Read the manual. Most modern machines have a dead mans handle type brake, typically a lever you have to hold down for the machine to run. If this is not held down then you wont be able to turn it over. So first make sure the blade is secure. Now remove the spark plug and pull the machine over a few times. Even if the cylinder is full of oil there is really no need to take the head off. If oil comes out of the plug hole when you pull it over, then just keep pulling it over until this stops. Clean the plug if dirty, white spirit or meths will do. Replace the plug. Fill the engine with the correct oil, ordinary engine oil for you car is NOT the correct oil, check the manual for the correct oil and levrl. Then fill up with fuel and see if it will start. If there was oil in the cylinder then it will smoke a bit when you first start it, this will soon clear.
New Lawnmower has leaked oil and has creamy thick residue in foam filter...
- Thread starter Krome10
- Start date
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Stevekane
Established Member
Dont forget an update,,,,
Steve.
Steve.
TomTheToolMan
Established Member
I fix mowers and strimmers for a hobby. Plenty of videos on YouTube. Personally I would empty the fluids in it, clean the air filter and refill with oil. Then remove spark plug and pull over a few times to make sure nothing in cylinder. Replace spark plug, fresh fuel and then try to start. I'd it doesn't start then start diagnostics.
Possible reason for "white creamy " residue can be water contamination. Drain all oil from m/c and if signs of water in drain basin return to supplier. If no signs refill to specified levels with new clean oil.
Krome10
Established Member
Amazing bunch of replies - I do love this forum. Thanks everyone. here's an update and another confession...
First, just to clarify the whole situation (as per some of @Glitch ‘s questions). We ordered the mower. It arrived with oil in the bottom of the box and around some of the outside of the machine. We queried it, especially in light of the fact it is supposed to be sent empty, and wondered whether it was a customer return (though there’s no other signs of use). They said – without any further ado – that they were going to refund it. Pleasantly shocked we were!
They haven’t sent a replacement, we’ve just got the one they refunded. And it isn’t a case of it not working; I haven’t actually tried to run it yet. I was concerned that trying to run it with oil in places oil shouldn’t be could cause problems. So I’m now on a mission to see where the oil has got to and to clean it up as needed (if needed).
The blade stuck thing was me being a complete tw@t – trying to turn it by hand with the brake on, and thinking it was stuck. Not my proudest moment. So that can be ignored (or laughed at).
Unfortunately, I think I’ve been similarly stupid with the “creamy oily filter”. Here’s what happened… When I checked the filer it was thick with oil. I’m guessing that a lot of the oil that escaped ended up there, and the sponge being a sponge soaked it up. It only turned creamy when I had it in a bucket of soapy water and was trying to clean it up. From what I’ve now read, oil does that in water!! This isn’t a wind up, I promise! I’ve got a lot of learning to do.
I agree that it is looking like the machine has been sideways, upside down, etc during transit, which has led to whatever amount of oil was in there getting to places it shouldn’t. It was sent from the Netherlands I think, so has probably been loaded and offloaded several times, and I doubt people have been bothered to keep it the right way up. Not that they would have needed to had it been shipped empty (which it was meant to be).
Because of work I've not been able to do as much as I had hoped on it. I've taken the spark plug out and it was clean on the inside but a little dirty on the outside. I've taken the engine cover off to look for signs of oil. And that's about it.
The mower is a Sprint 460P and is has B&S 450e engine. It is a push mower, not self-propelled. I don't think it has an oil drain point; you have to drain it from where you put the oil in.
Photos to follow.
It seems there are two main approaches, one to delve deeper and look where the oil has got to, and the other to drain it/pull the cord with SP remove whilst checking for oil in the SP socket (etc). Perhaps with the info above and the photos below it will be clearer what's best to do next.
Once again, thanks a million for the help, and for sticking with it even in light of my small engine faux pas!
PS - and thanks @clogs for that kind offer, although I'm not sure they'd let me through airport security with the mower.
First, just to clarify the whole situation (as per some of @Glitch ‘s questions). We ordered the mower. It arrived with oil in the bottom of the box and around some of the outside of the machine. We queried it, especially in light of the fact it is supposed to be sent empty, and wondered whether it was a customer return (though there’s no other signs of use). They said – without any further ado – that they were going to refund it. Pleasantly shocked we were!
They haven’t sent a replacement, we’ve just got the one they refunded. And it isn’t a case of it not working; I haven’t actually tried to run it yet. I was concerned that trying to run it with oil in places oil shouldn’t be could cause problems. So I’m now on a mission to see where the oil has got to and to clean it up as needed (if needed).
The blade stuck thing was me being a complete tw@t – trying to turn it by hand with the brake on, and thinking it was stuck. Not my proudest moment. So that can be ignored (or laughed at).
Unfortunately, I think I’ve been similarly stupid with the “creamy oily filter”. Here’s what happened… When I checked the filer it was thick with oil. I’m guessing that a lot of the oil that escaped ended up there, and the sponge being a sponge soaked it up. It only turned creamy when I had it in a bucket of soapy water and was trying to clean it up. From what I’ve now read, oil does that in water!! This isn’t a wind up, I promise! I’ve got a lot of learning to do.
I agree that it is looking like the machine has been sideways, upside down, etc during transit, which has led to whatever amount of oil was in there getting to places it shouldn’t. It was sent from the Netherlands I think, so has probably been loaded and offloaded several times, and I doubt people have been bothered to keep it the right way up. Not that they would have needed to had it been shipped empty (which it was meant to be).
Because of work I've not been able to do as much as I had hoped on it. I've taken the spark plug out and it was clean on the inside but a little dirty on the outside. I've taken the engine cover off to look for signs of oil. And that's about it.
The mower is a Sprint 460P and is has B&S 450e engine. It is a push mower, not self-propelled. I don't think it has an oil drain point; you have to drain it from where you put the oil in.
Photos to follow.
It seems there are two main approaches, one to delve deeper and look where the oil has got to, and the other to drain it/pull the cord with SP remove whilst checking for oil in the SP socket (etc). Perhaps with the info above and the photos below it will be clearer what's best to do next.
Once again, thanks a million for the help, and for sticking with it even in light of my small engine faux pas!
PS - and thanks @clogs for that kind offer, although I'm not sure they'd let me through airport security with the mower.
Krome10
Established Member
To start with, here's a potentially dodgy looking photo of the creamy oil. I'd say that's maybe around 5% of how much I got out of the filter:
And here's the spark plug:
And lastly a bunch of photos of all the places I've found oil. There was also oil in the groove of the deck. Some show just small amounts of oil. I've uploaded them all to help gauge how minor or bad it could potentially be, and where else might be best to check (if anywhere):
And here's the spark plug:
And lastly a bunch of photos of all the places I've found oil. There was also oil in the groove of the deck. Some show just small amounts of oil. I've uploaded them all to help gauge how minor or bad it could potentially be, and where else might be best to check (if anywhere):
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Krome10
Established Member
chris.s
Established Member
The air filter is supposed to be covered in oil looks like a brand new engine that has never been run if there was oil in the engine it would show on the dipstick and the drain plug is at the bottom of the engine alongside the output shaft
okeydokey
Established Member
Dont worry about odd bits of oil in random places.
So now the spark plug is out I guess you've pulled the starting cord a few time and the cylinder wasn't full of oil, the plug is now back where it should be and the plug cap is back on the top of the plug (might be a bit of a push). Then you put the right amount of oil in and half filled the tank pumped the little round button 4 or 5 times to prime the carburettor pulled the start cord and -------
We're waiting to hear from you --- perhaps it started after3 pulls smoked a little for a minute and now its absolutely fine ----- yes?
Maybe you've watched the Sprint 460 setup video as well?
https://www.sprintpower.eu/eu/en_gb/support/first-set-up.html
So now the spark plug is out I guess you've pulled the starting cord a few time and the cylinder wasn't full of oil, the plug is now back where it should be and the plug cap is back on the top of the plug (might be a bit of a push). Then you put the right amount of oil in and half filled the tank pumped the little round button 4 or 5 times to prime the carburettor pulled the start cord and -------
We're waiting to hear from you --- perhaps it started after3 pulls smoked a little for a minute and now its absolutely fine ----- yes?
Maybe you've watched the Sprint 460 setup video as well?
https://www.sprintpower.eu/eu/en_gb/support/first-set-up.html
Krome10
Established Member
Thanks for the replies.
@chris.s - I appreciate the filter should be oiled, but from what I've seen and read filters should be quite lightly covered. This was saturated. Perhaps different filters require different amounts, or it's a personal preference thing? Regardless, it says in several places that the machine will have no oil in it whatsoever on arrival.
Yes,it is a brand new engine - it's a brand new machine. The dipstick has oil on it, albeit a small amount and nowhere near up to the correct level. What the level would have been had none escaped, I don't know.
RE the drain plug. Can you see it in the photos? I wouldn't know where to look to be honest. But in the manual it says there isn't one and to drain you have to do so from the inlet. From the manual: "Remove Oil: The oil must be drained from the oil fill tube..."
@okeydokey - Yes I watched the video when I put it together, which was a damn site clearer than the assembly leaflet. Thanks for the link though. Thanks also for the what to do next instructions. Like I said above, the other school of thought seems to be to check for oil in the cylinder (and possibly other places?) first. So not sure which route to take, but happy waiting for a few more replies to get a consensus. I'm away today anyhow so won't be able to do anything on the machine.
Thanks again
@chris.s - I appreciate the filter should be oiled, but from what I've seen and read filters should be quite lightly covered. This was saturated. Perhaps different filters require different amounts, or it's a personal preference thing? Regardless, it says in several places that the machine will have no oil in it whatsoever on arrival.
Yes,it is a brand new engine - it's a brand new machine. The dipstick has oil on it, albeit a small amount and nowhere near up to the correct level. What the level would have been had none escaped, I don't know.
RE the drain plug. Can you see it in the photos? I wouldn't know where to look to be honest. But in the manual it says there isn't one and to drain you have to do so from the inlet. From the manual: "Remove Oil: The oil must be drained from the oil fill tube..."
@okeydokey - Yes I watched the video when I put it together, which was a damn site clearer than the assembly leaflet. Thanks for the link though. Thanks also for the what to do next instructions. Like I said above, the other school of thought seems to be to check for oil in the cylinder (and possibly other places?) first. So not sure which route to take, but happy waiting for a few more replies to get a consensus. I'm away today anyhow so won't be able to do anything on the machine.
Thanks again
So you've got yourself a brand new, free lawn mower!
Clean up the oil spills.
Wash the filter with soapy water, dry it and re-oil it as per instructions or many YouTube videos.
Top up oil and fuel and give a whirl.
Clean up the oil spills.
Wash the filter with soapy water, dry it and re-oil it as per instructions or many YouTube videos.
Top up oil and fuel and give a whirl.
okeydokey
Established Member
Just one more and I will leave it alone
Its not a vintage Rolls Royce
If the cylinder was fill of oil - when you try pull the starting cord it wont turn round as the oil would stop the engine turning which is why I said give it a few pulls without the plug in any large amounts of oil will be expelled. Put a bit more oil in then petrol and as above off you go.
Don't overthink it
Don't worry about the air filter it will go without it when its going you can put it back. Its there to stop dust/grasscuttings and suchlike from going into the carburettor
Its not a vintage Rolls Royce
If the cylinder was fill of oil - when you try pull the starting cord it wont turn round as the oil would stop the engine turning which is why I said give it a few pulls without the plug in any large amounts of oil will be expelled. Put a bit more oil in then petrol and as above off you go.
Don't overthink it
Don't worry about the air filter it will go without it when its going you can put it back. Its there to stop dust/grasscuttings and suchlike from going into the carburettor
quality tip and should be said loudly in every blade change tip on a mower. the urge to see where the blade is in rotation is about the same as prop starting an airplane.
the oily stuff in the filter if it looks white like that is a bit odd, but it *used* to be common to oil treat sponge type filters so that they would catch particulates rather than letting them bounce through.
Not sure what the filter element is, but at least on honda's motors, it's pleated paper, so no oil.
Other than that, there's not much to those motors. If it runs fine and has oil in it, just keep running it.
Honda also requires draining like you say - there's only one way in and one out and it's the same hole unless your mower is an oil burner. That makes draining the oil a good time to sharpen the blade (someone may have said that already - sorry if I didn't read that elsewhere in the thread - the post volume is large.
that leads back to mike's tip remove plug wire before taking off the drain plug. the reason for no dipstick and no drain is simple - the motor is pretty tough and oil changing isn't really a matter of perfection. If it was designed to last longer, it would have an oil filter at the very least, which small commercial mowers here do have. Just adding an oil filter extends the engine run time before oil consumption is a problem from 500 to 2500 hours (the commercial engines are also sleeved), but it's probably also true that the cost difference between commercial mowers that have an oil filter and consumer mowers could pay for at least 4 more engines.
Not sure what the filter element is, but at least on honda's motors, it's pleated paper, so no oil.
Other than that, there's not much to those motors. If it runs fine and has oil in it, just keep running it.
Honda also requires draining like you say - there's only one way in and one out and it's the same hole unless your mower is an oil burner. That makes draining the oil a good time to sharpen the blade (someone may have said that already - sorry if I didn't read that elsewhere in the thread - the post volume is large.
that leads back to mike's tip remove plug wire before taking off the drain plug. the reason for no dipstick and no drain is simple - the motor is pretty tough and oil changing isn't really a matter of perfection. If it was designed to last longer, it would have an oil filter at the very least, which small commercial mowers here do have. Just adding an oil filter extends the engine run time before oil consumption is a problem from 500 to 2500 hours (the commercial engines are also sleeved), but it's probably also true that the cost difference between commercial mowers that have an oil filter and consumer mowers could pay for at least 4 more engines.
The spark plug looks pristine, like it has never run and doesn't look like the cylinder has oil in it or the plug would be contaminated.
You've explained the creamy stuff in the filter. Just a good squeeze in some kitchen towel will remove the excess.
Hurry up and fire it up. We need to know if it works. I reckon it's fine.
You've explained the creamy stuff in the filter. Just a good squeeze in some kitchen towel will remove the excess.
Hurry up and fire it up. We need to know if it works. I reckon it's fine.
Stevekane
Established Member
The suspense is killing me!!
Steve,,
Steve,,
woodieallen
Established Member
It's called C-cubed. Or similar. Stands for Cheap Chinese C**p
Is it just me, but I think its difficult to filter anything through oil, never heard of an oiled air filter on a lawnmower, and in seventy five years I have owned a few, could it be transport/storage oil/grease that has not been cleaned off before dispatch? Does this so called oil have a smell of any kind?
In my youth white gunge in the oil meant a blown cylinder head gasket, water contamination, but that is not this problem.
In my youth white gunge in the oil meant a blown cylinder head gasket, water contamination, but that is not this problem.
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