Newbie says hello

[colinj]

Hello, just joined the site, I would say I was a hobby Woodworker with a bit of knowledge but wanting to learn more.
Can anyone recommend a good Tenon Saw please I have a £100.00 Budget. I like the 12" Pax N01 as it was reviewed in an old Traditional Woodworking Mag (Oct 2000)

I want this one to last, hence my budget. Is this a good buy and what should I look for in the saw to make sure it is not bent or otherwise out of true.
TIA
Colinj.

 

[Nick W]

Mike, MikeW, where are you, Oh Miiike.

 

[Colin C]

Welcome to the forum Colin

Nice to have one more on here

( I wonder how many there are now :-k )

 

[mel]

hi colinj
welcome to the forum

cheers mel

3 new members in one day
UKW getting very popular
N N will be along in a minute to say hi and welcome :lol:

 

[promhandicam]

hi colin j - what happens when we get up to colin z? will we get there before alf gets to 10,000 posts? is this the basis for another competition :lol:

Steve

 

[mambo]

hi

 

[colinj]

BTW I am a writer not a professional woodworker. But I love getting out in the workshop and playing with wood. after a day at my desk.I have a lot to learn so excuse the "Silly Questions" Thank you for making me very welcome.
Colinj

 

[Paul Chapman]

Hi Colin and welcome. Have a look here http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/saws/index.html

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Shivers]

Hi Colin and welcome. Have a look here http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/saws/index.html

Cheers :wink:

Paul

cor nice saws

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Hi Colin

I have one of MikeW's backsaws gestating at the moment.

I had a specific cut I regularly need to make which is more rip than cross (12 degrees off the grain), and he worked through the ideal solution for me, requesting details of the woods involved and exact details of cut so that he could reproduce the task himself before making a recommendation.

1/4" brass back, 9 point, 16" x 4 1/2" rip with 'slightly relaxed rake' and 'fleam angle between a standard 15 degrees and 25 degrees.'

The blank was cut just over a week ago - woohoo!

Great fellow to work with. Priced in the same ballpark as LN and Adria, but for a tool uniquely tailored to suit your need instead of one off the peg.

O, and Mike's sending sharpening tips, files and a piece of blade with the same teeth to practice on.

Cheers
Steve

 

[MikeW]

Mike, MikeW, where are you, Oh Miiike.

Right here...

Welcome, Colin.

Any new saw you purchase should be free of actual defects. If you get the Pax or Roberts & Lee, you may find it cuts a bit of a wide kerf. No worries. You can "stone" the sides to make it cut less wide of a kerf, which will also have the effect of slightly lessening the effort required to saw.

If it doesn't saw as easy as you would like, you can resharpen it and increase the rake angle [the angle a tooth leans back] to make it easier to start. If it isn't agressive/fast enough, you can lessen the rake angle to make it saw faster [at the expense of making it a harder to start].

The handles some like, some do not. Being woodworkers we can make new ones or reshape the existing ones to make them more comfortable if desired.

In that budget range, the Adria from Classic Hand Tools squeezes in. A much better saw than the two listed above. A bit above the Adria in cost is the Lie-Nielson, perhaps also an option. Both of these saws would serve you the rest of your life with a bit of care. The Adria I find cuts more aggressively than the LN, but both come with much less "set" to the teeth and use thinner saw blade steel than the ones listed above.

Take care, Mike

 

[MikeW]

...I have one of MikeW's backsaws gestating at the moment...

For some reason an image of the movie Alien popped into my head when I read that! :lol:

Thanks--I think :wink:

Take care, Mike
who needs more sleep...

 

[Alf]

Welcome, Colin. Silly questions are not a problem - although you may find silly answers could be.

Dunno if Mike's being terribly modest or simply snowed under at the moment, but he'd be the creme de la creme option. However, if you've not had much experience with using saws there may be an argument for starting with something less creme and thus less likely to cause you to cry like a baby if you inadvertantly did bad things to it. But you'll know better than I how that might fit your situation. Apart from the creme, all the rest seem to be on a sliding scale of more money=better handle shape and sharpening job. So depending where you are with saw sharpening/access to a competent saw doctor and the motivation to take rasp to wood you could buy something much cheaper and customise it to your own specs. Then there's the secondhand option, which could get you creme-ish at non-creme price with "only" the sharpening to worry about.

Isn't it lovely when you have options? ](*,) :lol:

hi colin j - what happens when we get up to colin z? will we get there before alf gets to 10,000 posts? is this the basis for another competition :lol:

Cheeky devil...

Cheers, Alf

 

[Anonymous]

Hi Colin

If you DID go for a second tennon hand saw, which is perfectly feasible, there are decent ones to be had off of ebay &C, then could I sudgest these few tip's that I use as to what to check up on from off of a potential buyer? If an ebay seller ignores this sort of questions, avoid them any way!
Is the blade obviously dented/bent/cracked/twisted etc?
Are there a lot of teeth broken off? (a few are OK)
Is the brass or steel spine (the thick part at the top edge of the saw) loose or sliding off, and does it have any obvious dents/bends etc? (You can simply sight along the teeth, and then flip the saw over and look along the spine same way as a soldier looks along a rifle to aim, to check for straightness)
Is there any evidence of the blade or spine being hammered to flatten it after it was damaged previously?
Are all the saw nuts(the round brass bolts that clamp the handle to the blade) present; have any been "replaced" with any old screws/bolts etc.
Is the handle loose?
Are there any crack's/splits/other damage to the wooden handleSome people get excited about "the makers etch" but an etch wont help you make clean cuts :lol:

If it clears all this theres a fair chance it could be a useful prospect. As someone said, there is the problem of sharpening (if you choose to see it as a problem) but its not that hard a skill to develop and there are some good tuition resources about. When you have a decent sharp saw in your hand it is wonderful when your hear and feel the singing whistling sound as it does its work 8)

Cheers Mr Spanton

 

[woodbloke]

Hi Colin and welcome to the forum - Rob

 

[MikeW]

...Dunno if Mike's being terribly modest or simply snowed under at the moment...

I should be blushing right now...

But yep, currently there is a 6-8 week lead-time for new orders except for those who started inquiry a while back.

Take care, Mike

 

[Amateurrestorer]

Hello everybody I,m new ,got lots of questions to ask so I hope you will be kind and help me out.

 

[Adam]

Welcome to the forum also.

Adam

 

[woodbloke]

...and from me too, welcome - Rob

 

[Alf]

Welcome!

Just as an aside, am I the only person who's always slightly disappointed when someone introduces themselves with "Hello everybody" and doesn't follow it up with "I'm Dr Nick Riviera"?

Just me then. :wink:

Cheers, Alf