builderchad
Established Member
I was looking at drill press vices but after a discussion on the forum and a pic from Alice I decided to make my own.
I used two of the smallest toggle clamps available from Axminster and because of the high fence I needed to make my own hold down arms using pine as the stoppers. I will find decent rubber matting and remake them as the wood doesn't offer enough grip on the workpiece. I had to cut away a bit of the fence to allow the plunge arms to rotate past when the table is raised high.
I also made a simple stop using a sliding dovetail (badly cut cause my router got away on me). The fence is actually quite poor as it is sapwood of some sort so I do plan on replacing it. I will also get some M4 wingnuts to use on the stop so its more convenient to reposition and lock in place. Having it lets me remove the workpiece, change bits and put the workpiece back knowing fully well that it will line up perfectly on the previous mark.
I am using M6 rod with wingnuts which allows me to adjust the depth of the fence.
The hold down arms are a tad long so I will chop them down a bit so they dont come into contact with the drill body when the table is raised. Here is a workpiece being held:
Not the most versatile but a good start and has given me lots of good ideas for my next version. For one, I want a two part fence on each side of a cutout so the table can run past the drill post and hence give me maximum throat depth. I also think a couple more toggle clamps wouldn't go amiss as the drill vibrates a lot. Another toggle mounted on the front of the table to hold the workpiece hard against the fence would also be great.
Cheers, Chad.
I used two of the smallest toggle clamps available from Axminster and because of the high fence I needed to make my own hold down arms using pine as the stoppers. I will find decent rubber matting and remake them as the wood doesn't offer enough grip on the workpiece. I had to cut away a bit of the fence to allow the plunge arms to rotate past when the table is raised high.
I also made a simple stop using a sliding dovetail (badly cut cause my router got away on me). The fence is actually quite poor as it is sapwood of some sort so I do plan on replacing it. I will also get some M4 wingnuts to use on the stop so its more convenient to reposition and lock in place. Having it lets me remove the workpiece, change bits and put the workpiece back knowing fully well that it will line up perfectly on the previous mark.
I am using M6 rod with wingnuts which allows me to adjust the depth of the fence.
The hold down arms are a tad long so I will chop them down a bit so they dont come into contact with the drill body when the table is raised. Here is a workpiece being held:
Not the most versatile but a good start and has given me lots of good ideas for my next version. For one, I want a two part fence on each side of a cutout so the table can run past the drill post and hence give me maximum throat depth. I also think a couple more toggle clamps wouldn't go amiss as the drill vibrates a lot. Another toggle mounted on the front of the table to hold the workpiece hard against the fence would also be great.
Cheers, Chad.
