7 years ago, I figured out how to use the double iron since nobody clued me in that you could find instructions for it in a book (I know a few people love that story). At that time, I was building infills - 3 up to then (two from scratch and a kit), and had bought roughed out metal parts to make a Norris A6, which I was going to remake as a 55 degree plane with an adjuster. Thankfully, I didn't do that, it would've been rubbish to use.
The stanley turns out to be capable of anything, but having bought a bunch of vintage infills and finding out that they're not the 7-12 pound boat anchors that a lot of current planes are, I'm kind of glad to get back to it (I'd rather make planes than anything else, I guess) and make some in that weight class without the thick metal parts and gargantuan thick irons.
I think I've forgot most of the lessons that I learned on the first go around, and after doing the filing work on these purchased parts and then knocking them together, it'll be easier just to go back to doing all of the metal work (including the rough work) by hand. The maker of this kit made it so that once you do the finish filing, the whole kit is exactly as wide as the iron, which I will have to rectify by tapering the width of the iron and cap iron (making the iron narrower than 2" is not desirable to me) The objective is to have no marks and no showing dovetails, which I didn't quite achieve. For me, they always come back a little bit when I fit the infills, anyway, because the sides get flexed. I will have to finish file the sides of this thing later after peening the cross pins.
I did learn one thing - it's much faster to finish the sides draw filing than it is to lap them after just draw filing off most of the rough stuff, and much less physical work. They won't be dead flat and square, but they'll be close enough to look like they since 220 grit wet and dry is my level of finish.
I also learned that I need to get a better tapered reamer, but the round holes cleaned up fine with a round file after these pictures were taken. I'll just have to do a little bit of additional peining.
(the metal parts are roughed with pins and tails, but you have to file them and pein them together. There was also a lopsided bronze casting - rough cast - for a lever cap, which was pretty hard to clean up, but there was enough of it to do so. It's a lot more physical work to start from bar stock, but easier to get everything the way you want it).
This is why I was asking for A6 or no. 6 pictures the other day. I would like the woodwork to be right. It takes too long to make them to make any more junk, and the infill wood (something dry and dense with no pores) is pretty hard to come by.
https://s11.postimg.org/jn90xhhjn/20170610_142449.jpg
https://s11.postimg.org/dnl9ttwr7/20170610_142500.jpg
I may lightly pein the little voids on the one dovetail on the one side. It would be quick to draw file off.
My metal-work arsenal for these consists of a 1x42 belt sander and a drill press (and a whole bunch of files), but that's more than I had 7 years ago. I still prefer the files. They keep you from rushing and it feels good to file the metalwork.
The stanley turns out to be capable of anything, but having bought a bunch of vintage infills and finding out that they're not the 7-12 pound boat anchors that a lot of current planes are, I'm kind of glad to get back to it (I'd rather make planes than anything else, I guess) and make some in that weight class without the thick metal parts and gargantuan thick irons.
I think I've forgot most of the lessons that I learned on the first go around, and after doing the filing work on these purchased parts and then knocking them together, it'll be easier just to go back to doing all of the metal work (including the rough work) by hand. The maker of this kit made it so that once you do the finish filing, the whole kit is exactly as wide as the iron, which I will have to rectify by tapering the width of the iron and cap iron (making the iron narrower than 2" is not desirable to me) The objective is to have no marks and no showing dovetails, which I didn't quite achieve. For me, they always come back a little bit when I fit the infills, anyway, because the sides get flexed. I will have to finish file the sides of this thing later after peening the cross pins.
I did learn one thing - it's much faster to finish the sides draw filing than it is to lap them after just draw filing off most of the rough stuff, and much less physical work. They won't be dead flat and square, but they'll be close enough to look like they since 220 grit wet and dry is my level of finish.
I also learned that I need to get a better tapered reamer, but the round holes cleaned up fine with a round file after these pictures were taken. I'll just have to do a little bit of additional peining.
(the metal parts are roughed with pins and tails, but you have to file them and pein them together. There was also a lopsided bronze casting - rough cast - for a lever cap, which was pretty hard to clean up, but there was enough of it to do so. It's a lot more physical work to start from bar stock, but easier to get everything the way you want it).
This is why I was asking for A6 or no. 6 pictures the other day. I would like the woodwork to be right. It takes too long to make them to make any more junk, and the infill wood (something dry and dense with no pores) is pretty hard to come by.
https://s11.postimg.org/jn90xhhjn/20170610_142449.jpg
https://s11.postimg.org/dnl9ttwr7/20170610_142500.jpg
I may lightly pein the little voids on the one dovetail on the one side. It would be quick to draw file off.
My metal-work arsenal for these consists of a 1x42 belt sander and a drill press (and a whole bunch of files), but that's more than I had 7 years ago. I still prefer the files. They keep you from rushing and it feels good to file the metalwork.
