No sanding, no priming - Annie Sloan paint

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King-Panther

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Apparently, annie sloan paint can be applied without sanding an object down, or using a primer - is that true?

If so, what other paint manufacturers do the same?
 
phil.p":2yt1hycd said:
They all make paint that can be applied without sanding or primer. :D

Ok, let me rephrase that - paint that will be great when applied without sanding or usung primer - like annie Sloan is suppose to be?
 
Reading the blurb on the web page page, I read it as it will stick to and cover a surface without sanding or priming, it is a Matt chalk like finish and used for arty olde worlde lime wash type finish for decorative finishing rather than general paintwork.
From experience there is no such thing as a paint you can apply over a rough or poorly finished piece of wood and achieve a wonderful finish. A fine finish is all about the preparation.
 
Have used this paint. It does what it says on the tin. However it doesn't give a perfect flat finish that you would get with normal primer gloss etc. But from what i can gather that isn't the sort of finish that it is designed for. My wife has painted several pieces of furniture with it giving it a sort of worn distressed finish. Which it is ideal for. Infact it works better if you are not trying to get a perfect finish. It can also be a bit soft when dried. It is normally finished with a soft wax paste finish, which changes the colours, and the paint work is protected and gets a slight gloss.
 
Andrewf":7b5ifdyq said:
Have used this paint. It does what it says on the tin. However it doesn't give a perfect flat finish that you would get with normal primer gloss etc. But from what i can gather that isn't the sort of finish that it is designed for. My wife has painted several pieces of furniture with it giving it a sort of worn distressed finish. Which it is ideal for. Infact it works better if you are not trying to get a perfect finish. It can also be a bit soft when dried. It is normally finished with a soft wax paste finish, which changes the colours, and the paint work is protected and gets a slight gloss.

No I haven't. Thank you.

Well, in some pieces I want a perfect finish, in others I want a less perfect finish - like your wife achieved.

Do you have any recommendations of paints that will give me a perfect finish, without priming and sanding? Or is there no escaping the hard labour?
 
nev":r9zyfcle said:
Reading the blurb on the web page page, I read it as it will stick to and cover a surface without sanding or priming, it is a Matt chalk like finish and used for arty olde worlde lime wash type finish for decorative finishing rather than general paintwork.
From experience there is no such thing as a paint you can apply over a rough or poorly finished piece of wood and achieve a wonderful finish. A fine finish is all about the preparation.

Ive heard that many times, thank you.

Am I able to paint over a varnished piece of furniture with another type of paint, and get a great finish, or will I have to sand and prime it?
 
Down to the individual paints I would say. Most would require at least a light sanding some will require a primer too. The only way to tell would be to read the tin. If the varnish is not flaked or peeling a light sand with some fine paper just to key it would probably suffice, but if it is flaky in places you will need to remove it completely or you'll have a visible step on the new finish.
Have a look at Lonsdale for a chalky alternative to the annie sloan stuff...
http://www.ronseal.co.uk/home/interior- ... alk-paint/
 
Do you have any recommendations of paints that will give me a perfect finish, without priming and sanding? Or is there no escaping the hard labour?[/quote]
If it were possible, why would anyone make primers and undercoats let alone anyone use them? :)
 
nev":rsbik3er said:
Down to the individual paints I would say. Most would require at least a light sanding some will require a primer too. The only way to tell would be to read the tin. If the varnish is not flaked or peeling a light sand with some fine paper just to key it would probably suffice, but if it is flaky in places you will need to remove it completely or you'll have a visible step on the new finish.
Have a look at Lonsdale for a chalky alternative to the annie sloan stuff...
http://www.ronseal.co.uk/home/interior- ... alk-paint/

Another great reply - thanks a lot! :)
 
phil.p":2kzsy5s9 said:
If it were possible, why would anyone make primers and undercoats let alone anyone use them? :)

According to nev, sanding a priming are required for a slightly damaged, right through to dilapidated pieces of furniture.

Do you agree?
 
Probably, if you don't want it to peel. I've taken gloss off windows that were bare in places (under the gloss) and it goes from one extreme to the other - in one place it'll lift when you look at it, another it sticks like excrement to a blanket.
 
phil.p":17rxu2j8 said:
Probably, if you don't want it to peel. I've taken gloss off windows that were bare in places (under the gloss) and it goes from one extreme to the other - in one place it'll lift when you look at it, another it sticks like excrement to a blanket.

So tell me, when do you think it's ok to not sand and prime, and get a good finish, and when it's unavoidable?
 
You're obviously waiting for someone to say there's a way of getting a perfect finish with absolutely no work. Unfortunately life ain't like that - to guarantee a good finish you have to put the work in. If you are after a particular effect, you'll have to experiment - no one else knows all the variables, anyway. If you experiment, make sure you write down exactly what you've done otherwise if you do get it right you'll probably have forgotten what you did, anyway.
 
phil.p":pxiodowv said:
You're obviously waiting for someone to say there's a way of getting a perfect finish with absolutely no work. Unfortunately life ain't like that - to guarantee a good finish you have to put the work in. If you are after a particular effect, you'll have to experiment - no one else knows all the variables, anyway. If you experiment, make sure you write down exactly what you've done otherwise if you do get it right you'll probably have forgotten what you did, anyway.

Ok, thank you. No, I did think I'd have to put some serious work in, until i heard that about annie Sloan - if I can avoid it, why not?

If I painted an object that has no chips or dents, but is already painted and lacquered/varnished. Can I psibt over it, and get perfect results?

Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to take notes.
 
King-Panther":352n8qde said:
If I painted an object that has no chips or dents, but is already painted and lacquered/varnished. Can I psibt over it, and get perfect results?
That depends on the paint you apply to the existing finish. There may be compatibility issues. For example, applying an emulsion paint over lacquer or oil based gloss paint without any preparation is likely to result in a poor bond leading to the emulsion flaking off: you would need, at minimum, to sand the surface with 80 or 100 grit abrasive to create a key, but even after that, emulsion paint isn't designed to go over this type of finish, and less than optimal bonding is a likely result. Then there may be wax, dirt, grime, silicone or other contaminants on an existing finish to impede a good bond. De-greasing would be a necessity with, for example, white spirits, sugar soap, etc.

In reality, as others have said, the quality of the finish largely depends on the quality of the preparation, although, naturally, the skill expended on finish application has a significant role. Slainte.
 
Sgian Dubh":1nsguir5 said:
King-Panther":1nsguir5 said:
If I painted an object that has no chips or dents, but is already painted and lacquered/varnished. Can I psibt over it, and get perfect results?
That depends on the paint you apply to the existing finish. There may be compatibility issues. For example, applying an emulsion paint over lacquer or oil based gloss paint without any preparation is likely to result in a poor bond leading to the emulsion flaking off: you would need, at minimum, to sand the surface with 80 or 100 grit abrasive to create a key, but even after that, emulsion paint isn't designed to go over this type of finish, and less than optimal bonding is a likely result. Then there may be wax, dirt, grime, silicone or other contaminants on an existing finish to impede a good bond. De-greasing would be a necessity with, for example, white spirits, sugar soap, etc.

In reality, as others have said, the quality of the finish largely depends on the quality of the preparation, although, naturally, the skill expended on finish application has a significant role. Slainte.

Great, thank you. Yes, I indent to clean them thoroughly, and you recommend White spirit for the task?

Which paint would sit on top of the laquared/oil based gloss paint/varnished surface?
 
phil.p":3sb4acb2 said:
Yes, just take some of the shine off with a fine abrasive - the glossier the surface, the more likely the paint or varnish is to peel. A wash with sugar soap is good, too.

Ok, are there no paints that will sit on top of the shine?

Thanks.
 

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