Newbie bandsaw question

[sihollies]

HI,
I am wondering if someone could please advise?

I am a hobbyist and have just taken the plunge and bought a small bandsaw while the 'Black Friday' reductions were in place. (Axminster Workshop AW1400B)

I intend to use it for general purpose lightweight jobs, but my first project is to make an endgrain chopping board with my 13 year old godson, who recently seems to have an obsession with timber along with making himself a Damascus kitchen knife. (He's really into cooking too)

I set the bandsaw up today after replacing the blade that came with the saw for a 6mm, 6tpi Charnwood alternative.

I tested the saw on several thicknesses of timber, including cheap softwood, Sapele and Ash, but on each piece, the blade/machine left blade marks on both sides of the timber that i cut, and was wondering what I have done wrong, as I would like a smooth finish after cutting?

I have read the excellent thread titled, 'Bandsaw blade handy reference' which is located in this section of the forums, but would ideally like some direct input regarding the above.

I was thinking about buying a M42 10/14 varitooth blade for lesser thick timbers and perhaps an 8tpi blade for thicker stock, but as I stated above, I am very new to bandsaws & am very inexperienced, so please treat me with 'kid gloves'.

In essence: If possible, I would like some advise on how to create a smooth cut when using the bandsaw.

As always, many thanks in advance for your help.

Simon

 

[Ttrees]

I cannot answer your question, but I'd be looking for the options you have
regarding thin gauge blades.
I've not seen any sort of a head to head comparison between if that was in the back of your mind.
It's quite a small machine, so I'd suggest looking up popular machines of that size to
get your info.
Off the top of my head, the Aldi ferrex Sheppach or Parkside equivalent might be a good source of info regarding seeing the results from different manufacturers blades,
as a lot of folks have got them.

Tom

 

[deema]

Firstly, I would suggest sticking with HSS blades to ensure you’d bandsaw can actual tension them properly.
Next, pop you blade back on, now make a short cut in anything stopping before you’ve cut a piece off. Now, with the machine unplugged rotate the blade by hand watching the teeth. You will find one, or a few teeth are set wider causing a deeper cut than the rest. With pliers just gently press then to reduce the kerf. The cut in the scrap wood helps to find the offending teeth. You will find you can get the blade to cut as clean as it should. It’s one of the differences between a quality blade and a cheap supplied blade.
Buy a couple of blades from Tuffsaws.

 

[robgul]

I have the same saw from Axminster (in its previous form before it was branded as Axminster)

If you're making straight cuts a wider blade will usually give you a smoother finish - there is also the speed at which you push the timber past the blade which will have an effect.

The packaging sheet that comes with Axcaliber blades has some useful tips on blade widths and teeth - if you want a copy PM me and I'll scan to a pdf and send.

 

[Ttrees]

Firstly, I would suggest sticking with HSS blades to ensure you’d bandsaw can actual tension them properly.
Next, pop you blade back on, now make a short cut in anything stopping before you’ve cut a piece off. Now, with the machine unplugged rotate the blade by hand watching the teeth. You will find one, or a few teeth are set wider causing a deeper cut than the rest. With pliers just gently press then to reduce the kerf. The cut in the scrap wood helps to find the offending teeth. You will find you can get the blade to cut as clean as it should. It’s one of the differences between a quality blade and a cheap supplied blade.
Buy a couple of blades from Tuffsaws.

I've never tried setting my blades, mainly because I've not been brave enough to try using a pliers, and would rather buy an old saw set instead to attempt it,
and not the older slotted bladed types.

Now, I've never looked on ebay or the likes to try and find something suitable,
and wondering how common would it be to find something which would suit do you think...
I don't remember if I've even seen anyone set a blade, on the fly,
perhaps Louis Sauzedde might have a video.

Something like this would be nice to have, but no clue whether that would do a 3TPI blade.

Looks a bit more compact than a Norwood saw setting machine.

 

[StilwellDesigns]

Get the best blade you can afford and slow the cuts down.



That being said, you're still going to have to machine it afterwards to get it smooth, bandsaw don't produce a clean cut that you can finish straight away, you will have to plane it or sand it or something...

 

[Orraloon]

Have to agree with the above post. Smooth clean cuts are not what a bandsaw is for. Sure you can go for more tooth count but then you can only cut thinner material. You can perhaps refine the cut some by better saw set up but as said it will never be like a planed cut. While on the subject of set up you may as well refer to the master.
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass - YouTube
Regards
John

 

[StilwellDesigns]

my first project is to make an endgrain chopping board with my 13 year old godson, who recently seems to have an obsession with timber along with making himself a Damascus kitchen knife. (He's really into cooking too)

To add a little more - end grain chopping boards don't usually involve a bandsaw in their production, but they could.

You will probably need a table saw, a surface planer, thicknesser and ideally a drum sander to avoid the "surely I can put this piece of end grain through my thicknesser" dilemma.