Correct - I did an acoustics course some years back and the tutor then told us that e.g. for each mm gap around a door, there's a large% increase in noise escape. There's a formula, but I can't remember it...got a book somewhere...
Noise control
- Thread starter Morag Jones
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Correct - I did an acoustics course some years back and the tutor then told us that e.g. for each mm gap around a door, there's a large% increase in noise escape. There's a formula, but I can't remember it...got a book somewhere...
Rich_D
Established Member
Morag
My workshop is a semi detached garage so wanted to keep my neighbours happy.
I housed my dust extractor in an 18mm ply wood box, lined with carpet. The top of one side had 4 holes to let heat out through wooden baffles to minimise any noise. Mounted on castors. A door allowed quick emptying, Check out YouTube for making the baffles. This is a cheap and effective option Good luck.
It's interesting to look at photos from China, S Korea etc of the noise walls used to reduce the effect of traffic noise from urban motorways, factory noise, etc on adjacent residential towerblocks.
Block direct sound by putting up a barrier as close to the noise source as practical for best impact. Mass is great for killing sound, but expensive. Avoid thin barriers that can flex like a speaker cone and transfer the noise. Acoustic rockwool or knauf type materials are effective with much less mass. To protect soft acoustic materials outdoors, perforated metal sheet cladding is commonly used.
Lastly, adding a short top edge, say 12" high, tilted inwards about 30 degrees from vertical is maybe 0.5dB more effective than having that amount of extra vertical height added to the wall.
If you like gardening, a green wall with vertical plants can have some effect.
Block direct sound by putting up a barrier as close to the noise source as practical for best impact. Mass is great for killing sound, but expensive. Avoid thin barriers that can flex like a speaker cone and transfer the noise. Acoustic rockwool or knauf type materials are effective with much less mass. To protect soft acoustic materials outdoors, perforated metal sheet cladding is commonly used.
Lastly, adding a short top edge, say 12" high, tilted inwards about 30 degrees from vertical is maybe 0.5dB more effective than having that amount of extra vertical height added to the wall.
If you like gardening, a green wall with vertical plants can have some effect.
Jameshow
Established Member
Were you Popeye by any chance?!!
No, but i did do my back in.
After we finished i couldnt stand up any more. I had to hand over the site keys, try to haul myself up into a nissan cabstar and drive away without crying.... it turned out that the bending, lifting and twisting doing that for a couple of hours made a disc bulge ( happens every couple of years ) which causes sciatica
gotta love being in buildingAnother great material with good acoustic performance is cork. It is expensive, but it does perform really well. If you need to insulate a little outside shed to avoid bothering neighbors, it might be a viable solution. Just make sure you fill all the gaps and use a baffle on the exaust. For the cork, anything above 20mm thick is very effective (go for 30mm if you're using expanded cork). You can use silicone to fill gaps on the corners and other parts of the structure.
Wood&StuffLtd
Established Member
If you have an iPhone download the sound meter app and test the noise levels from various distances and even ask the neighbours what they can hear. It might not be the problem you think it is. Just a thought!
clogs
just can't decide
as an add on,
I use that cement board quite often and to attach it to wooden frames I always use screws.....
first I use a large say 10-12mm TCT masonary drill to creat a countersink then drill the hole in the middle to suit the screw......plenty of meat in the panel so the screws wont tear/pull out....12mm is all thats available here but u have to buy an 8x4 sheet of it....Uk u can buy 1/2 size sheets....from B+Q or Wikes....
plus I always cut it outside with a diamond blade on the grinder...either a 4" or the 9" depending on how many cuts....I use an old pallet to cut on....
like job n knock says very dusty/messy....
I use that cement board quite often and to attach it to wooden frames I always use screws.....
first I use a large say 10-12mm TCT masonary drill to creat a countersink then drill the hole in the middle to suit the screw......plenty of meat in the panel so the screws wont tear/pull out....12mm is all thats available here but u have to buy an 8x4 sheet of it....Uk u can buy 1/2 size sheets....from B+Q or Wikes....
plus I always cut it outside with a diamond blade on the grinder...either a 4" or the 9" depending on how many cuts....I use an old pallet to cut on....
like job n knock says very dusty/messy....
thetyreman
Established Member
interesting thread this, I am thinking of using cement board now for the my recording studio instead of 15mm acoustic plasterboard, double layered cement board will outperform it and take up less wall space going into the room.
If you have no neighbours within a short distance then just buy a decent pair of ear defenders, very effective and much cheaper.
Thanks! I have made a moveable wall around the machine and it has made a difference. Will be adding rock wool shortly!
Thanks for all the great advice and I’m going to get that app.
Still need to add some celotex between rafters and think about the area above the screen. That doesn’t need to be moveable. Meanwhile lots if offcuts available to make duck nest boxes. 
‘Im indoors is asking when he can have the car port back…
‘Im indoors is asking when he can have the car port back…
