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I'm not a fan of MDF either solely because it's s cheap imitation of real wood; and I'm proud to say there is no MDF anywhere in my house. Thats not that I'm against any man made material masquerading as wood; I like a bit of formica, makes a lovely covering for tables and other flat surfaces !
 
Why do I miss the point if the whole point of me working with wood, is to work with wood?
Nobody said you cannot work with wood Adam, as you are well aware. And besides, Im not really addressing you in this, more a general thumbs up for the stuff.
I'm talking about using other forms. You seem adamant that mdf or 'flat' wood products are not fit for use.
I'll hazard a guess you arent including plywood, despite it also being flat and as you say lifeless.

The occasional table in the pic is in mdf, in madrona burr veneer. To make that in solid would cost a fortune. So it is cost effective.(Its taken a bit of a doing in the last 20 years, so its a little worse for wear with a few chips etc here and there)
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I'm not a fan of MDF either solely because it's s cheap imitation of real wood; and I'm proud to say there is no MDF anywhere in my house. Thats not that I'm against any man made material masquerading as wood; I like a bit of formica, makes a lovely covering for tables and other flat surfaces !
Yes formica is good. I'd be happy with only wood, glass, formica.
I confess to using mdf for some work bench/desk tops - plywood too good, osb/chipboard too rough.
My no-no-not-often is the router. I hate the little beasts.
 
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Great material to veneer on, totally unaffected by seasonal movement, and as the main panel on a door thats getting painted its so much better than jointed up or plywood in that theres no grain.

But each to their own.
 
If it gets wet it self destructs.

Not often a problem in the living room.

What's wrong with grain?
For a super smooth finish on painted surfaces grain patterns are not particularly wanted. So painting, on a grain surface you paint, sand, paint, sand some more, and some more of that, then get the top coat on. Not so with a smooth surface like mdf, . Less sanding, less paint, less time spent.
Less time = more profit, better higher wages.
 
If someone wants a flat sprayed finish, there's nothing better than MDF, or rather MRF. It isn't made from leftovers and at around £50.00 per 18mm board, it's hardly cheap. If it's used properly with skill and given the treatment and time the job deserves it gives a fantastic finish.
 
Not a fan of MDF, still less OSB, nasty stuff.
You've obviously never seen OSB used in a decorative setting and treated correctly. Structually it can hold it's own pretty well, I;ve made seveal items from OSB, including a almost 2m tall pair of shelving units, sanded stained and varnished and it;s a lot more interesting that plain plywood and has not bent twisted or warped like wood can. Cheaper too, and way stronger than laminated chipboard.
 
Anything not from a 'high end' named brand at Screwfix. Quality has gone to hell lately ESPECIALLY insert nuts or anything brass coloured ( powdered metal rubbish)

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wont even go into bloody 12mm pine without the heads shearing off... 5 from 26 and a right bustard to get back out
I tend to use a short bolt to wind them in with, that way the head wont shear off and the body cant crumple up👍 its useful to put a washer between the bolt and fixing to aid removal
 
Nobody said you cannot work with wood Adam, as you are well aware. And besides, Im not really addressing you in this, more a general thumbs up for the stuff.
I'm talking about using other forms. You seem adamant that mdf or 'flat' wood products are not fit for use.
I'll hazard a guess you arent including plywood, despite it also being flat and as you say lifeless.

For your information Andy, this is an open forum where everyone is entitled to their opinion on whatever.

Nowhere on this thread have I said they are not fit for use, so kindly stop making it up and putting words in my mouth. And try not to take it as a personal slight if I say that I don't like MDF.
 
my pet hate is nails.....
yeah, Ok on fencing and roofing lats and I still screw lats down no matter how big the roof is.....
I say why use a nail when a screw will do......yes, that saying can be reversed....
I count cound a pin/brad nailer in the above.....
I inherited a lrg box of assorted nails and have never used any......
wont use roofing felt so the few galv clout nails are just weight......
thinking that all rubbish like this will be boxed and given away SAME with slotted screws...not brass ones tho.....
when I repair pallets I still use screws.....drywall actually.....

not a hate but I rather like Torx headed screws when I can buy em......
 
oddly I'm of the opinion use of nails is a dying art. anybody who has ever tried dismantling a cut roof will concur. a touch of rust just adds to the grip. they seem rough but are strong and cheap. cut nails are just amazingly strong. I think nails and red deal are made for each other.
 
I also think mdf is a bit bland. the act and difficulty of making gives things character. it's difficult to express but my friend is a superb joiner and his products are perfect when there spray painted I just think they don't have a scrap of character. I put it down to ease of manufacture.
 
oddly I'm of the opinion use of nails is a dying art. anybody who has ever tried dismantling a cut roof will concur. a touch of rust just adds to the grip. they seem rough but are strong and cheap. cut nails are just amazingly strong. I think nails and red deal are made for each other.
Yes nails are brilliant and under appreciated. One tip is to pre-drill, depending on circumstances.
 
No nails and such are for builders to stick mdf skirting and architrave down fast, as well as a lot of other stuff such as internal stud walls to the floor. If you are fitting skirting that is a bit nicer and ornate than mdf then use brads or pins which leave very small marks that are easy to fill.
Like current paint - dries so fast you can't paint a door without going over half dry paint, everything has to be fast.
In my house I have to use countersunk screws for skirting - countersunk and filled. It's a 1950s house and must have been built by the village *****. The plaster and I suppose it was meant to be a render under it (but as I live near Skegness I think the chap was used to making sandcastles) are so soft nails won't do anything until they get to the bricks - and they are as hard as engineering ones so even then I have to use my big SDS drill because even a mains normal sized one does not get more than a few mm into the bricks.
 
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