Mortise chisel handle

AHoman · 4 Nov 2006

Hi,
I'm new here!
I recently acquired an old "pigsticker" style mortise chisel, 1/2". The handle is splintering. It is still usable but I'd like to prepare for the next step -- making a replacement handle. Has anyone done this -- can you point me in the right direction? Kinds of wood to use (would quartersawn hard maple work?), tools and techniques to use?
Thanks for your help,
Andy

woodbloke · 4 Nov 2006

Hi Andy and welcome - I've made a couple of handles for this type of mortice chisel - I used an off cut of some ash I had lying around. I shaped the wood into an oval section and bored a 6mm hole down the centre. The tang of these chisels is usually tapered so to fit it to the handle, put the blade tang uppermost, and hold very tightly in a large metalwork vice. Place the handle over the tang and start to tap it on with a mallet, twisting the handle as you do so. In this way it will gradually cut its own conical hole, but it's quite hard work. Towards the end (last 6mm) don't twist it but tap until the handle will go no further- with any luck you won't have split the ash. Finish by sanding the handle to a decent fit and on the disc sander (if you've got one) sand the end and put on a small bevel around the top. On your side of the pond, hickory might be a better choice of timber, if you can get it. There are probably other ways of putting a handle on these chisels but this one worked for me - Rob

Derek Cohen (Perth Oz) · 4 Nov 2006

Hi Andy

I have also made a few handles for OBM chisels. Actually have another (a 1/2") to do tomorrow.

Here are a few, the two on the right are ones I have done:

(Incidentally, the chisel second from the left came from Ray Iles - does anyone recognise the wood type?)

I have a slightly different approach to Rob. I set an oversided handle on the tang, then shape it with a spokeshave and rasp.

Clamp the handle-to-be in a vise, then drill a vertical hole (as wide as the tang) as deep as the length of the tang using a power drill. The tang is typically a long taper, wider at the bolster and ending in a point. All I do is create a tapered hole with the powered up drill bit - pull it one way, then pull it the other. This is not a high tech approach but it works well, and quickly. If I have done it correctly, there will be about 1/4" to hammer down to achieve a tight fit.

Some will recommend burning in a tapered hole. I do not tried this (and have doubts about the longevity of a charred hole). I have not required epoxy at any time with the above method.

Regards from Perth

Derek

woodbloke · 4 Nov 2006

Derek - your way sounds a bit easier that mine, I've got another one to do so may have a go at the way you suggest - Rob

Anonymous · 4 Nov 2006

I've doen plenty of chisels but not a pig stickier one as yet. I have an old one with an elm handle. Just a thought though, when you tap in the tang and turn it, gradually shaving a taper socket etc perhaps you could make it quicker and easier by filing the tang with flat sides to get a sharp edges. They are usually pitted and gammy with rust. It only takes a few moments to fettle the socket in this way, in fact its almost too fast you have to watch you dont overdo it and end up with a sloppy joint. Perhaps you could polish the tang on a 16000 grit watestorne and turn a wire scraper edge?? :lol: :roll: just joking. I'd not be inclined to heat the tang to burn it in, I'd likely ruin the chisel :roll: I generally do as above the only time I used epoxie was when I did my bill hook which gets more exposed to extremes of weather. I reckon youd have to take extra care to get the base of the handle to fit absolutely evenly and snugg all round the entire round bit (bolster?) of the pig sticker, maybe saw carve it in with a hacksaw (or jet cut :roll: ) How does any one else sort that part out? Should they have a leather washer on a pig sticker?
Cheers Jonathan
PS another tip I made a tiny "mortice chisel" that I use to adjust the socket if it is going off centre its only about 2mm wide, so as when your test fitting and its looking wonky you can altyer even just a tiny bit to get your true angle back again