Moving on to hardwood

[sickasapike]

Hi all, I've been learning capentry for maybe six months now, mainly building storage, jigs, tables etc for my workshop from ply, MDF and rough stuff with pallet wood etc.

Now I've got a working shop I'm starting on the flat itself, so using nice hardwoods for the first time in anger and now it does matter if it's not quite right; maple first but I also have some oak, cherry and some timber that smells really nice that I can't remember the name of.

I was wondering what tips folk might have for somebody who is used to pallet wood and mdf/ply boards, now shifting to the nice stuff.

It's all been stacked with air gaps on a big rack in my lounge for the last few months so should be pretty dry, the maple is already treated, it all came from a kitchen somebody took out, but a lot of the rest is quite raw.

Of course, there are zillions of techniques I can learn but I'm more thinking of tips like 'slow the router down a bit for the harder stuff' and that sort of thing (err, if that's true). I've already resolved to measure three times instead of two !

 

[woodbrains]

Hi all, I've been learning capentry for maybe six months now, mainly building storage, jigs, tables etc for my workshop from ply, MDF and rough stuff with pallet wood etc.

Now I've got a working shop I'm starting on the flat itself, so using nice hardwoods for the first time in anger and now it does matter if it's not quite right; maple first but I also have some oak, cherry and some timber that smells really nice that I can't remember the name of.

I was wondering what tips folk might have for somebody who is used to pallet wood and mdf/ply boards, now shifting to the nice stuff.

It's all been stacked with air gaps on a big rack in my lounge for the last few months so should be pretty dry, the maple is already treated, it all came from a kitchen somebody took out, but a lot of the rest is quite raw.

Of course, there are zillions of techniques I can learn but I'm more thinking of tips like 'slow the router down a bit for the harder stuff' and that sort of thing (err, if that's true). I've already resolved to measure three times instead of two !

Hello,

Don't slow the router down for harder stuff, but take more, shallower passes to get to the final depth. Speed control is generally down to cutter diameter, bigger diameter lower speed, irrespective of the material being used.

Mike.

 

[sickasapike]

Don't slow the router down for harder stuff, but take more, shallower passes to get to the final depth

Nice one, thanks.

 

[AndyT]

Have a good read of this tremendously helpful post from Custard, which covers a lot more than where to buy:

how-to-buy-hardwoods-t107912.html

 

[RobinBHM]

Marking out!

Learn to mark out everything you do. Get a consistent method going.

For example, if a piece needs a rebate, then scribble where the rebate goes, or write rebate.

If you have a pile of bits to machine, put them all in the same direction so you can pick them up without thinking. That way when you are machining, you only have to concentrate on that alone.

Be prepared for wastage on hardwood. Some timbers have lots of sap etc

 

[Mr T]

For working hardwoods sharp tools and accuracy are paramount. I also think timber selection is more important, spend more time over choosing which boards match up in a panel for example and getting continuity of grain along a set of rails perhaps.

Also screws need pilot holes in hardwood!

Chris

 

[thetyreman]

first you need to ask yourself, why do you think hardwoods are a step up? I think softwood is under rated, buying redwood pine is very different to getting free pallet wood with nails, cracks and splits in it, admittedly there are times where having a hardwood is more practical for hard wearing things, but most of the time, pine can do the same thing and is a lot cheaper, poplar is a good cheap hardwood for practicing on, that you can paint over, save the cherry and maple for really high end work.

 

[Orraloon]

I think overall hardwoods are actually easier to work than softwoods. More uniform in makeup so cut and sand cleaner than pines that have hard and soft layers in the grain. Doing hand cut dovetails in pine is sure to get you swearing. That said all woods have differing working characteristics so it is always good to check a timber data page to see how a timber will work. Things like is it hard on tools, does it need predrilling to nail, does it take a finish well, does it glue well, how toxic is it and stuff like that before starting a project. Most good timber suppliers should have that data on their websites.
Regards
John

 

[fiveeyes]

Learn how to sharpen your tools. I am not assuming that you do not know how to presently, but suggesting that a re-double will pay dividends. Sure did for me.

 

[MikeG.]

I reckon I had been woodworking for at least 10 years before I felt confident enough to move to hardwoods. I learnt everything I know with pine. This was entirely based on the price difference, with pine being so cheap. The thing is, hardwood was so much easier. Working with ash for the first time was something of a revelation. Pine is bit of a pig to work with compared to ash or beech or walnut or cherry, and although oak and chestnut aren't as easy as that list, they're all easier than pine, in my view. In hindsight I should have started on hardwoods much sooner. However, you will need razor sharp tools, and absolutely precise marking/ setting out. Joints in pallet wood etc, if you did any, didn't need to be special. Joints in hardwood need to be perfect, as you'll be making a very different style of furniture now.

 

[sunnybob]

I'm the opposite of Mike. I started from scratch almost 4 years ago with mahogany and walnut, went onto padauk, bubinga, maple and every other hardwood I could find. It was over two years before I made anything with "softwood".

I had no problems except with my own inexperience.
My advice is to give yourself a little bit of extra wood on the lengths, and only cut the final length when all other operations have been done. My scrap bin used to overflow with parts that were too small by the time I had tidied things up.
And yes, when using the router table, two cuts are better than one, and three cuts are better than two.

 

[ED65]

...using nice hardwoods for the first time in anger...

Don't have any specific tips for you (would have said "measure thrice, cut once!" but you already covered that yourself) just wanted to say, enjoy!

Working with some nice hardwood can be a real pleasure after starting on dodgy softwoods with wide growth rings and dreadfully soft earlywood that can be such a pain to deal with.

I think softwood is under rated...

Agree 100%.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you use untried fillers, sealers, finishes and even glues - try them on offcuts first. Just because something works brilliantly on one timber it doesn't mean it'll do likewise on something else. Oh, and don't be tempted to use steel wool on oak or chestnut.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

I would add: mark with a knife instead of a pencil and sneak up on the finished cut.

 

[AndyT]

I'm not sure of the best answer to this one but perhaps others will join in.
On some dark timbers it's much harder to see a pencil line. Ok if you can tilt it in the light and catch the shine of the graphite but that's not always possible. You can buy white pencils which are ok for labelling parts or marking face side, but are too soft and crumbly for marking cutting lines eg on dovetails.

You can scribble on the wood with a white pencil then mark on the white with an ordinary pencil.
You can knife a line and use white pencil to make it show up.
You can use ordinary or blue masking tape and either put pencil marks on the tape or else cut through the tape and peel one side off, leaving the cut edge as your line.

All these methods can be a bit fiddly or less immediate than a simple sharp pencil on pale wood.

 

[sickasapike]

Have a good read of this tremendously helpful post from Custard, which covers a lot more than where to buy:

how-to-buy-hardwoods-t107912.html

What an epic thread that is, thanks !

 

[sickasapike]

Marking out!

Thanks, I'm getting better with marking properly now I'm making non-shop things that really do need to meet at the edge etc. after a few months building up my skills a bit - the slow start was part of the rationale for speding a long time getting my workshop together, quite apart from the curious pleasure of spending an afternoon making a jig to make a 30 second cut more accurate !

 

[sickasapike]

For working hardwoods sharp tools and accuracy are paramount.

Check - I got a set of 600/1000/3000 stones from Rutlands recently, I've been going through the sharp stuff in the kitchen first. Mum's old 'Prestige' paring knife, which is older than me, is probably sharper than it ever was !

I also think timber selection is more important, spend more time over choosing which boards match up in a panel for example and getting continuity of grain along a set of rails perhaps.

I mainly get timber from a local recycling/skip scrounging (no negativity intended) outfit in Brighton (http://www.communitywoodrecycling.org.uk/stores/brighton-hove-wood-recycling-project/), they're great and I love the ethos, it limits my selection but that's probably a good thing at the moment, and the chap I usually deal with there is happy to wander around with me being helpful, which I can't really expect a full-on timber yard to do. Super bargain board products too.

Also screws need pilot holes in hardwood!

Check, already do that anyway, I use ForegeFast torx screws which have a pre-drill cutout as it were, but still pre-drill, I've found using a... argh... one of those things you put on the wood and press down and it clicks and punches a divot in when it really matters where the hole is.

Thanks, good advice.

 

[sickasapike]

first you need to ask yourself, why do you think hardwoods are a step up? I think softwood is under rated, buying redwood pine is very different to getting free pallet wood with nails, cracks and splits in it, admittedly there are times where having a hardwood is more practical for hard wearing things, but most of the time, pine can do the same thing and is a lot cheaper, poplar is a good cheap hardwood for practicing on, that you can paint over, save the cherry and maple for really high end work.

Ah yes, my newbie is showing, I should have said 'nice wood' rather than hardwood - essentially I mean non-pallet wood and not ply/osb/mdf, you're right, pine is just fine with me. Cheers for the tip re poplar.

 

[MusicMan]

Also screws need pilot holes in hardwood!

Check, already do that anyway, I use ForegeFast torx screws which have a pre-drill cutout as it were, but still pre-drill, I've found using a... argh... one of those things you put on the wood and press down and it clicks and punches a divot in when it really matters where the hole is.

[/quote]

Spring-loaded centre punch!