MY NEW WOODBURNER
- Thread starter Grahamshed
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custard
Established Member
I'm interested! Keep us posted. Also what's the KW rating and what's the room dimensions that it'll heat?
I've just had a long debate with the builder who's building my new workshop and extending the house I've just bought. I'd originally planned two woodburners, each with back boilers. But he said that at 12KW they'd be way too hot for the average sized rooms they'd sit in. So eventually I've accepted his arguments and gone for 6KW (with background underfloor heating) and no back boilers. I've also got a 4KW woodburner in the workshop's bench room, but as it's about 1 metre from the end of the main workbench I'm also concerned that make it a bit too toasty!
I've just had a long debate with the builder who's building my new workshop and extending the house I've just bought. I'd originally planned two woodburners, each with back boilers. But he said that at 12KW they'd be way too hot for the average sized rooms they'd sit in. So eventually I've accepted his arguments and gone for 6KW (with background underfloor heating) and no back boilers. I've also got a 4KW woodburner in the workshop's bench room, but as it's about 1 metre from the end of the main workbench I'm also concerned that make it a bit too toasty!
Grahamshed
Established Member
It is a 10 kw Oakfire 2 which is way to big really for my 24x11feet workshop but the KW rating of these things seems a bit farcical. The heat output is solely dependent on what you burn on it. I went for a bit taller one than I probably needed to save to much bending, dont have to fill it up unless its minus 20 out there.
Grahamshed":14rc5x4i said:
Can I suggest you get a carbon monoxide alarm ? For peace of mind ?
This is my first winter with a woodburning stove, so research I did indicated it's money well spent, (less than £20, Amazon etc).
I was amazed at how much heat it chucks out, and how much wood is for free.
Happy installation
Grahamshed
Established Member
Yes ?Hutzul":pw0ekivv said:
I had always associated them with gas fires but if it applies to all fires then yes, you make a good point.
Webby
Established Member
I have also just had a woodburner installed in my lounge a Stovax ....and it certainly chucks out the heat so much so we had the door open so that the heat could go up the stairs lol
We had an alarm fitted as well i think its compulsory
Dave "Toasty" lol
We had an alarm fitted as well i think its compulsory
Dave "Toasty" lol
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
When I bought our multi fuel ( a Clearview), I was told to work out the size needed for the room, then buy the next size down. I thought this odd, so questioned it - the lady said (quite correctly) that full output is rarely needed so I'd spend my time trying to damp the stove down; they burn more efficiently and cleanly when at maximum output. Ten years later I'd say she was right.
The Clearview is a good stove, but if I bought again I would go for something like Jacob's Dowling (another thread) - in ten years we've spent probably £500 on firebricks, grates and baffles.
Incidentally, I have a small fan on the hearth blowing past mine, and a small bathroom fan at ceiling height at the other end of the room, blowing heat out into the stairwell. Works really well.
The Clearview is a good stove, but if I bought again I would go for something like Jacob's Dowling (another thread) - in ten years we've spent probably £500 on firebricks, grates and baffles.
Incidentally, I have a small fan on the hearth blowing past mine, and a small bathroom fan at ceiling height at the other end of the room, blowing heat out into the stairwell. Works really well.
condeesteso
Established Member
I'd be interested in the installation, as I have a lovely old stove waiting to be fitted and have been put off by the cost of the flue, and the fact that the upper part of my workshop is timber. (Is that irrational, the whole place is full of wood anyway.)
And, as for Custard's set-up... :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
And, as for Custard's set-up... :mrgreen: :mrgreen:
Don't know if your workshop is insulated, but if it is, experience suggests that 10kW will probably cook you! Our entire house is heated by a 4.5kW Morso Squirrel, and the living-room/kitchen alone is something like 24 feet by 18 feet. OK, the house is incredibly well insulated and has forced ventilation with heat recovery, but the point about running wood stoves fairly hard for reasonable efficiency still holds. There's also the question of getting the stove going; the previous owners of the house had a huge Vermont Castings stove and it took about an hour to heat the stove itself from cold; the Squirrel is chucking out heat in minutes.
Might be worth doing a rough heat loss calculation before you install the stove, just in case you are seriously overdoing it.
Might be worth doing a rough heat loss calculation before you install the stove, just in case you are seriously overdoing it.
mailee
Established Member
OH YES VERY MUCH! I am teetering on the brink of getting one for this winter as I am fed up of being numb and losing too much PVA. Definitely a WIP on this one thanks. :wink:
MARK.B.
Established Member
Hope you do Graham,look forward to seeing the pictures
custard":1rybgz0b said:
I'm no expert, but I think your builder is right i.e. 12 kw would cook you. I would be tempted to add a back burner next summer, presumably to give domestic hot water and/or central heating.
I will be looking at adding a back boiler, in the future, but as I have a combi boiler, not sure how to work it yet, or even if it's feasible.
Mailee, best thing I've done lately, go for it .
Condeesteso, if you plan to put the flue through a wooden ceiling/roof, I would cut a hole with 6" clearance all round and use a 2 or 3mm thick steel plate to prevent flue from touching wood. My stove is an old one, Dovre make, about 5kw, had to totally refurbish it, but it looks the dog's spheroids now.
Phil.p, what type of fan do you have please '....small fan on the hearth blowing past mine,......' ? I was going to try this out.
I still have to decorate the room after installing my stove, but gonna be warmer than last year, and decorating can wait :roll:
Dusty
Established Member
Hello all ......if it is of any help , I have just taken the back boiler out of a stove I have just bought .The stove is for the house so no need for a back boiler as I have no pipes to accommodate .The back boiler is approx 12"long and 6" High . If you want it , it is yours , other wise it is being scrapped .
Also , yes a 12KW will turn you in to a prune , you will find that unlike C/H it is a constant heat and you will soon be opening windows . If you do go through a roof ideally you want to do that with twin walled flue and a heat collar or line it with fire check board .
Cheers Sam
Also , yes a 12KW will turn you in to a prune , you will find that unlike C/H it is a constant heat and you will soon be opening windows . If you do go through a roof ideally you want to do that with twin walled flue and a heat collar or line it with fire check board .
Cheers Sam
Grahamshed
Established Member
I really do not understand these KW ratings for a woodburning stove.
Firstly - if they are like anything else in life they are hopelessly exaggerated. No ?
Secondly - The heat output is solely related to the amount of wood that is being burnt. If the room gets to hot dont put so much wood on. No ?
Thirdly - For every time I have read/heard that woodburners should be used hard I have also read/heard that they are like cars and should only occasionally be used at full speed. Again, if they get to hot don't build the fire up so high. If the chimney soots up because of this then sweeping more often can only be a good thing. No ?
Just my feelings and I am happy for those who know more ( not difficult ) to jump on them.
Firstly - if they are like anything else in life they are hopelessly exaggerated. No ?
Secondly - The heat output is solely related to the amount of wood that is being burnt. If the room gets to hot dont put so much wood on. No ?
Thirdly - For every time I have read/heard that woodburners should be used hard I have also read/heard that they are like cars and should only occasionally be used at full speed. Again, if they get to hot don't build the fire up so high. If the chimney soots up because of this then sweeping more often can only be a good thing. No ?
Just my feelings and I am happy for those who know more ( not difficult ) to jump on them.
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
Hutzul - just a little desk fan, sometimes a 10" one in winter when a bit more circulation is needed
As the OP says, the ratings of woodburners are a bit notional but usually refer to the maximum heat output. There is probably a DIN or other standard for the way it's measured, but from experience, the ratings seem pretty accurate in general.
While it's true that the output is to some extent controllable, it's not the same precision as with oil/gas/electricity, and the range over which you can vary the OP is not great. Obviously, you don't want to have the air supply wide open so that the stove is glowing red (DAMHIKT!) but trying to run the stove very low can be tricky, depending on the exact fuel being used (soft/hard wood, dry/less dry), how well the stove is made and how often you check it. All too easy for it to choke itself out if you shut it down too far. Combustion is also less complete with limited air supply, so as noted, you need to keep a check on the chimney.
Overall, I would strongly recommend not going for a stove which is seriously over-sized.
While it's true that the output is to some extent controllable, it's not the same precision as with oil/gas/electricity, and the range over which you can vary the OP is not great. Obviously, you don't want to have the air supply wide open so that the stove is glowing red (DAMHIKT!) but trying to run the stove very low can be tricky, depending on the exact fuel being used (soft/hard wood, dry/less dry), how well the stove is made and how often you check it. All too easy for it to choke itself out if you shut it down too far. Combustion is also less complete with limited air supply, so as noted, you need to keep a check on the chimney.
Overall, I would strongly recommend not going for a stove which is seriously over-sized.
I have been lighting my stove for a few days now and can recommend getting a stove flue pipe thermometer like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/STOVE-FLUE-PIPE ... 149&sr=8-5.
Mine came with a fine wire to tie it to the flue pipe and it has helped me to optimize heat output, and prevent overheating etc. They sell these gauges all over the internet and even high street shops.
An excellent buy in my opinion
Mine came with a fine wire to tie it to the flue pipe and it has helped me to optimize heat output, and prevent overheating etc. They sell these gauges all over the internet and even high street shops.
An excellent buy in my opinion
Phil Pascoe
Established Member
That's nearly the same as ours, but we were told by the stove supplier to put it on the front of the stove above the door. The body of the stove would be hotter than the flue? I'm not sure, and ours has gone walkabout so I can't try it out.
Grahamshed
Established Member
My apologies for the delay in the WIP on installing this. I hurt my back and although it is better now I have to catch up on the other stuff first.
