Nails or screws for garden gate

[Iggy78]

What kind of fixing would you recommend for a ledge and brace tongue and groove garden gate. Would you use screws or ring shank nails?

I've come across some gates where the tongue and groove boards are fixed with screws from the rear. Are there any pros or cons to fixing boards using screws from the rear of the gate as opposed to using nails from the front?

any advice appreciated.

 

[Dee J]

Nailed through from the front with nails clenched over on the ledges is traditional, resiliant and works with thin stock. Screw construction with screws driven from the rail side gives a clean finish, but needs thicker boards to get enough depth to hold.

 

[Iggy78]

Nailed through from the front with nails clenched over on the ledges is traditional, resiliant and works with thin stock. Screw construction with screws driven from the rail side gives a clean finish, but needs thicker boards to get enough depth to hold.

I've got 19mm boards with 30 mm rails. Would 45mm screws from rear provide enough hold?

 

[Dee J]

I've got 19mm boards with 30 mm rails. Would 45mm screws from rear provide enough hold?

Could do. It's all a bit marginal. A lot depends on choice of screw and quality of timber. Hardwood, careful pilot drilling (with depth stop) and screws with quite a blunt form with plenty of thread near the tip and it would be fine. Quick grown softwood and self drilling sharply pointed screw less so.

 

[Iggy78]

Could do. It's all a bit marginal. A lot depends on choice of screw and quality of timber. Hardwood, careful pilot drilling (with depth stop) and screws with quite a blunt form with plenty of thread near the tip and it would be fine. Quick grown softwood and self drilling sharply pointed screw less so.

could get a 50mm screw snip the sharp point off to give more thread.

 

[Dee J]

could get a 50mm screw snip the sharp point off to give more thread.

That might work, though many modern screws are hardened and will play havoc with your cutting tools. Traditional form screws are still available and work well if you take the time to drill pilot, clearance and countersink. Slotted Steel CSK wood screws

 

[Seascaper]

What kind of fixing would you recommend for a ledge and brace tongue and groove garden gate. Would you use screws or ring shank nails?

I've come across some gates where the tongue and groove boards are fixed with screws from the rear. Are there any pros or cons to fixing boards using screws from the rear of the gate as opposed to using nails from the front?

any advice appreciated.

You can use either but make sure the screws or nails are galvanised. The screws you use should be A4 316 stainless steel, anything less will rust.

 

[clogs]

with a few exceptions.....why use a nail when a screw will do the job better...
they are relatively cheap now along with a drill driver etc....no effort at all....

 

[sawtooth-9]

Try bolts - little ones work better and easier !

 

[Jameshow]

What kind of fixing would you recommend for a ledge and brace tongue and groove garden gate. Would you use screws or ring shank nails?

I've come across some gates where the tongue and groove boards are fixed with screws from the rear. Are there any pros or cons to fixing boards using screws from the rear of the gate as opposed to using nails from the front?

any advice appreciated.

I wouldn't use screws as most these days are hardened and with a bit of movement from the timber will snap.

Galvanised nails every day...

 

[Iggy78]

I wouldn't use screws as most these days are hardened and with a bit of movement from the timber will snap.

Galvanised nails every day...

Could use stainless steel screws. It's more likely the timber will break than the screw as its pressure treated softwood.

I've seen traditional gates built with oak screwed from the back and then plugged to give a clean finish.

Seems like old timers prefer nails over screws.

 

[TheTiddles]

For a softwood gate I’d use ring-shank nails, screws are overkill and more visually obtrusive as well as less secure, they won’t break though, the wood will give way long before.

If it’s hardwood I’d probably screw and plug.

 

[Iggy78]

For a softwood gate I’d use ring-shank nails, screws are overkill and more visually obtrusive as well as less secure, they won’t break though, the wood will give way long before.

If it’s hardwood I’d probably screw and plug.

If screwed from the back I don't see any issue with security.

 

[TheTiddles]

19mm board, you’ll be using 10-12mm of the screw to grip and that’s the pointy bit, in a softwood? I could probably peel that away with my fingers.

 

[Iggy78]

19mm board, you’ll be using 10-12mm of the screw to grip and that’s the pointy bit, in a softwood? I could probably peel that away with my fingers.

As my earlier post I could snip the pointy bit so I've plenty of thread and I've tested on a scrap piece with the pointy bit intact screwing down approx 15mm and I couldn't even pull it out with a claw hammer.

 

[Doug71]

It's generally best to try and fix the thin bit to the thick bit whenever possible if that makes sense.

 

[Gant]

I just replaced a garden gate that had reached the end of its natural life. 19mm softwood screwed from the back. When I pulled it apart, about 60% of the screws had snapped due to the movement of the wood.

 

[Iggy78]

I just replaced a garden gate that had reached the end of its natural life. 19mm softwood screwed from the back. When I pulled it apart, about 60% of the screws had snapped due to the movement of the wood.

Ok...seen as most of you are advocating use of nails, I'll use nails. My stock is 19mm boards with approx 30-32mm rails. The only round head ring shank nails I can find are 50mm x 2.65. The next size down is 40mm.

Ideally I'd have preferred a 45mm but cant find any. The only ones available are the tacwise nail gun coils and I don't have a nail gun.

Would the 50mm ones do if I were to blunt the tips slightly or what about the 40mm ones, would those be too short?