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Do you have the capability to recut the mitre as well as the supplier? For most, the answer is probably not. If the angle is very slightly out, or your straight cut is anything less than perfect, or your blade not perfectly sharp, the job will be spoiled. How spoiled is another matter.Packing the existing newel is likely your best bet, but 2mm all round may also be an error- put on too much and you'll never close the mitres. Are you certain it is 68mm dead, conistently over the whole post? 2 11/16" is 68.26mm, 2 5/8" is 66.68mm. Is there paint on it, or sanded? Might be best to pack 2 sides with 1/8" stuff and move the centreling by a 1/16I would consider fixing the 3 front sides together on the bench. Fix the back side to the newel, dry fit, pack, check, adjust etc. then use a little low-expansion foam to fill in the voids and steady it up and glue and pin the whole thing together.
Do you have the capability to recut the mitre as well as the supplier? For most, the answer is probably not. If the angle is very slightly out, or your straight cut is anything less than perfect, or your blade not perfectly sharp, the job will be spoiled. How spoiled is another matter.
Packing the existing newel is likely your best bet, but 2mm all round may also be an error- put on too much and you'll never close the mitres. Are you certain it is 68mm dead, conistently over the whole post? 2 11/16" is 68.26mm, 2 5/8" is 66.68mm. Is there paint on it, or sanded? Might be best to pack 2 sides with 1/8" stuff and move the centreling by a 1/16
I would consider fixing the 3 front sides together on the bench. Fix the back side to the newel, dry fit, pack, check, adjust etc. then use a little low-expansion foam to fill in the voids and steady it up and glue and pin the whole thing together.
