phil bowles":29fo3ydy said:
CHJ - I guess in my reading I thought wet ones were better as they kept the steel cool and stopped it losing its edge due to over-heating...I havent used it yet....but I WAS planning to....should i do the major work on the white wheel as normal, then just hone on the wet one?
Does the white wheel run cooler than the nasty grey ones on my cheap grinder, or will I have to keep dipping the tool to cool it while I grind on the white? So many questions!
The white wheel should be fine, as long as you keep it dressed to keep it 'sharp', having said that I have only dressed my white wheel once in the last twelve months.
If your turning tools are HSS then there is no requirement to cool them when sharpening due to their higher heat treatment temperatures, carbon steel needs more care and water cooling is best.
If your wheel is cutting cleanly then only the lightest touch is required and very little heat should be generated, reshaping the tool is a different matter, but again minimal pressure should be applied. 90% of the heat generated should be dissipating in the sparks.
In my opinion there is no benefit in honing the cutting edge, the edge will be under far greater loads during turning than in hand tool use and a feather edge will disappear in the first few revolutions.
It is more important to lightly redress the edge on the grinding wheel every few minutes especially with the harder or more abrasive woods.
Some basic facts about grinding wheels
HERE, just remember to take the vested trade interest of this site into account before you rush out to purchase more exotic stones.
Regarding your 'cheap and nasty grey wheels' most of the heat generated may be because they are glazed (polished) and need "dressing" in order to present new sharp particles. If you have to apply any pressure at all to remove metal then the wheel needs dressing.