double sided tape for doing 'stacked' cuts, stops any slipping between the pieces, bostik fast tak spray for attaching the pattern to the wood, clear tape over the top, the clear tape is to help lubricate the blade.
I've seen another method where a guy prints out his pattern in reverse on a laser printer, then attaches the pattern face down using masking tape around the edges, then uses some chemical liquid to transfer the pattern to the wood, I'm sure it's some kind of 'thinner' type stuff but he gets a reasonable image as if it's printed directly onto the wood itself, then just covers in clear tape and cuts.
I've had another thought recently but haven't tried it yet, so this is probably the ideal thread to mention it in. When making circuit boards, we sometimes use laser printers and an iron or a laminator, the pcb pattern is printed with a laser printer, held in place with tape on the back of the board, then we run an iron across the paper for a couple of minutes, or run the board + pattern through a laminator a few times, the result is that the toner is fused to the the board, we then soak the board to release the paper. It's not the cleanest method using straight printer paper, the transfer is always good but it does leave some paper behind that's easily removed with a toothbrush, so it probably wouldn't be appropriate for fancy wood but using other types of paper can yield very clean results, for instance, the poster who is using a4 labels to print out his patterns, the waxy backing paper that he throws away is very good for doing toner transfer, you get a very clean print and removal is a breeze, no paper stuck to the board. Apparently, there is no mess with removing the toner from a piece of wood once you've cut your pattern out, just a quick rub over with a fine grit will get rid of it nicely.
