Not Very Good Tray

[Andy Kev.]

I've put this up because I thought it might be of interest as an example of learning in progress. I decided to make a tray, to my own design, from some offcuts and perhaps got a bit over-ambitious by angling the ends. The first attempt was such a mess that I scrapped it. This is the second, not really acceptable, version. It's OK in the sense that it will function as a tray but more likely one for taking potted plants into the garden as opposed to serving up tea on the patio.

The chief problem was, naturally, the dovetails. I found that the ones which I marked with a knife ended up very gappy and I had to spend a couple of hours paring thin wedges with which to close the gaps. Those which I marked with a pencil were much more successful with a couple of them being perfect. The handles, which I really should have curved, were also a challenge because in order to be horizontal, they have to go in at an angle to the ends. I actually got that done without too much difficulty and I've become moderately good at accurately planing angles along long edges. The spoke shave work on the tops of the ends is a mess (see pics) and is something that I clearly have to work at.

The positive thing is that I reckon the third attempt will be much more acceptable. The wood is American Poplar (greenish wood for the ends and whitish for the sides) and 6 mm oak veneered ply for the base. The handles are cherry.

Comments and criticism are welcome. (Ignore the chip on the end at the left in the lower picture - I slipped with a chisel.)

 

[Fitzroy]

I can’t even get a straight dovetail to turn out okish, let alone an angled one! Think it’s great.

I like the shape and contrasting woods. I think a routered handle as a part of the ends would be easier, and eliminate the screws which I think detract from the handmade nature of the piece.

Fitz.

 

[nickds1]

Very nice. You could always sink & plug those screws...

 

[billw]

Angled dovetails! Nice work. As the maker you’ll naturally have a more critical eye and also see the mistakes more obviously because you know they’re there.

I struggled with using a spokeshave too, definitely one of those things that needs hours of practice with.

 

[AJB Temple]

That is a very good second attempt. My main suggestion would be use much thinner material. It will keep the weight down and make the tray far more elegant and easier to handle. I too would hide the screw holes. Looks nice - good job on the joints.

 

[pcb1962]

The dovetails look better than any I've ever made, and I would never even attempt them at an angle, nice work.

 

[Andy Kev.]

Thanks for the comments but I think you're all being too forgiving.

The screws only went in because although the handles did glue in nicely, I wasn't too sure if the glue surface was big enough. They don't look too bad in the flesh because they're slotted and I've made sure that all slots are orientated the same. I think I might be able to get around that altogether in Version 3 if I have much higher ends and simply cut hand holes into them.

AJB: the sides are 1/2". I could probably make the ends a fair bit thinner. The reason they're thick is that I wanted sufficient depth for the groove which holds the bottom. Because the groove, being horizontal, is at an angle to the ends it offers its depth minus a certain amount for holding the bottom, so I think that come what may, the ends will always have to be thicker than the sides. If there's one thing I've learned it is that angling one component has lots of knock on effects. Incidentally, I was pleased to discover that cutting the groove in the ends at an angle is dead easy with a plough plane.

 

[billw]

Have you learned anything from the build? If so, whatever mistakes you think you made have had a benefit.

 

[bourbon]

Looks good to me

 

[AJB Temple]

OK. If you want to elevate it to the next level then the sides need to be 3/8" at most and the ends ideally 3/8" too, maximum 1/2". It's a tray and will not need to carry really heavy weights. I assume you gave slotted all around for the bottom. It does not need a huge rebate if you are using a stable material such as ply for the base, and you can also add some reinforcing blocks below if you feel it is needed.

I would redesign the handles completely and make them more elegant, perhaps emulating the arch of the top, and not having squared off ends. Make them less chunky. Maybe pin through in wood to emulate your dovetail contrast.

Good luck with version III.

 

[Nigel Burden]

For a second attempt I would be really chuffed with that. I have made three or four boxes and there's always a gappy dovetail somewhere. Getting better though with practice.

Nigel.

 

[Rorton]

Wow yeah I’d be pleased with that. Looks great, if the next attempt is aiming to be an improvement on that will be brilliant

 

[Chris70]

That looks very good to me. Very good. I'm feeling rather guilty, at present, because I keep buying stuff and have hardly done anything with it. If I'd made that I'd be pretty chuffed. Be proud.

 

[thetyreman]

looks good to me as well, I'd be happy with that.

 

[custard]

Anyone who perseveres to the end of a difficult project like that should feel very proud of themselves.

 

[Bruce Mack]

It is handsome. I am working on one which is overbuilt and more suitable for a tureen. When (if) I complete it, I will post.

 

[Terry - Somerset]

Is there a design point here related to function.

If the purpose of the sides and ends is to (a) stop that being carried from inadvertently sliding off, and (b) provide rigidity to an otherwise thin bendy base, they need to be no more than 2-3cm high.

If they are to contain spillage from that being carried, this may lead to a different design solution. A tray for breakfast in bed would require a greater capacity that to carry a teacup from kitchen to patio!

Or perhaps the goal is a pleasing coherent object, and demonstrate the skill of the maker. BTW - this is not a criticism.

The dovetails are far better than I could produce second time around. I would also cheat, bandsaw the ends and sand

 

[DBC]

Its all just practice mate. You are obviously on the right track. Back in the 80s when I started out my boss used to hate me marking dovetails with a pencil and a gauge and not a knife and gauge like he did. He eventually had to concede that it worked for me. So just stick with the pencil if it seems to gives you better results or increases your confidence. In retrospect a huge favour he did me is that if we ever had any downtime he would hand me any old 2 peices of scrap off the floor and ask me to dovetail them. He would then inspect them and take the p|ss out of me before stamping on them to see how strong they were and tossing them into the scrapheap/burner. I had cut scores of dovetails before any customer ever saw any of my efforts. The point being; if you think this aspect of your work is letting the finished product down then build your competence on palletwood or something first. Its cheaper too.

 

[pe2dave]

I think you are being too 'self critical'? We can all see the flaws in our own work.
To me that looks like an impressive piece of woodwork.
Look forward to seeing the next one!