New workshop pics and advice needed

[filsgreen]

Finally got my new workshop, so I thought I'd post a few pics. It's a 14 x 10 shop bought jobbie from Flixton saw mills. As mentioned previously it is insulated with 50mm Kingspan insulation and is boarded out (to my shame) with 12 mm shuttering ply. When I bought it they never said that it was shuttering grade :x

Here is one workbench.

I've put the table saw against the work bench to act as an out feed when required and it also doubles up as support for the chop saw.

Here is a picture of the chop saw and this is where I need the advice.

.

As you can see from the following picture I have made the bench so that I can cover up the chop saw aperture to make a large ten foot bench if required.

I'm not sure though :? , should I leave the chop saw in situ to provide better accuracy or leave it the way it is. If I leave the saw as is, I'm going to put a ruled guide on the left hand side to assist in accurate sawing. However, the down side is that the guide chops the table in half, it is still usable though. Any advice would be appreciated.

Phil

 

[woodbloke]

My two euros worth is that you don't need a chop saw...period, and in a 'shop that size the space could be better used. Keep it under the bench, and bring it out if you need to use it. I cut sheet material roughly to size with a panel saw or a hand held circular saw. Big boards are cut roughly to size in the same way...you can then use the tablesaur to machine accurately to size. I've never had a chop saw and can't see the point of them as an essential fixed bit of kit in a 'shop.
However as a tool to take out to site they're probably indispensable - Rob

 

[Krysstel]

I have a similar arrangement on my bench and considered various options to extend the chop saw fence without compromising the bench space . At the moment I've done nothing but if I eventially decide I need an extended fence (maybe with a ruled guide) then it'll be something that's detachable, perhaps captive nuts under the bench top and two bolts with star nuts or cam clamps.
You might want to look at how I fixed the saw down yet still made it removable. It works well although attaching the saw is a bit fiddely.

Mark

 

[Krysstel]

Keep it under the bench, and bring it out if you need to use it.

Isn't that exactly what Phil's done ? :?

Mark

 

[woodbloke]

Keep it under the bench, and bring it out if you need to use it.

Isn't that exactly what Phil's done ? :?

Mark

Agreed, and that's where it ought to stay more or less permanently - Rob

 

[wizer]

Well I couldn't be without my chop saw. I've thought about selling it a few times but I couldn't. It'd be great to have mine setup permanently with a proper rule and fence system. It looks like you have enough surfaces with the workbench and tablesaw. I'd keep it there perm. If only to save your back lugging it about.

 

[OPJ]

Well, I used to think that I could almost do it all with nothing more than a bandsaw and skil saw. In theory, yes, you can. But, a table saw is the better option if you want to work efficiently.

I bought a mitre saw for accurate (!) cross-cutting. It's mainly been used for trimming components to identical length, in the time I've had it. For small scale furniture though (anything up to 1200/1500mm long), a half-decent table saw with sliding table can do that. I would only now recommend a sliding mitre saw to someone if they truly didn't have sufficient space inside for a table saw. Or, if they do a lot of joinery work and regularly need to work with components 1.8m or longer (not easy or 'safe' on a medium-sized saw).

Yes, I think I'm about to make a very "WiZe" decision, in the near future... :wink:

That's not to say that I don't think a non-sliding saw has its advantages. They're more compact and so, can be more easily stored away or transported to a job.

 

[OPJ]

Phil, if you know it's going to get used then, by all means, leave the saw in position. Last thing you want to be doing is lugging the thing up and down, where accuracy could be jeopardised each time you shift it.

Where does your router table live? Assuming you have one... Might be a good idea to incorporate one in to the outfeed table, otherwise - that seems to work well for some.

 

[wizer]

I use mine for rough crosscuts all the time. It's just so much quicker than using the TS, especially for long thin stock. It can make very accurate 90 degree cuts and the mitres are good for 1st fix type stuff. It depends what you're going to making.

 

[OPJ]

Yes, I agree. That is what I've mostly used mine for - rough cross-cuts of long and wide timbers. In some cases though, I think it might be easier to rough-cut them to length with 9in. circular saw. When I was building my workbench from 3in. beech, it was far from easy getting some of those lumps up on to the SCMS!! :shock:

But, if you've got the space...

Tom, am I right in saying that your Bosch saw is the one piece of machinery that you have owned for more than six-months??? :wink:

 

[filsgreen]

Thanks for advice guys. I think I'm going to leave in on top as Tom is right, it's a real pain lifting it up and down, and after all the space is there. I'm going to make the guide removable so that the bench is usable.

Cheers

Phil

 

[wizer]

I've had the SCMS for 5yrs, worth every penny.

 

[devonwoody]

My neighbour would get depression I am sure if I didnt have a chopsaw.

 

[filsgreen]

Here is a quick update.

The guide in place using bench dogs .

Out of situ, spot the mistake

With the clamp stop

Cheers

Phil

PS if anyone wants a 10% off Screwfix code, please e-mail me.

 

[jlawrence]

hmm tightening that clamp could be problamatic.

 

[filsgreen]

You're right jlawrence, it's not easy to tighten. Any other ideas on how to do it would be welcome.

 

[Benchwayze]

I have a chop-saw. A cheapo B&D, not even used it yet. I seem to get by with my Triton Mk3 in overhead mode. I don't think I have ever used it as a table-saw. It's indispensable for those everyday jobs; (workshop benches and cupboards for instance) when you need to dimension legs and drawer stuff, so you can get on with it. I know it's always dead square to work from.

That's my two penn'orth.


John