Newbee needs help on planer/thicknesser to keep digits.

[JakeS]

NOT plastic (shatters)

Point of order, but while I'd agree that something like MDF is probably consistently safe, not all plastics shatter. Some do, some don't - it depends very much on the particular plastic.

I seem to recall there was a discussion about table saw guards on this very forum a while back that was discussing this, suggesting polycarbonate/lexan for this very property of not shattering. Certainly the only table-saw kickback incident I've ever had was with a bit of polycarbonate (grazed my knuckles and nothing else, thankfully) and it didn't shatter at all, just got chewed up in the parts that the saw blade hit. From that experience I'd be as comfortable using a polycarbonate push-stick as an MDF one... but I'd do my research before I tried it and then use MDF anyway 'cause polycarbonate is far more expensive.

Off the top of my head, I think acrylic and ABS can shatter relatively easily, so I wouldn't want a push-stick made out of those. I'd be pretty surprised if polyethylene/HDPE did, so I'd expect it'd probably be safe enough to make pushsticks out of those thick white plastic cutting boards you can pick up for cheap in supermarkets. I can't think of a reason past "not full of formaldehyde" that you'd want to use one in preference to MDF, though.

 

[Jacob]

OK, but the main point for me is that push sticks are consumables and instead of buying them you make a small batch from offcuts, and expect them eventually to get chopped and shortened in use. You might be a bit over cautious if you had to buy them.
Re n0legs and push sticks - I felt the same but with a bit of practice I felt they gave me more control, not less, and a longer reach with a steadier movement before changing hand position. I don't use them for everything - but even big safe timbers are safer if the last push past the cutters is with one or two push sticks (as per Mr Parfitt above).

 

[Mar_mite]

Push sticks on a table saw, push block on a planer (and only for the last bit of a board to get past the knives).

 

[Mar_mite]

Say your making a door, how the hell could you plane down a 7' piece of 8x2 with push sticks?

 

[Jacob]

Say your making a door, how the hell could you plane down a 7' piece of 8x2 with push sticks?

Common sense rules.
Basically I'd have both push sticks handy and probably reserve them for the last push past the cutters, one holding in, the other pushing from the end as per Mr Parfitt in video above.
It's surprising how much you do use them usefully, once you get the habit.

For big timbers I sometimes wear rigger gloves - not for protection but for better grip, which is safer in itself and probably safer than push blocks.

 

[blackrodd]

In the HSE sheet the use of a tunnel guard is to illustrate how rebating should be done on a planer, but rebating on the planer is not within the ACOP's and should now be done on a spindle or router table. New machines have on the whole has the ability to rebate designed out of them and they are not provided with or designed to take shaw guards.

The HSE advice is quite clear you should use your hands to hold timber down and push it through the machine, the bridge guard should cover the cutter block and be set a close as possible to the timber, the general rule is within 10mm the old regs said 12mm. The use of push sticks is not a recommended practice on the surfacer but push blocks should be used on short timber.

This is a short video of me using the Hammer Spiral Block on some very demanding timber. It was not meant as a safety training video but you may notice that the bridge guard is set to cover the entire length of the cutter block. My hands go over the bridge guard if the timber is kicked back my hands should come in contact with the tables or the bridge guard but not find the cutter block.

If I was edging the board the bridge guard would be reset as close as possible to the thin edge of the timber. My hands would guide the timber through the machine and be lifted of the timber as it passes over the cutter block! I would not use my trailing hand on the back edge of the timber to push it through (one day you will leave your finger behind! You should never have your hand over the top of the cutter block without a guard being between you and the cutter block! If you have any kick back your hand will come in contact with the cutters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyHi5d5aAEw

The HSE video shows and explains what I am suggesting

http://www.hse.gov.uk/woodworking/planer.htm

This and other approved practices are what we teach on our short wood machining courses.

Cheers Peter

Exactly correct Mr Sefton, I would happily send my kids to you for training, as above.
But I will not condone short lengths, Nothing shorter than 750mm and stay in control!
I have never seen a trained professional attempting facing and edging using re-cycled paint pads.
That's 7, where I learnt my trade.
A factory with 100 or more workers machining, and several bespoke window and joinery workshops.
Regards Rodders

 

[Peter Sefton]

In the HSE sheet the use of a tunnel guard is to illustrate how rebating should be done on a planer, but rebating on the planer is not within the ACOP's and should now be done on a spindle or router table. New machines have on the whole has the ability to rebate designed out of them and they are not provided with or designed to take shaw guards.

The HSE advice is quite clear you should use your hands to hold timber down and push it through the machine, the bridge guard should cover the cutter block and be set a close as possible to the timber, the general rule is within 10mm the old regs said 12mm. The use of push sticks is not a recommended practice on the surfacer but push blocks should be used on short timber.

This is a short video of me using the Hammer Spiral Block on some very demanding timber. It was not meant as a safety training video but you may notice that the bridge guard is set to cover the entire length of the cutter block. My hands go over the bridge guard if the timber is kicked back my hands should come in contact with the tables or the bridge guard but not find the cutter block.

If I was edging the board the bridge guard would be reset as close as possible to the thin edge of the timber. My hands would guide the timber through the machine and be lifted of the timber as it passes over the cutter block! I would not use my trailing hand on the back edge of the timber to push it through (one day you will leave your finger behind! You should never have your hand over the top of the cutter block without a guard being between you and the cutter block! If you have any kick back your hand will come in contact with the cutters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyHi5d5aAEw

The HSE video shows and explains what I am suggesting

http://www.hse.gov.uk/woodworking/planer.htm

This and other approved practices are what we teach on our short wood machining courses.

Cheers Peter

Exactly correct Mr Sefton, I would happily send my kids to you for training, as above.
But I will not condone short lengths, Nothing shorter than 750mm and stay in control!
I have never seen a trained professional attempting facing and edging using re-cycled paint pads.
That's 7, where I learnt my trade.
A factory with 100 or more workers machining, and several bespoke window and joinery workshops.
Regards Rodders

Thanks Rodders

I advice to never plane anything under 400mm long (16") but by preference 600 to 800 long min. The risk to your hands is to high for the price of wood just use a longer bit and turn the waste into heat.

If you plan your work you should be able to keep the short bits in multiple lengths or add the short bits to longer pieces.

Cheers Peter

 

[blackrodd]

Starting on 1:30 there is an example of bare hand handling technique. Although HSE video also demonstrates "bare hand" handling, kick back ( or kick forward) can pull your hand to blade. Just read "oops..." thread.
http://youtu.be/AfdfNK86ItE

same technique starting on 1:00
http://youtu.be/dYrNxbxXlg0


Mr Parfitt uses different guard position and handling. While jointing face bare hand for front, push stick for back, for edge jointing just hands.
http://youtu.be/Eh-jo11lsMs

starting on 1:30 two push block sample, one of them custom made.
http://youtu.be/q6Fcpz4du20

still searching on youtube for jointing with push sticks.

I am very surprised that most of the above didn't make a point of either isolating or unplugging the machine whilst explaining the machinery.
none of them made a point of explaining, fully, that you should always work with the grain as well as facing up with the rounded face downwards on the bed'
Working against the grain means the grain is tearing out and the chipping breaker will find difficulty in ejecting the larger waste produced and can cause the same reaction experienced in the banging and kicking when the bed is chocked up with waste, 'cos the bed is too high.
The last person not only did none of the above but had a steel square sat on the cutter block and fingering the cutterblock, and not isolated/unplugged.
safer to use a piece of straight wood, steel chips from that square and cutter will hurt you!
And lastly how safe was all that timber and bric a brac piled on the shelf right beside, and above the planer,
accident waiting to happen!
Regards Rodders

 

[Jacob]

.....
I advice to never plane anything under 400mm long (16") but by preference 600 to 800 long min. The risk to your hands is to high for the price of wood just use a longer bit and turn the waste into heat.....

Yes long pieces better but no risk to your hands with short pieces if you use TWO push sticks. This also reduces the risk of kick back (you stay in control). If you lose control the other big safety measure is to back off, hands-up. Make no attempt to grab the errant workpiece with your bare hands - if push sticks won't stop it then let it get chewed up, fly off, etc. This becomes a reflex if you bear it in mind and have sufficient fear of losing your fingers.