no5 jack or low angle jack plane ?

[Eric The Viking]

It's a fair point, but I'm clumsy enough as it is!

I'd rather have it square to start with, then I've something to reference off when setting the iron (it'll be no worse than using a square on the board itself).

E.

 

[Jacob]

It's a fair point, but I'm clumsy enough as it is!

I'd rather have it square to start with, then I've something to reference off when setting the iron (it'll be no worse than using a square on the board itself).

E.

The usual way is to start off the shooting and check the workpiece with a square, then adjust the blade tilt accordingly. If you haven't got enough margin for error you could set up the plane against a piece of scrap. No need to rely on the plane itself to be square and you have to check the workpiece anyway, however perfect you imagine the set up to be.
PS come to think I don't think I've ever checked the squareness of a plane sole/side as there is no need. I might have a look next time I'm in the workshop and while away a few minutes!

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Amounts to nought anyway unless the shooting board has been tuned by using two squares to check the planes of the bed and track are not in wind and parallel along their length.

 

[Trigs]

so the new planes turned up today, no's 3 and 5 vintage bailey. Im surprised by how much I like the no 5, much more comfortable than my 4 1/2. I tried them on some american walnut, cocobolo, and mahogany the only timber I struggled with was some purple heart. I think I'll order up sone new cap irons though. cheers

 

[G S Haydon]

Good news trigs, a number 5 is a sweet tool. If you are looking at chip breakers the "Clifton 430 Two Piece Cap Iron" could be worth a look. It avoids the deflection of the blade that other chip breaks can cause giving a good seating. Keep it sharp

 

[Eric The Viking]

I struggle with purpleheart (and hate the smell, too!). You might try a back bevel, to raise the angle and reduce tearout, but I gave up, and power-sanded the stuff.
E.

 

[Jelly]

I struggle with purpleheart (and hate the smell, too!). You might try a back bevel, to raise the angle and reduce tearout, but I gave up, and power-sanded the stuff.
E.

I found a 70deg cutting angle, and as fine a mouth as practical worked very well (getting a glassy finish and physically sharp arrises) but it was very time consuming being only able to take gossamer thin slivers with each pass.

 

[Eric The Viking]

I struggle with purpleheart (and hate the smell, too!). You might try a back bevel, to raise the angle and reduce tearout, but I gave up, and power-sanded the stuff.
E.

I found a 70deg cutting angle, and as fine a mouth as practical worked very well (getting a glassy finish and physically sharp arrises) but it was very time consuming being only able to take gossamer thin slivers with each pass.

Duly noted for future use

E.

 

[Racers]

I hate purpleheart, its very bland apart for the artificial looking colour.

Pete

 

[Jelly]

I hate purpleheart, its very bland apart for the artificial looking colour.

Pete

I found finishing with a darkish brown shellac takes some of the vibrancy out of the violet colour, looking a lot better. Not great to work, but it makes for a quite bold looking pieces.

 

[Mike Wingate]

I use a low angle 62 and block plane on Purpleheart. I have been making Ukulele fingrboards and bridges out of it.

 

[G S Haydon]

Sweet work mike . Did you find the low angle 62 superior to the "Bailey" type planes?

 

[dannykaye]

I use Purpleheart for the centre lamination on a longbow, I have Lemonwood, Purpleheart and then Hickory, the Lemon is good in compression, the Hickory in tension and the Purpleheart makes a striking contrast which is all the middle is good for

 

[bugbear]

I use a low angle 62 and block plane on Purpleheart. I have been making Ukulele fingrboards and bridges out of it.

May I (pretty please) guess the inspiration for that?

http://www.martinguitar.com/series/item ... uitar.html

BugBear