New Fence Posts?

[Doug71]

Just lost about 13m of fence in the wind today, all the posts just snapped off at ground level, I thought it was getting a bit wobbly but didn't think it was that bad

It's about a 1.5m high closed board fence (think that's the name), basically featherboard on rails, not panels.

I'm planning on reusing the featherboard, it's a bit scruffy but nicely greyed and will get some new rails, probably use 2.4m rails so 2.4m between the posts.

I'm just wondering what posts to use, I don't want to be doing it again so not keen on wood and don't like the look of concrete, just wondered if anyone has used these?

https://www.wickes.co.uk/DuraPost-Steel-Fence-Post-Anthracite-Grey---55mm-x-54mm-x-2-4m/p/249712#
They seem to get good reviews but sound a bit skinny, only just over 2" square. It's not an exposed area but the fence does have a car park at the other side of it so I was very lucky the fence fell the way it did, although I will be checking the cctv in case any cars gave it an accidental nudge

Any other suggestions welcome.

Thanks, Doug

 

[TRITON]

That you OceanSkipper ?

 

[Spectric]

It's about a 1.5m high closed board fence (

There is your problem, closed board. It just tries to resist the force of the wind and down it goes, what you need is 4 inch post and an open board design so it does not try and stop the wind which can now pass through without exerting a damaging force.

 

[MARK.B.]

Doug, reducing your panels to 1.8m and post holes to suit might be better as 2,4m may just be asking a little to much

 

[Doug71]

@TRITON ???

@Spectric Yes you are right, thing is I really want to keep it matching some other fences.

@MARK.B. The existing one was 2.2m between posts (which I guess failed) and the rails I want come in 2.4m so just thought I would go with that but yes closer would be better. Quick calculation shows about 1850mm would work out about right but means buying an extra fence post I have seen them with the posts 3m apart but they do tend to sag.

Just looked at the old posts and they are rotten through, there are lots of nail holes up the back of them, looks like they are old ceiling joist or something that have been used so probably untreated.

 

[MARK.B.]

Damn tough luck having to buy an extra post ,but think of the money you will save on heating ,when you burn the old posts

 

[mikej460]

I used Concrete Repair Spurs the last time I had to replace a section of fence. I concreted them in using postcrete and they work very well and are hidden on your side by the new posts which bolt onto them above ground. Shop around for cheaper price though as I'm sure I didn't pay what Jewsons are asking. If you're lucky you could cut off the rotten ends of your posts and reuse them.

Supreme Concrete Repair Spur 100 x 100 x 1200mm Grey (jewson.co.uk)

 

[TRITON]

@TRITON ???

Its a similar post that is on a bike forum called Single Track world. Posted close to each other time wise. I know theres already at least one STW forum member on here, and I thought there was another.
He's not keen on the sight of concrete either and didnt want wood as that was the type he'd previously had that the wind had blown down.

It's ok, i've just put two and two together and come up with five

 

[Terry - Somerset]

Recently replaced quite a lot of decaying fence. Used 4" treated posts, rails and overlapped feather board. Whether this is adequate for your needs may depend on how exposed the fence is to wind gusts.
But one major advantage is that the spacing between posts does not need to be fixed - anywhere between 1500-2400m is ok, can avoid having to dig out old posts and postcrete, also avoids tree roots etc in placing new posts.

 

[Geebee]

I recently used 3m duraposts at 3m intervals with featherboard edging with a height of 2m. Was really easy to install by myself.
So far so good. Maybe I went a bit overboard with the holes, but I thought about 3ft in postcrete should keep it sturdy.

They seem pretty tough. And are meant to be rated for the same wind speed as concrete posts.

 

[Richard_C]

But one major advantage is that the spacing between posts does not need to be fixed - anywhere between 1500-2400m is ok, can avoid having to dig out old posts and postcrete, a

A very good point.

I had a lot of sturdy close boarded fencing with a few posts "going" at the bottom. Spent a couple of hours breaking up the concrete at the bottom of one, builder had thrown in bits of flint and all sorts, then it occurred to me to leave all the rest in place and simply put new ones in new holes between the old ones. Worked a treat and saved hours, days even, of labour and much cursing.

 

[Robbo3]

When I replaced my fence I upped the wood post size from 75mm to 100mm even though the old ones had lasted 45 years. At 1.8m high my post holes were 660mm deep to take a 2.4m post with some shingle in the bottom for drainage. Each post was sleeved with a post saver, a plastic wrap covered bitumen which is attached using a blow torch or heat gun.
- Postsaver Shop | Buy Postsaver Post Protector Sleeves Online
Posts were just under £15 each & post savers £2.25

 

[J-G]

Concrete Repair Spurs

Whats wrong with the correct name for these ? They are 'GODFATHERS' !

Not 'Repair' items - they should be used as original equipment for any 'close boarded' fence. The 4 x 3 posts with Arris Rail notches are 'coach bolted' to them with the bottom of the post a few inches above ground.

 

[mikej460]

Whats wrong with the correct name for these ? They are 'GODFATHERS' !

Not 'Repair' items - they should be used as original equipment for any 'close boarded' fence. The 4 x 3 posts with Arris Rail notches are 'coach bolted' to them with the bottom of the post a few inches above ground.

You say tomato..
It this context they are used as repair items but I agree they should be used as original equipment.

 

[Spectric]

thing is I really want to keep it matching some other fences.

So you cannot win over nature, what you need is some of the panels to be only clipped in, now instead of the whole fence going you may lose one or two panels because they get blown out and the force on the rest of the fence is released.

 

[J-G]

You say tomato..

Ah - but I was 'in the trade' - selling concrete products - for some years and am old enough to remember what they were called.

It's a bit like 'Personnel Departments' are now 'HR' ?? why?
or a Dustman is a 'Refuse Operative' !!

 

[Alasdair]

Most square posts even pressure treated wont last as long as the old fashioned treated ones. I know a few fencers and they all say about 5-10years max with some lasting less. You do get guaranteed posts upto 15 years from some companies but chances are they wont be around in 15 years. If its an exposed site I would use round rather than square. Always found them to be stronger. My fence is very exposed and I used 5" round. Been up for about 15 years and the posts are just beginning to fail. It stood upto yesterdays 80 mph gusts ok though. I did stand the ends that would be underground in a mix of 50/50 old engine oil and brown cuprinol for a week before using them. There is also the option of plastic posts but not sure how easy they are to nail into and if I remember they are expensive.
Alasdair

 

[Richard_C]

Whats wrong with the correct name for these ? They are 'GODFATHERS' !

I know them as godfathers but I wonder if it's fallen out of use or if it was regional. He grazed his leg on a godfather as he walked down the snicket. He grazed his leg on a concrete spur as he walked down the alley .... bit like that. Who knows.

It gets blank looks even from fencing contractors round here - neighbour and I got quotes to replace a fence and I asked if they would bolt new posts to the godfathers, both looked at me as if I were mad. Happy to bolt to the concrete spurs though.

 

[Spectric]

Most square posts even pressure treated wont last as long as the old fashioned treated ones.

That is because you can longer buy decent creosote, so what I use is dirty engine oil mixed with diesel and soak the bottom of the post in it.

 

[baldkev]

Id be tempted to try either putting in a long coach screw with a bracket underneath the head, so you can lever it upwards.... if they are that rotten they'll come out and you might be able to drive a 4x4 right back in.
Failing the levering, drill the wood out in the centre, crow bar down the edge and lever the waste inwards.


Posts..... contact a local sawmill and ask if they'll do you sweet chestnut posts. You wont need to replace them in our lifetime