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Bacms

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Hello everyone,

I have always being interested in woodworking but due to being constantly relocating I never had the opportunity to dedicate much time to it. I have built some wood shelf in the past but they were definitely not on the good looking side, just some painted mdf board hold together with some screws. However I recently moved house and the new place has a garage with a nice workbench and enough storage that I am considering going back to it. We are also in need of some shelving behind the stairs and a couple of tv units and since they need to fit into a bit of an odd space I thought I could try and make them myself.
However I am kind of unsure where to start and what tools I would need for this. Which wood would you recommend for this as well, specially if they can be obtained either online or at B&Q/Wickes as I don't own a car but do have them in walking distance. I already own a sander and a cordless drill as well as an assortment of hand tools
 
Assuming you're mostly going the power tool route, then I think the basics would include :

- Mitre Saw (Go for sliding)
- Drill/Driver (Two if you can)
- Circular Saw (Track saw if you can)
- Jigsaw
- Random Orbital Sander
- Router

One of the most frustrating things about beginning is lack of a suitable workbench and clamping. You say you already have a bench, but it might not hurt to also pick up a cheapy workmate type thing.

You'll want to use a local timber merchant (hopefully someone living near Cambridge can recommend one), and avoid your general box stores. It's cheaper, you'll get better timber (less warpage) and there is more choice. It's likely to be cheaper in terms of delivery as well. If that is not possible, then you'll have to do with what you can get from the box stores. Depending on the project, box store stuff can be fine, it's just pricey. In my experience, Wickes is cheaper than B&Q or Homebase, but the quality seems to be the same for each.

As you're in Cambridge, the Homebase in Cambridge Retail park I was in the other day has a clearance on a lot of their power tools. They didn't look all that great, but for a beginner on a budget, they'd get you started.
 
transatlantic":3deomv62 said:
Assuming you're mostly going the power tool route, then I think the basics would include :

- Mitre Saw (Go for sliding)
- Drill/Driver (Two if you can)
- Circular Saw (Track saw if you can)
- Jigsaw
- Random Orbital Sander
- Router
Don't need to go the power tools route to be honest it is just that most of the videos I see on furniture use them. And this is quite a longer list that what I expected to get me started so budget wise is also not ideal. But to be completely honest I am open to suggestions as my main problem has always been how to achieve snug joints.

transatlantic":3deomv62 said:
One of the most frustrating things about beginning is lack of a suitable workbench and clamping. You say you already have a bench, but it might not hurt to also pick up a cheapy workmate type thing.

The one on the garage is a simple plain side to side cabinet/bench with a bench vise installed so I am guessing that for cutting a workbench would definitely help quite a lot. Any particular recommendation for a reasonable one?

transatlantic":3deomv62 said:
You'll want to use a local timber merchant (hopefully someone living near Cambridge can recommend one), and avoid your general box stores. It's cheaper, you'll get better timber (less warpage) and there is more choice. It's likely to be cheaper in terms of delivery as well. If that is not possible, then you'll have to do with what you can get from the box stores. Depending on the project, box store stuff can be fine, it's just pricey. In my experience, Wickes is cheaper than B&Q or Homebase, but the quality seems to be the same for each.
Thank you for tip hopefully someone will be able to suggest some.

transatlantic":3deomv62 said:
As you're in Cambridge, the Homebase in Cambridge Retail park I was in the other day has a clearance on a lot of their power tools. They didn't look all that great, but for a beginner on a budget, they'd get you started.
This is literally about 5 minutes walking from my place so will definitely have a look in there. But in my experience I can normally find stuff cheaper elsewhere even when they are on sale. Thanks for the heads up nonetheless
 
Don't take too much notice of other people's lists, buy tools as you come to need them (unless of course you see 1st class tools for next to nothing). I'm not knocking someone else's needs or preferences, but it's interesting that fifty years after first buying tools I've only got three of someone else's six "basics". :D If you asked a hundred people here for their top ten, you'd probably get a hundred different lists.
 
phil.p":86nrr7ix said:
but it's interesting that fifty years after first buying tools I've only got three of someone else's six "basics"

I assume you're a 'hand tool guy' then as I find it hard to believe the average' power tool guy' not having all of those in the list.

I did say assuming he was going the power tool route...
 
No, I use power tools every day - just not them. That's what I meant - ask a different person and you'll get a different list. I've never had need of some of them - on occasion they might have been useful, but not useful enough to justify a purchase.
 
agree on the varying lists. Starting a new retirement hobby in 2014 I threw a couple grand in the power tools kitty, and I only have 3 and a half of that list (lol).

If your first project is just shelves, that can be done with hand tools alone (except for a hammer drill for wall brackets.
Then when money is available, but what you need when you need it.
 
I'd recommend looking at some YouTube videos on pocket hole joinery. Whilst it's certainly not 'fine woodworking' it's a cheap and simple introduction to joinery, and will allow you to build some decent furniture.

If you become interested in it, you would just need a pockethole jig (such as the kreg), some screws and a screwdriver along with a couple of clamps :)
 
Agreed that a timber merchant would be best, but (perhaps it's only true of my local ones) I find the white wood.in wicked.is.much much better than b&q. I only buy it very occasionally, and still have to rummage for the straightest bits.

Have a think about what you want to build. Maybe sketch out some.ideas. Then think how you would actually put it together. Then think about what tools are required. If you're happy with hand tools, then perhaps you already have all you need.

Bear in mind that first projects aren't always works of art. However, if you're still pleased with the end result, and enjoyed the process, then stick at it, and with practice comes.improvement.

Good luck to you, enjoy!
 
Although B&Q may not be the best quality or cheapest price, they are worth using for sheet goods.

In my local branch they have a super duper saw. Paid £25 for an 8 x 4 sheet of 12mm ply for some workshop shelves and cupboards. They were happy to cut the board up - 17 cuts and probably took 15 minutes for no extra charge.

Ideally you need to plan any project carefully to avoid further cutting at home - but it all fits in the car easily and if a couple of boards need trimming this still makes life a lot easier.

I often but sheet materials from them - if I don't need a full board, the balance is usually cut into 30 or 60 cm widths for future projects. It also avoids rip off prices for 4 x 2 sheets for which they charge a premium price - probably because most people have hatchbacks not Transits!!

Terry
 
For simple carcasses, you sound as though you just about have every tool you need already. Most timber yards and usually the sheds will cut sheet material to size accurately and for very little cost. If you are carrying it home this will be a big benefit. For a painted finish I would buy good quality MDF (18mm is standard for most applications you describe, the backs can be 6, 9 or 12mm) or moisture resistant MDF (MRMDF) the latter is normally better for a painted finish. Alternatively melamine / veneered chipboard is also good for simple carcasses, a lot of budget carcasses would use faced hardboard as a back panel. The edges can be finished with iron on strip to match.

I would avoid plywood, it's difficult to get good quality, flat (stored properly) void free sheets and it's also much more difficult to get a good painted finish. The raw edges in show really need to be edged with wood which is difficult to get right without expensive tools.

Joints can either be glued and screwed, pocket holed, dowels (cheap jig from an auction site), biscuit jointed etc. Depending on how much on show the sides of the unit will be.
 
I feel humbled by the sheer number of replies I got.

Thank you for all the tips. I have placed an order for the furniture book recommended above which should be delivered by the end of the end and should give some ideas to get the brain going.

Pockets walls do seem extremely easy to do by only doubt there is how to achieve perfect cuts on the wood so the joints are snug. But I am guessing that is where a good saw comes handy and allow you to do just that. Also would it be better to spend some cash and get the table version of the Kreg jigs or does the much cheaper pocket one do the same thing?

I have used the B&Q saw in the past but the last times I have been there I don't remember seeing it anymore and at some point I remember reading a sign limiting the number of cuts to 4 or 5, need to double check though.

I also have been thinking about what I want to build and think I will start with the shelves but for those I can recycle an old corner shelf unit in solid wood I was given by a friend a few years back and currently sits dissembled on the garage, again just need to decide whether I want to buy an electric saw and if so whether to buy a miter saw or a circular/plunge saw and also which brand/model.

I was trying to avoid mdf since the cabinet I want to make will have a 30L aquarium on top and I am a bit worried about whether a simple mdf cube can withstand the weight. The other problem would be how does it react to any spillages during water changes maintenance and so on, but maybe the moisture resistant one you mention is suitable for it.

At the moment I am think in buying a pocket jig and a saw and start from there. My idea is to simple build a box divided into 2 and then each of the "cubes" would have a shelf. Only the front of the cabinet is on show so I can hide the mistakes I made on the sides
 
Bacms":2kb0bsi1 said:
I have used the B&Q saw in the past but the last times I have been there I don't remember seeing it anymore and at some point I remember reading a sign limiting the number of cuts to 4 or 5, need to double check though.

That homebase I mentioned ealier has an instore saw. Not sure how their prices compare to B&Q though
 
phil.p":3o7k9uwg said:
My 400litre tank was on a factory made 15mm mdf stand.

I also have a Juwel one which in on the same material but they do have a lot of vertical supports and they are veneered so water slippages don't cause them to expand. Not sure how it would react if this isn't the case, but I am guessing it can probably be treated to cope better with water anyway. May give it a try given how cheap the mdf sheets are anyway.

transatlantic":3o7k9uwg said:
That homebase I mentioned ealier has an instore saw. Not sure how their prices compare to B&Q though

Thank you will check both
 
You are starting small, and your money is tight, so think small. I dont see any need for pocket jigs to make a shelf or cabinet that is recessed into the walls.

Many years ago in a previous life I owned a tropical fish shop, making my own tanks and stands. I never made a "proper" carpentry joint on any of them. If looks did not matter, pieces of rough swan timber overlapped and screwed got the job done. If looks were important, I used wood faced conti board over a soft wood timber frame.

The most important thing in any hobby is to enjoy what you do. If you try to get too complicated too soon the frustration of learning how work all the jigs and equipment properly will drive you away.

What are the dimensions of your tank? 30 litres is quite small (only 30 kgs weight) and sounds like a 2ft long,so not a major issue on building strength unless the overall shelf is 3 or 4 times that length.
If the tank is less than 3 ft long use a thin sheet of polystyrene under neath to stop any grit from scratching or breaking the glass.

When youve made your first item, and decide you want to make the next one better, THAT's when you start to buy the tools you think you will want.
 

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