New bandsaw...decision made

[Stevebod]

Hi all, getting a little excited as after "months" of procrastination and lack of general availability my new toy is about to arrive.
By the time I had decided to take the plunge and get a Scheppach Basa 3 they all seemed to have disappeared, so after further procrastination I decided to go for a Record B300, (liked the colour). I would probably only need a 10inch but as everybody on here says always "buy something a bit bigger than you think you will need", I decided to go 12 inches.
These are now back in stock, so hopefully it will be delivered sometime soon....(just need to get the new shed finished!)

 

[Ollie78]

I think you made a good choice, as an owner of the Scheppach Basato 3 which is fine but has niggles, my mate bought the Record and I think its a bit nicer to be honest.

Ollie

 

[Stevebod]

..I had been looking at some Youtube vids on the Shcheppach and value for money it seems like a good buy and I would have been happy to get one. (I am only a (very) casual user).
My old toy Aldi bandsaw has served me well and I have been more than happy with it for what it does, but I just fancied something bigger. Only problem was the Scheppach production has been hit by both covid and Suez so no sign of one anytime soon. You do pay more for the Record so I am hoping it will live up to my expectations, (in the process if getting a Tuffsaw blade for it).

 

[pe2dave]

My BS300 has been faultless over the years. New blades from our friend in Wales though. Rcord ones are nothing to write home about.

 

[sploo]

Definitely. I've got one of the older model BS300 units, and with an M42 blade from Tuffsaws it's an excellent general workhorse. I've also used it for preparing green timber for drying with one of their Sabrecut blades.

The blade tensioning rod/knob could be better, and I put urethane tyres on the wheels after the originals perished, but other than that there's not much I'd criticise.

 

[pe2dave]

Definitely. I've got one of the older model BS300 units, and with an M42 blade from Tuffsaws it's an excellent general workhorse. I've also used it for preparing green timber for drying with one of their Sabrecut blades.

The blade tensioning rod/knob could be better, and I put urethane tyres on the wheels after the originals perished, but other than that there's not much I'd criticise.

I bought new 'rubber' (??) tyres from Record Power. Convinced myself they were too small, spoke to them, eventually brute forced them on - no way could I have done it without youtube help. Were the urethene ones any easier @sploo ?

Agree about the 'lever' - needs LOTS of power to tension the blade. Stripped mine down, greased the offset camber wheel thingy and it's easier. Now takes two men instead of five

 

[RichardG]

I bought new 'rubber' (??) tyres from Record Power. Convinced myself they were too small, spoke to them, eventually brute forced them on - no way could I have done it without youtube help. Were the urethene ones any easier @sploo ?

Agree about the 'lever' - needs LOTS of power to tension the blade. Stripped mine down, greased the offset camber wheel thingy and it's easier. Now takes two men instead of five

I put a roller thrust bearing on mine, transformed the tensioning for less that £3 and took 15 minutes to fit. Why record didn’t fit one from new….

 

[pe2dave]

I put a roller thrust bearing on mine, transformed the tensioning for less that £3 and took 15 minutes to fit. Why record didn’t fit one from new….

In place of the 'cam' that the arm rolls against? Love to hear more detail please @RichardG ?
+1 on Record making it easier.

 

[Stevebod]

I put a roller thrust bearing on mine, transformed the tensioning for less that £3 and took 15 minutes to fit. Why record didn’t fit one from new….

..yes please..any details?

 

[RichardG]

The thrust bearing goes between the frame and adjuster. You can see the edge in the photo showing the 3 parts; bearing lower surface, bearing, bearing upper surface. This means that the only turning resistance is the threads which I use a high pressure grease on. The other key is to loosen the lock nut on the tracking before setting tension.

just need to find one with a 8mm centre hole, I think I used this one. Search for 8mm thrust bearing on eBay.

But I later found a needle bearing which would be thinner but never got round to fitting.

 

[Stevebod]

Hi and ta for the tip.
When you have finished cutting do you slacken off the tensioner each time?....(I usually do on my current bandsaw as I assume it takes the pressure of the wheel bearings when not in use?)

 

[RichardG]

Hi and ta for the tip.
When you have finished cutting do you slacken off the tensioner each time?....(I usually do on my current bandsaw as I assume it takes the pressure of the wheel bearings when not in use?)

I only do this if I have a wide blade fitted and the tension is at it’s max, otherwise I leave as is. I’ve forgotten that I’ve un-tensioned a blade a couple if times and the resulting hassle seemed to outweigh any potential benefits….

 

[sumo2001]

Anyone use the blade for cutting reclaimed timber from tuffsaws please?

 

[Ttrees]

M42 I didn't think much of, but to be fair it got abused on timber with putty, some soft linseed, some real tough like soft stone.
Combined with an unruly bandsaw, caused some issues.
I think it found a wee staple or two aswell.

The blade is a good bit thicker and didn't seem quite as sharp as Ian's other blades.

I'd love to have another go at this blade sometime, and tempted to make some jigs for sharpening and setting blades, as reclaimed is all I work with, and theirs heaps around.

A lot of faff, but would sort out buying soo many blades forever, just the odd time is fine.
That's the only way you're going to be in any way, not much bothered by it, hitting a small tack nail or two will likely toast a blade, A screw and you're frigged.
unless you're Matt Cremona and can make it worth the cost.

Edit: Lennox make a blade supposedly for the job, I wonder if that's what you might be talking about?

Tom

 

[pe2dave]

Hi and ta for the tip.
When you have finished cutting do you slacken off the tensioner each time?....(I usually do on my current bandsaw as I assume it takes the pressure of the wheel bearings when not in use?)

Yes, as advised by the manufacturer - looks after structural as well as tyre wear

 

[MikeJhn]

Yes, as advised by the manufacturer - looks after structural as well as tyre wear

Not to mention blade stretch, compression flattening of the tyre top and bottom causing vibration, personally I think its not just there to allow easier fitting of the blade.

Love the roller bearing mod, will have to source one.

Anyone else looking for the bearing: AXK0821 Needle Roller Thrust Bearing thin washer bearing with 2 AS Washers | eBay

 

[pe2dave]

The thrust bearing goes between the frame and adjuster. You can see the edge in the photo showing the 3 parts; bearing lower surface, bearing, bearing upper surface. This means that the only turning resistance is the threads which I use a high pressure grease on. The other key is to loosen the lock nut on the tracking before setting tension.



just need to find one with a 8mm centre hole, I think I used this one. Search for 8mm thrust bearing on eBay.


But I later found a needle bearing which would be thinner but never got round to fitting.

Am I misunderstanding you @RichardG - This to 'ease' the turning of the 'setting' knob on top, rather than the tensioning lever on the back of the saw?
It is the latter I have problems with, seldom touching the 'setting' knob (whatever its called).

 

[RichardG]

Am I misunderstanding you @RichardG - This to 'ease' the turning of the 'setting' knob on top, rather than the tensioning lever on the back of the saw?
It is the latter I have problems with, seldom touching the 'setting' knob (whatever its called).

In my parlance the top knob is the tensioning control, the knob on the back is the blade alignment control?

So my mod helps the tensioning control on the top, haven’t had a problem with my alignment knob at the back but then I did put high pressure grease on all threads when I did the top mod so perhaps that has saved me?

 

[pe2dave]

Ah! (durned terminology). 3 items now
Top knob (your tensioning, my 'setting')
Back knob (yep wheel alignment though surely?)
third one - on BS300 - a lever which applies tension to the blade when pulled through ~ 180 degs?

What model is yours please @RichardG

 

[RichardG]

I have the 300e which doesn’t have the quick release tensioning lever, mores the pity. I originally wanted a RP BS350 but the 300e came up used so I bought it as a stop gap until I found a decent used 350, but still haven’t got round to changing. Probably go for a Sabre 350 now but the prices are crazy, I was offered new Sabre 350 with stand for £950 just before lockdown, now wishing I’d taken it!!