatest Of All Time
How fresh are the belts that are transmitting the power from the motor to the saw arbour?
SNAP!! lol
artie
Sawdust manufacturer.
The same belt has been on it all the time I've had it, <> 5 years.
It looked good enough when I replaced the shaft recently.
I just checked the input power of my 2hp saw while ripping a bit of wood. I tried to stall the saw, but the wood wasn't thick enough. I only had a bit 40mm thick. I cut at a much higher rate than I normally would.
Ticking over, the saw consumes 370w. Whilst cutting, it was hovering around 1kW but it peaked at 1.8kW. I couldn't feed it fast enough to stall the saw safely. The power meter of this type isn't very good for doing dynamic tests, there's too much lag in the readings. Don't think it gives any real useful information apart from showing it's taking a bit more than the rated motor power......and kept running.
Ticking over, the saw consumes 370w. Whilst cutting, it was hovering around 1kW but it peaked at 1.8kW. I couldn't feed it fast enough to stall the saw safely. The power meter of this type isn't very good for doing dynamic tests, there's too much lag in the readings. Don't think it gives any real useful information apart from showing it's taking a bit more than the rated motor power......and kept running.
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I remember a conversation with a machine dealer a couple of years ago. He sold a Sedgwick table saw to a customer and within a year the customer called to say they wanted to upgrade to a more powerful machine. The dealer thought the Sedgwick was more than powerful enough for the customers needs but hey if he needs a new saw.....
When they picked up the Sedwick for part exchange they were shocked to find it had the original blade but but half the teeth missing and two out of the three drive belts snapped
When they picked up the Sedwick for part exchange they were shocked to find it had the original blade but but half the teeth missing and two out of the three drive belts snapped
doctor Bob
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When they picked up the Sedwick for part exchange they were shocked to find it had the original blade but but half the teeth missing and two out of the three drive belts snapped
Definately not aimed at anyone but........
I'm amazed by the "it's not to bad" attitude to saw blade sharpness. I get through at least 3-4 blades a week, if my thumb doesn't catch properly on a blade, it's blunt, quality of cut is everything. Dull blades cause tearout, chipping on MFC, bows and wobble cuts, un wanted angles, burns, just swap it early.
Trevanion
Greatest Of All Time
The same goes with any machine that has a consumable part, people will use bandsaw blades, jigsaw blades, planer knives, cutters and even sanding belts way beyond their effective life expectancy and then act shocked when something breaks.
Other sanity checks, unlikely, but.....:-
Have you monitored the voltage at the saw whilst running under load.
Check for hot spots along the cable and at 16A connector to see if power is being dissipated somewhere else.
Does the blade run 'freely' when turned by hand and immediately after stopping. Nothing seized or tight under load.
What type of overload protection is on the saw? it may be faulty, so partially removing drive to the motor.
Have you monitored the voltage at the saw whilst running under load.
Check for hot spots along the cable and at 16A connector to see if power is being dissipated somewhere else.
Does the blade run 'freely' when turned by hand and immediately after stopping. Nothing seized or tight under load.
What type of overload protection is on the saw? it may be faulty, so partially removing drive to the motor.
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