My Tormek needs a new stone - any advice?

[cambournepete]

Hello all,

I have an old Tormek 1200 grinder - the old style machine with the 8" (200mm) wheel. It's an old wheel which pre-dates the current SG-200 model, so I've no idea how it compares to the new stone.
The wheel is now down to 160mm diameter, so I'm thinking I need to replace it soon, but what with?

There are a couple of mentions of alternatives on this forum - the Peter Child micro-crystalline stones and a diamond stone but no real opinions on them. I've found a couple of diamond stones (from Classic Hand Tools and TJ-Tools/Toolpost).
I've also found other stones on Dieter Schmidt's site.

I use the Tormek mainly for turning tools, so I've discounted the Tormek Japanese stones (also they're not cheap!).

What stone do people recommend?

And I don't (think I) want a Pro-edge , I spent too much on Tormek jigs...

 

[Blister]

Hi Pete ,

I have 2 Tormek machines , one has the Grey sandstone wheel ( Very soft ) I only use this for carpentry chisels and plane irons

The second one has a Peter Child Blue micro-crystalline wheel ( Again soft ish ) used for turning tools

I was going to buy a diamond wheel but was told its not for shaping , you have to do that on a grinder first

Both of the above are not for re shaping tools as the wear rate is too high

Both are only for sharpening a profile that you already have


90% of my shaping and sharpening is done on the Pro edge

60 grit zerconi belt for shaping , once the shape is done , it takes seconds to swap belts to the 120 ceramic to re sharpen

And the settings are spot on EVERY time , you get a repeatable bevel EVERY time ,

So less chisel is ground away

also the Sorby belts are about £4.00 each and last well , as apposed to £90 odd for a micro-crystalline wheel

Pro Edge is for me , so see if you can sell the Tormek and jigs

I can say you wont regret it :lol: :wink: :wink:

 

[tekno.mage]

I replaced the very soft wheel that came with my Scheppach wet grinder (which is a much cheaper Tormek clone) with a Peter Childs Microcrystalline wheel which I have been very please with for use on HSS turning tools. It is much harder than the original wheel that came with the Scheppach (which wore into a groove after the first fingernail sharpening of a gouge!) I keep the old soft wheel for sharpening plane blades.

However, as Blister says, the Microcrystalline wheel is really best kept for sharpening, rather than shaping (unless you have an awful lot of time to spare!!!!)

When I bought mine a couple of years ago, the only affordable options were either the harder wheel from Tormek or the Microcrystalline wheel - which at £65 was half the price of the Tormek offering. Had a diamond coated wheel been easily available then at similar cost, I might well have been tempted to get one of those as they have the benefit of never needing truing (although I rarely have to true my Microcrystalline wheel with a diamond device as I find sharpening a couple of kitchen knives or an axe on it will flatten it nicely).

One of the members of our turning club upgraded his Tormek with a diamond coated stone (not sure which type) and despite his initial reservations about the diamonds wearing off very quickly is still happy with it after a year or so.

 

[cambournepete]

Thanks both.
I should probably have mentioned that I have a Creusen 8" grinder with red O'Donnell wheels that I'll use for shaping the tools once I've got the extra Tormek base so the Tormek itself will just be used for sharpening.

 

[cambournepete]

So I to CT yesterday, having convinced myself that I could justify a new T7.

I spoke to Martin Brown (Brimarc) who said that my stone would be fine for ages yet and also gave me suggestions as to how to improve the drive to the wheel (it slips a bit sometimes).

I ended up just getting an SVS-50 jig and a base to use the Tormek rest (and jigs) with the grinder.

Thanks Martin - nice to deal with someone who doesn't make you buy what you don't need

 

[Richard863]

Having used my Tormek 2000 for long spells when I then needed to or had the inclination to grind and hone every tool in the workshop. I ofter had to run the diamond resurfacing tool to level the stone my first stone was so worn it only just made the water. My second stone seemed to wear a lot faster, so I got my grown up children to buy me a a diamond faced wheel from T_J tools this works great and you don't get that awful grey soup slop in the trough. Should have got one before. 8) 8)

Richard

 

[ColeyS1]

I'll also sing the praises of the diamond wheel- compared to the wheel that came with it. I assume you've stuck a magnet on the side of the water trough Richard so it catches all the metal waste ?
Welcome to the forum by the way

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

[tobytools]

Some advice on stones.
http://www.peterchild.co.uk/grind/grindinfo.htm

Like they say it's all about the stone

Hopenthis helps

TT

 

[Glynne]

how to improve the drive to the wheel (it slips a bit sometimes)

What was the advice you got please as mine does that as well?

Glynne

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

The generally accepted technique for a Tormek slipping drive wheel is to unscrew and take off the honing wheel and the with the machine switched on, take 80 -100 grit sandpaper and just rough up the wheel tyre a little. That extra friction should be enough to improve the drive. Whilst its undone check the shaft for gunk and if mucky give it a wipe with a fresh cloth dipped in meths.

 

[Richard863]

My wheel was continually slipping until I made two washers out of old car tyre inertube now no slip.

Thanks for the message ColeyS21 yes the magnet stuck on the outside of the trough was the first thing I did.

Richard

 

[cambournepete]

It's weird when one of your old threads reappears!

I sold the tormek before coming out to NZ, but I did buy a CBN stone for the Creusen.