New Backsaw recommendations?

[Anonymous]

Hi people,

I am looking for some informed opinion on some new purchases I have to make.

I need a good Tenon saw and a fine Dovetail saw, these will be used only for carcase joint work.

I really don't want any "designer label" types just decent saws that will respond to my technique.

Thanks for reading.

 

[Philly]

Hi Haze
Welcome to the forum!
What sort of budget are you thinking of?
Philly

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks Philly, no set budget but at the same time looking for value for money.

Good sturdy saws that can carry out their function.
I just plan to cut wood with them, other than that they will be of no value to me, I am not a collector or investor etc.

I had Drabble & Sanderson's until recently, workshop got broken into and the rest is history.

 

[Ian Dalziel]

Hazewood,
there are a few makers still around....Pax....Roberts and Lee...etc. Axminster do their victor range which is pax i beleive.
worth considering japanese as well.



Ian

 

[Philly]

Haze
Aminster do a selection here. As Ian said, I believe their "Victor" range are made by Thomas Flinn, so a good saw for a good price.
The Lie-Nielsen saws are twice the price but they are SO good. As are the Adria ones.......
Hope this is of help?
Philly

 

[David C]

A few years ago I got a 10" Roberts and Lee dovetail saw, which was not bad at all, try Tilgear.

One common problem is too much, or uneven set. but this is relatively easy to fix by stoning off the excess with a fine slipstone.

Have recently ordered a dovetail saw from Mike Wenzlof (Spelling?) and expect this to be very good indeed for thin hardwood, 5/16" or less. This is not a cheap option, but dovetail saws are not purchased often.

The Sun Child Dozuki, from Thanet tools is a great saw and works much better, for dovetailing in hardwood, than any other mass produced Japanese model we have ever tried. Very reasonable at about £30 ish.

So many Dozukis sold here are designed for crosscutting softwood.

best wishes,
David Charlesworth

 

[Alf]

Welcome to the forum, hazewood. Been debating how best to answer this one, and on reflection I think buying a Western hand saw boils down to this:

If you can do a little DIY saw doctoring, or have a tame one handy, then the saw world is the mollusc of your choice, old or new. If you don't care about handle shape or have no objection to a little rasp work, that opens up your options even further into new models. Either way, you're looking at a certain amount of tuning. If you can't do any of these things but want a saw ready to use with a comfy handle, then "designer label" is the way to go. Or a lucky secondhand find. The choice depends on what you're comfortable doing and how tool fussy you are really. :wink:

Japanese saws are a closed Sushi Bar to me

Cheers, Alf

 

[bugbear]

You may (or may not) remember me referring to the best saw doctor I've ever seen at Tony Murland's auction.

Anyway, he was there again.

Relevant to this thread, he was selling a load of vintage (1880 - 1950) hand saws, and a new Roberts and Lee handsaw.

He said that the steel in the Roberts & Lee was superb, and a pleasure to work with.

(He didn't say much about the saw, one way or the other, just the steel).

Just "info for the mix"

BugBear

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks for all the input, everything I have read makes sense.

I think I am too old to change to Japanese saws, after 35 years holding a particular handle type it becomes an extension of the arm!

Alf, I usually give half a day every week - 10 days over to tool and workshop maintenance.
To fully understand how a tool works you have to be able change its nappy when it starts grunting at you

Whilst I am sure there are many quality 2nd hand saws to be purchased I would feel safer buying a new one from an established source.
I am not sure if 2nd hand goods are covered by "consumer rights" etc.

At this point I am leaning towards Roberts and Lee. They have a tradition and reputation in the business, plus the fact they are local.

Thanks to all for marking my card!

 

[bugbear]

...
To fully understand how a tool works you have to be able change its nappy when it starts grunting at you
.
.
.
Whilst I am sure there are many quality 2nd hand saws to be purchased I would feel safer buying a new one from an established source.
I am not sure if 2nd hand goods are covered by "consumer rights" etc.

If you buy a trad (i.e. non hard point) saw, you going to have to find a sharpening service, or teach yourself.

Judging by your first statement, you incline to the latter.

As such, if you do a little research (or ask here) you can rapidly learn enough to evaluate second hand saws, and revive them.

(short version - nice curvy comfy handle with no woodworm, straight blade, handle tight on blade = buy it!)

Whilst car-boot saws aren't covered by regs, if you know enough, you should normallty get a good 'un, and with prices at 3-10 pounds, you get several bites at the cherry before you're totally out of pocket.

In the second hand market 20 quid should get you a vintage classic in good order (not sharpened) from a full time tool dealer.

That's good value.

BugBear

 

[Anonymous]

You must enter a message when posting

 

[bugbear]

... local saw doctor.... Had to pay another £3 to have it sharpened and set -

If I had a local saw doctor who did a decent job for 3 quid, I'd never have learnt either.

BugBear (whose local services were poor *and* charged more than 3 quid)

 

[Keefaz]

Hmmm... just about on topic. I bought a couple of old tenon saws at the weekend and they're as blunt as a cobble. Inititally, I thought I'd be able to learn to sharpen them myself, but I'm beginning to wonder if I've got either the time or patience to learn. Does anyone know a good saw doctor near Newcastle/Tyneside?

 

[Alf]

If I had a local saw doctor who did a decent job for 3 quid, I'd never have learnt either.

If I had a saw doctor who did any job at all for 3 quid, I wouldn't have learnt either... :roll:

Actually I was thinking about that the other day. All ye ancient texts say "yea, verily, take it to the saw doctor" so why are there so many secondhand saw sets to be found? My profound thought for the day - please, no applause... :wink:

Cheers, Alf

P.S. Also I know the difference between rip and crosscut, and he didn't.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Where are all these saw doctors anyway :? I saw one once years ago at the Woodworker Show at Ally Pally - an old boy with glasses and one peculiar eye, but blimey he could sharpen a saw quickly. Was going to send a saw to him once but lost his card. Loads of articles I've read tell you to send your saw to a saw doctor but nobody ever tells you who or where they are :? Anyone have any recommendations?

Paul

 

[Anonymous]

You must enter a message when posting

 

[Anonymous]

You must enter a message when posting

 

[Alf]

Paul, there is actually a Saw Doctor Association, but it does seem to be primarily concerned with machinery. My own nearby saw doctor was a founding member, which possibly tells you a lot given my experience related above. They do my planer blades beautifully though. Used to be the local ironmongers had some old fellow in a dusty corner somewhere they could send hand saws to for hand filing, although those chaps are dying out leaving us all high and dry, but you might be lucky. If you still have a local ironmongers...

I dunno, maybe I should stop mucking about and advertise my services. :lol:

Cheers, Alf

 

[MikeW]

...I dunno, maybe I should stop mucking about and advertise my services. :lol:

Cheers, Alf

Can you say, Tool Money? :lol:

Take care, Mike

 

[Paul Chapman]

Paul, there is actually a Saw Doctor Association, but it does seem to be primarily concerned with machinery.

Thanks for that, Alf. Perhaps the best way forward is to learn how to do it. Could be a good topic for discussion at Philly's get-together next month if any of those who are going know how it's done...... 8-[ 8-[

Paul