New workshop build -design and ideas stage-any input wanted!

[liam8223]

This year I am planning to build a new workshop to move out of my condensating hole of **** that i currently call my 'shop.(Its two 40ft containers bolted together and the centre walls removed, making it 40x16 ish).

I am planning all in my head, so decided to put ideas on here to 'store' them and get your advice.

The 'shop will be 40'x20' internal, with a blue brick dwarf wall say 4 or 5 courses high, with 4''x2'' studwork, 100mm celotex, vapour barrier both sides of stud, batten outer stud on top of v/b around an inch and clad with tanalith treated shiplap, probably some decent stuff.

then 3/4 ply lining inside(for shelf fixing made easy etc) with surface mounted electrics.

Floor will be 5'' thick concrete atop a thick dpm, all powerfloated and silky smooth.

For roofing its either insulated steel box profile sheeting (very expensive, used it on my 20x25ft car garage and cost a bomb!)

Or- line roof with 3/8 ply inside, 100mm insulation, then 1/2" ply outside and then ashphalt roofing tiles, have used these on my log cabin, but just think they will look nice but be very time consuming to fit?

Not thought of windows yet - would anyone recommend having / not having natural light? - I can weld so making security grilles is no problem.

The new 'shop will have a timber store leanto outside and an extra room on the back, say the same width as the 'shop, around 6ft deep, as a room for the compressor and dust extractor.

Hope my dream comes true this year, hopefully have enough time!

sound ok so far?

any useful tips on the framing?

cheers, liam.

 

[Max Power]

I would definitely advise having plenty of natural light, buildings without an outside view can be very depressing.

 

[flying haggis]

This year I am planning to build a new workshop to move out of my condensating hole of **** that i currently call my 'shop.(Its two 40ft containers bolted together and the centre walls removed, making it 40x16 ish).

I am planning all in my head, so decided to put ideas on here to 'store' them and get your advice.

The 'shop will be 40'x20' internal, with a blue brick dwarf wall say 4 or 5 courses high, with 4''x2'' studwork, 100mm celotex, vapour barrier both sides of stud, batten outer stud on top of v/b around an inch and clad with tanalith treated shiplap, probably some decent stuff.

then 3/4 ply lining inside(for shelf fixing made easy etc) with surface mounted electrics.Floor will be 5'' thick concrete atop a thick dpm, all powerfloated and silky smooth.

For roofing its either insulated steel box profile sheeting (very expensive, used it on my 20x25ft car garage and cost a bomb!)

Or- line roof with 3/8 ply inside, 100mm insulation, then 1/2" ply outside and then ashphalt roofing tiles, have used these on my log cabin, but just think they will look nice but be very time consuming to fit?

Not thought of windows yet - would anyone recommend having / not having natural light? - I can weld so making security grilles is no problem.

The new 'shop will have a timber store leanto outside and an extra room on the back, say the same width as the 'shop, around 6ft deep, as a room for the compressor and dust extractor.

Hope my dream comes true this year, hopefully have enough time!

sound ok so far?

any useful tips on the framing?

cheers, liam.

bear in mind that any fixings you use that go through the 3/4 ply will puncture the vapour barrier. A couple will not matter but lots of holes for shelf brackets, conduits, hooks etc could pose a problem.


And dont forget the pics to make the rest of us jealous =P~

 

[Sportique]

Am I right in assuming that fixings through the lining AND into the stud supports (thus penetrating the VB) will not affect the VB efficiency :?:

Dave

 

[MikeG.]

The 'shop will be 40'x20' internal, with a blue brick dwarf wall say 4 or 5 courses high, with 4''x2'' studwork, 100mm celotex, vapour barrier both sides of stud, batten outer stud on top of v/b around an inch and clad with tanalith treated shiplap, probably some decent stuff.

Liam,

apart from the "vapour barrier both sides of the studwork" that is a very sound description of an excellent workshop. The vapour barrier internally is fine, if a little unnecessary with the inner ply lining doing a good job of preventing the egress of moisture through the wall. The outer vapour barrier is a huge no-no. Don't do it!

Replace the outer VB in that spec with a breathable membrane, or even a building paper, and you have a great wall. I note the gap between the studwork and the back of the cladding, which is great news............the message is getting home!!!!!!! Don't forget to ventilate the void top and bottom, which will mean designing in some insect mesh.

The powerfloated slab is also a good idea.......do make sure that you cast it a couple of inches above ground level, with a substantial DPM underneath, and as this building will require Building Regs approval you must comply with the Local Authority's requirements for the slab and foundations.

Mike

 

[MikeG.]

Am I right in assuming that fixings through the lining AND into the stud supports (thus penetrating the VB) will not affect the VB efficiency :?:

Dave

Dave,

in a house, penetrations through a vapour barrier (other than at a stud position) would be important. I generally design in a services zone, outside the VB, to avoid the problem. In a shed, which is intermittently occupied, heated to a lower level than a house, and which doesn't have moisture producing areas such as kitchen and bathrooms, it isn't a big deal. Additionally, the vapour barrier is over-kill anyway, because the ply is so moisture-impermeable.

Mike

 

[liam8223]

ok mike, have took that on board.

Is the tyvek stuff you see on buildings the correct choice?

This is the vey reason I wanted to put this on here, so as not to make the mistakes I may regret later!

Also, because I live on a farm, and I have no neighbours, and no dwellings nearby - does this still need planning / building regs?

Many thanks for the input everyone.
Photos will be very concise, I intend to do a full WIP, as i just love seeing other peoples builds, think its only fair to post mine!

 

[Sportique]

Mike - many thanks - sorry - yes - I was thinking of a shed/workshop situation.

I plan to re-roof then insulate/line my small workshop later in the year.

(Apologies for the brief hi-jack)

Dave

 

[MikeG.]

Liam,

BR & Planning.........yes, but it shouldn't be any difficulty at all. You could probably get Planning Pemrission without any drawings if you have a co-operative council, and instead of getting "Full Plans Approval" you could build it on "Building Notices" (you're risk.........ie, you can be made to take anything down that you have done wrong) to show compliance with the Regs.

Some councils take a different (more lenient) view with farm buildings.......just ring the local planning department and have a chat with a Planning Officer.

Tyvek do a product which is called House Wrap, which is perfect for this circumstance.

Mike

 

[liam8223]

many many thanks mike, just the sort of advice required!

Happy new year by the way!



Liam

 

[ciscoeuk]

The 'shop will be 40'x20'

For roofing its either insulated steel box profile sheeting (very expensive, used it on my 20x25ft car garage and cost a bomb!)

cheers, liam.

you will need plannig permission for the unit of that size, i had to get planning hust to change a roof, eeeeeeeeeeeeeeek!, 5 months later i got approvel,

stick with cheep roof tiles, and double insulate

download sketchup and design your building, is free, search goole

happy new year all

 

[yo_chuci]

download sketchup and design your building, is free, search goole

happy new year all

is that a new search engine for 2010 lol

 

[liam8223]

Some photos as promised of my current shop;

The walls and roof are not insulated, and my only means of keeping it from condensating is a new X-Dry dehumidifier - whick i can thoroughly recommend.

So you can see my craving for a nice cosy timber workshop!

cheers,
Liam.[/img]

 

[MikeG.]

A workshop with wood in it.......and sawdust on the floor!!!! Whatever next? :wink:

Mike

 

[CNC Paul]

Liam,

I had that condensation problem in my old workshop, I suspended 25mm polystyrene from the roof. It certainly stopped the drips all over the place and it did not cost very much.

Can you through some sheets over them ceiling bars ?

 

[ciscoeuk]

A workshop with wood in it.......and sawdust on the floor!!!! Whatever next? :wink:

Mike

just a thorght wheres the wood rack ????

anuntidy workship is a confused mind?. my woodwork teacher bashed that into me very early on

atb

 

[liam8223]

no woodrack, been very busy since putting all the tools in, and can't find the time now!

Hopefully this year will see my new workshop up and fitted out, complete with woodrack!

Any ideas on a design that works well?

Liam.

 

[Benchwayze]

Guess I must have a confused mind...

But it all depends on circumstances dunnit?

Liam,

Once the new shop is finished, I hope you don't hanker after your old one! It's thrice as big as mine. In your shoes, I'd be tempted to make it cosier, if that's what bothers you.

Regards
John

 

[DaveL]

Liam,

Are those lumps of cast iron Wadkin by any chance? You have some useful looking machines there. 8)

 

[liam8223]

Yep! Being in Leicester I thought t'was the only way to go.

They produced some brilliant pieces of kit,

Mine are;

12" AGS saw, 12x7" BAO/S planer, BRA400 radial arm.

Also in the mix is a walker turner 14" bandsaw and a solid old multico Mortiser.

Picked them all up for a song, the saw came as is and cost me all of £50, Planer was £300 and the Radial arm was £250. Mortiser was £300, but its a beaut, and in perfect condition - albeit missing the door on the base cabinet.

The bandsaw was free! I am in the middle of restoring it to former glory - I was going to get rid, but am loathed to do so!

Couldn't bear not having cast iron........................... :roll: