no10 plane

[tobytools]

Nobody ever talks about the no10 carriage makers plane. Out of record and Stanly what in you opinion is a better user? Of same era. And how oftern they used. And do you use original iron on a newer replacement. Any info appreciated
Toby

 

[JohnPW]

They seem to go for quite a bit of money on Ebay, which could be only they are a lot less common than the no 4s and 5s. But what's the difference between a carriage maker's plane and a rebate plane? Is it just that a rebate plane's usually narrower?

 

[richarnold]

I have owned a record 010 for years and have a love hate relationship with it. The blade is not skewed so has a tendency to clog up on a regular basis. They do seem expensive on the second hand market, so if I was looking for one I would opt for an old wooden skew mouthed badger instead. a much better behaved animal all round, and not that expensive if you look hard enough. The only disadvantage is they will only cut in one direction, so awkward grain could be a problem

 

[Steve1066]

Love mine
Use it mainly to clean up after running out rebates on the table saw
Still on the original blade and it holds an edge better than the rest of the planes I own.

 

[GazPal]

I've a Record 010 & 010.1/2 and find them good for rapid stock removal, but - as Richard mentioned - adding a skew mouthed badger plane, or Record 712/713/714 to your set up is well worth the effort in sourcing, because the end result tends to be far cleaner. Removing bulk before finishing with finely set skew planes tends to speed up the overall process and the skew blade tends to lessen problems with contrary grain.

 

[bugbear]

Nobody ever talks about the no10 carriage makers plane. Out of record and Stanly what in you opinion is a better user? Of same era. And how oftern they used. And do you use original iron on a newer replacement. Any info appreciated
Toby

See the thread on panels and rebates; they're fairly rare, fairly expensive, and have a straight mounted blade that won't give a nice cut across the board.

A wooden skew rebate is the value-for-money tool here.

Gary recommends the Record #712,#713,#714 planes. So do I - if you can get one for a low price!

http://www.record-planes.com/record-no- ... bet-plane/

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Record-Skew-R ... 4856335c60

BugBear

 

[marcros]

not cheap are those 712's, 713's and 714's are they!

 

[GazPal]

I'm lucky enough to own a pair of 712's.

 

[bugbear]

not cheap are those 712's, 713's and 714's are they!

There are surprisingly few metal bodied planes with skew blades.

The sought-after Stanley #46 and #289 and the Records (listed above) are the only "old" ones that spring to mind.

In the modern era, Veritas have introduced these:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.a ... 41192&ap=1

Including a lefty!

BugBear

 

[GazPal]

I'd spring for Veritas skew ironed offerings if I could justify having them.

We did make patterns and cast a couple of left hand skew ironed copies of Record's #713 - with the addition of fences and adjustments to the rear hand grip - a number of years ago when test driving a few ideas, but my younger brothers nabbed them and I was left holding the drawings.

Record's 712/713/714's are as fragile as their 078 counterparts, but the one that did break was successfully welded and returned to service.

 

[Jacob]

.....
There are surprisingly few metal bodied planes with skew blades.

....

I think there is a reason for this. A wooden skew needs the skew to take you tight into the corner - so only one side is usable and if you want to use it the other way you need another opposite handed one. But a much more precise steel plane (rebate, shoulder,) will cut into the corner without a skew and is easily reversible by tapping the blade over. No skew needed.
Incidentally these planes are the only ones where you really need a dead straight edge as they are essentially edge/corner cutting rather than middle of the blade like most others.

 

[bugbear]

.....
There are surprisingly few metal bodied planes with skew blades.

....

I think there is a reason for this. A wooden skew needs the skew to take you tight into the corner - so only one side is usable and if you want to use it the other way you need another opposite handed one. But a much more precise steel plane (rebate, shoulder,) will cut into the corner without a skew and is easily reversible by tapping the blade over. No skew needed.

Wooden "straight across" rebate planes are common (and were cheaper, historically, than the skew version), and work fine - you don't need a skew to get into the corner, just a full width blade.

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

...
Wooden "straight across" rebate planes are common

Not in my experience. I only ever seem to see skew rebate planes and have got several myself

and work fine - you don't need a skew to get into the corner,.....

No but it helps. That's why they are skewed there isn't another reason.

 

[bugbear]

...
Wooden "straight across" rebate planes are common

Not in my experience. I only ever seem to see skew rebate planes and have got several myself

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-wooden-reba ... 25802e6aaa

...
and work fine - you don't need a skew to get into the corner,.....

No but it helps. That's why they are skewed there isn't another reason.

Roy Underhill's video demonstrated a reason.

BugBear

 

[Jacob]

...
Wooden "straight across" rebate planes are common

Not in my experience. I only ever seem to see skew rebate planes and have got several myself

and work fine - you don't need a skew to get into the corner,.....

No but it helps. That's why they are skewed there isn't another reason.

Roy Underhill's video showed a reason.

BugBear

Would you like to tell us what it was, to save having to watch the video?

 

[Racers]

Working across the grain.

Pete

 

[Jacob]

Working across the grain.

Pete

Not going to make much difference though is it?
In any case 99% of rebates are worked along the grain (stiles, rails, glazing bars etc) with only rare exceptions such as panel edges which end up hidden anyway.
I still think it's the rebate corner thing first.

 

[Corneel]

According to some American moulding plane makers (as far as these are to be trusted...) a straight rebate plane is easier, when you work from just a scribed line without a fence. The skewed version wants to wander away from your line, while the straight ones are easier to keep on track. Personally I can't comment because I suck at this operation and prefer a fence at this stage in my life. When I need to make some rabets I'll have to give it a try again.

 

[Racers]

Probably why you don't see many skewed one in the wild.

I have a couple of woodie ones

and some skewed rounds!

Pete

 

[Jacob]

According to some American moulding plane makers (as far as these are to be trusted...) a straight rebate plane is easier, when you work from just a scribed line without a fence. The skewed version wants to wander away from your line, while the straight ones are easier to keep on track. .......

That's because they don't know how to do it!
What you do, skewed or straight, is to start a rebate well clear of your lines using you fingers as a bit of a fence, then come back with the plane on its side to take the started rebate back to your line, then upright again to carry on against your newly established edge down to the other line with the skewed edge pulling it in nicely.
Or to put it more simply - you work it both ways until you have the edge.

Probably why you don't see many skewed one in the wild......

Could be just chance but I only seem to see skewed rebate woodies and have got several - and have let go of others. I've always taken it for granted that skew rebates are the norm.