New Workshop Build Order

[jamesmerrix]

Hi,
I am planning to biuld a new workshop in the next few months and wanted to get peoples thoughts as to the best order to work through the project.
It is going to be about 4x8 - with a dividing wall about 2.5-3m from one end to create a home office as well.
It is going to be a timber frame building with a concrete floor, featheredge cladding and a slate roof.
After asking peoples advice regarding the windows i am going to get some UPVC windows (either new or second hand, depending on what pops up on ebay).
Insulation will probably be a mixture of rockwool (or equivilent) and PIR (probably from Seconds and co)

I think i am fairly happy with the first stages of the build:
please correct me if i am wrong...

Foundations - trench style filled with concrete
A few courses of bricks/blocks
Fill the base with hardcore, sand, DPM and then concrete
insulation
Screed
DPC over the brickwork
Timber frame to eaves height.

This is where I start to get a bit unsure;
roof structure?
underlay?
slates?
exterior wall cladding?
insulation?
internal coverings (OSB, plasterboard etc)?
windows/doors?

or should i get the walls and windows done before the roof and then finish with the insulation and interior covering?

I am sure that which ever way I picked I would end up with a usable space, but i would rather get it right first time so that i did not have to undo work in order to fit in a vital stage that i had forgotten!

Thanks in advance for your help.
james

 

[carlb40]

First part looks okish.
Brick work needs to be a min of 3 courses of bricks above ground level.
When you put the DPM down for the floor, that goes over the top of the bricks. Then you can pop the DPC on top of that.


2 Ways to do the floor though. Concrete slab - will take a while to warm up in winter, plus harder on the feet.
Concrete slab, battens/ insulation then ply over the top. Warm in winter straight away, plus easier on the feet and tools if you drop them.

Once the walls are up, do the roof. It will tie everything together and keep it structurally sound.

So walls, roof structure, underlay, battens, slates.
Then doors / windows - makes it easier to clad up to.
Cladding - then internal works when weather tight

Are you putting a breather membrane on before cladding?

 

[jamesmerrix]

That all sounds sensible - i had considered doing the roof first, but was a little worried about leaving the sides open.
I didn't want it flying off into the distance with a bit of wind!!

Wall construction was going to be:
Inside --> Outside
OSB, rockwool, Breather membrane, Counter battens, featheredge - sound right?

the breather membrane was something i was unsure of, would this work?
http://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/prod ... -roll.html
I was planning to put this under the cladding and slates.

 

[carlb40]

The tyvek is fine, that is a standard one.

Not sure if you mean the osb is going on the inner walls? Which will be fine. Not sure counter battens are needed? Can you not just tyvek then fix the cladding to the studs?

 

[jamesmerrix]

yup OSB on the inside. i assumed i would need a clear vented space between the insulation/tyvek and the cladding. if not then great, its one less thing to buy!
Thanks for your help
james

 

[carlb40]

yup OSB on the inside. i assumed i would need a clear vented space between the insulation/tyvek and the cladding. if not then great, its one less thing to buy!
Thanks for your help
james

Basically this is being built like most houses in the USA. If you watch them build a house, they do the framing, then the roof. Then the whole of the exterior gets covered in ply. Then they tyvek the walls/ roof. Then clad directly to the ply. It is very rare to see them counter batten the walls.

So unless anyone else on here says so, yep leave the battens off

 

[cammy9r]

Hi, your plan seems good. I would put the counter battens under the cladding it will improve airflow around the timber and keep it strong for longer.
build-a-shed-mike-s-way-t39389.html
This seems to be the accepted method of construction, and the one I followed when building my workshop.
The cost of the counter battens was less than £60 for my 5x7ishM so worth doing in my opinion.
When building the walls put a diagonal brace or two screwed to the inside face too keep it all square as it will move a bit even if dwangs are fitted. Not until sheathed or clad will the wall be rigid.
This is how I put mine together......post801796.html#p801796