Need help matching a finish to a shop bought item

[The Bear]

Ok cards on the table to start with, I know nothing about finishing other than ragging on some oil or painting stuff, so please help. A couple of years ago we bought an oak filing cabinet and matching set of drawers (long before I had the space, tools, confidence to build my own). This is the filing cabinet, the photos are reasonably accurate colour wise

I am now fitting some oak shelves into an alcove in the same room and want them to match, finish wise, as best as possible. I have rung the shop but they have changed hands and changed suppliers. Needless to say the bloke I spoke with was of little use. When I bought these we were given a small pot of clear bees wax by a company called Cambridge. I can't really remember but assume they gave me this for repairs/further protection etc.

Having done a bit of searching on the forum I am both confused and torn with what to try. So any ideas how to match the finish, I know its near impossible to see from the photos but what do you all think. Some sort of sanding sealer with clear wax on top? Something else? I think I can get more of the wax if needed or am willing to buy from another supplier. I don't mind a bit of hard work on this but don't want to really go down the line of mixing my own "potions". The bottom shelve will be deeper and used as an occasional desk so there is an element of needing to be up to this.
So basically, what would you do? Please help

Mark

 

[Matt@]

well first of all, I would wipe part of your new shelves over with a copious amount of meths and see what colour the timber shows up as. If the colour shown under wet meths is close enough to the other item as to be ok, then you just need to apply a clear finish of some kind. In this case, I would use shellac sanding sealer and apply with a mop, one coat only, flatten with 1200 grit wet and dry used dry, then 0000 wire wool and then wax. If the colour when swabbed with meths is lighter compared to the other item, I'd leave the newly made piece with no finish on for a couple of months in front of a window which will make the oak go slightly darker. Wipe with meths again after those 2 months to see if the colour match is better. If still miles out, you will have to stain (whole different ball game, come back for more advice then)

 

[The Bear]

Thanks for the reply. Couple of Q's in response
Can I use anything other than than meths to check the colour as I've not got any? White spirit? Water?
What is a mop?
I have found some Shellac sanding sealer in the shed, no idea why I have it as I've never used it. It's obviously been there for years, so does it "go off" or will it be OK?
Will the steel wool be OK, read that it would leave black blotches on oak?
Sorry if the Q's seem stupid

Mark

 

[Chems]

Dont use steel wool! Its horrible stuff, ruined a small oak project I did recently!

 

[Matt@]

Thanks for the reply. Couple of Q's in response
Can I use anything other than than meths to check the colour as I've not got any? White spirit? Water?
What is a mop?
I have found some Shellac sanding sealer in the shed, no idea why I have it as I've never used it. It's obviously been there for years, so does it "go off" or will it be OK?
Will the steel wool be OK, read that it would leave black blotches on oak?
Sorry if the Q's seem stupid

Mark

Mop as in polishing mop, squirrel hair or similar. White spirit instead of meths, don't use water. Shellac degrades with age so ensure you use newly bought. Steel wool would be ok if used on the dry shellac finish but ensure its dead smooth first by sanding - better to use the wax polish as a lubricant. One coat looks good, more than one coat and it starts laying up unevenly.