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[GEPPETTO]

Hi All, I decided to enhance my tool chest. Therefore I spent some time on ebay:

JOINERS TRY SQUARE
STANLEY 'SW' #40 SCRUB PLANE
Stanley No 78 Rabbat Plane w Fence
RECORD PLOUGH PLANE - 044 WITH 8 CUTTERS
RECORD No 4 1-2 WOODWORK PLANE
BRASS ECLIPSE NO_ 77 SAW SET
Brass Backed Tenon Saw
BRASS BACKED SAW BY F_LITTLETON LONDON

Do you have any thought about?

 

[bugbear]

Unless it was cheap, I'd have skipped the scrub plane, since they are easy to make.

Otherwise, it sounds like a more than reasonable "set".

BugBear

 

[GEPPETTO]

Hi,
for STANLEY 'SW' #40 SCRUB PLANE I paid 50£plus shipment :shock: .
Is it worth? :?:

 

[mahking51]

GEPPETTO
Hope it is not coming from the US as shipping and duty will put the price up a lot.
£40 - £50 seems to be what they make but a LN Scrub is only $90 or so....
Chivadiamo
Martin

 

[GEPPETTO]

GEPPETTO
Hope it is not coming from the US as shipping and duty will put the price up a lot.
£40 - £50 seems to be what they make but a LN Scrub is only $90 or so....
Chivadiamo
Martin

Hi Martin,

I paid 43$ AU FROM Australia which would be about 18£.

Ci vediamo!
Gabriele

 

[Jarviser]

I nearly bid on that Record 4 1/2! It looks to be around 1945 - 1956. Good solid frog on those ones. Great bargain at £10 - worth it just for the blade, or the handles, or...

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Bugbear wrote:

I'd have skipped the scrub plane, since they are easy to make.

I don't know. The blade I can manage, but casting the iron for the shell is hot work..... oh I'm teasing you BB - let's have another gander at your wooden scrub!

Kind regards and best wishes for the New Year.

Derek

 

[bugbear]

.... oh I'm teasing you BB - let's have another gander at your wooden scrub!

Derek

Well, I did weasel out. My intentions were always to make a laminated (Krenov/Steve Knight) style plane with a closed wooden handle, but a cheap conversion "donor" was too good to miss.

http://www.geocities.com/plybench/scrub.html
http://www.wdynamic.com/galoots/4images ... ge_id=2110
http://www.wdynamic.com/galoots/4images ... ge_id=2111
http://www.wdynamic.com/galoots/4images ... ge_id=2112


BugBear

 

[Anonymous]

You have some very nice tools there, Geppetto. You made some good choices for tools that can serve you well for a lifetime.
Your #40 is just like mine and it is one of my favorite tools.

 

[GEPPETTO]

You have some very nice tools there, Geppetto. You made some good choices for tools that can serve you well for a lifetime.
Your #40 is just like mine and it is one of my favorite tools.

Hi Roger,

It's a pleasure to hear you again. One question to who likes handtools: it has arrived the set saw (eclipse #77). It's the first set I have had in my hands therefore I don't know a lot about it. But I I have been able to see that the "hammer" ( I think it is called) has a little chip on the upper side of it. I mean to say that the chip is on what doesn't push on the tooth. I tried the saw set a little on a saw and it bends the teeth against the anvil well. Unfortunately I haven't any picture .
In case, using it, I see that it doesn't work well is there a way of replace/repair it?

 

[Anonymous]

Bugbear would be the one to answer this as he has more experience with the Eclipse saw set. I use the Stanley 42x.

 

[bugbear]

But I I have been able to see that the "hammer" ( I think it is called) has a little chip on the upper side of it. I mean to say that the chip is on what doesn't push on the tooth. I tried the saw set a little on a saw and it bends the teeth against the anvil well. Unfortunately I haven't any picture .
In case, using it, I see that it doesn't work well is there a way of replace/repair it?

Unless there's a massive chip, you should be OK. This part is normally called the "plunger".

The #77 is easy to disassemble - do this, and try to see how bad the damage is (i.e. how big a chip is missing).

If the damage is minor I would suggest doing a little rubbing on SiC abrasive just to tidy things up visually. You might want to narrow down the tip of plunger when you're doing this, since in the later models, the plunger is a little wider than is needed.

Setting saw teeth needs all the visual aid you can get: a distracting chip is not helpful.

BugBear

 

[Alf]

Gabriele,

You seem to be slipping down The Slope at some speed! Nice haul. The F Littleton saw looks like a pretty old one to me. Alas my efforts to extract a copy of Hand Saw Makers of Britain from the States has been unsuccesful so far, but it'd be interesting to know if Littleton is listed in there, and with what dates.

The only problem I can see is a shortage of depth stops. Neither the #78 or #044 seem to have one, which is a shame. In theory making one for the #044 shouldn't be beyond one, and indeed I'm in need of one myself; if I get the Tuit I'll try and take a few pics of what I did, in case it helps. Don't be tempted to get a replacement depth stop for the #78 from Stanley - they've gone metric apparently, and it won't fit. ](*,)

Cheers, Alf

 

[bugbear]

In theory making one for the #044 shouldn't be beyond one, and indeed I'm in need of one myself; if I get the Tuit I'll try and take a few pics of what I did, in case it helps.

Cheers, Alf

http://nika.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu/~cswi ... =1#message

BugBear

 

[Alf]

Yeah, but you never made one in the end, did you?

http://nika.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu:8080/~cswingle/archive/get.phtml?message_id=102369

Cheers, Alf

Always looking out for a Remuvar :lol:

 

[bugbear]

Yeah, but you never made one in the end, did you?

http://nika.frontier.iarc.uaf.edu:8080/~cswingle/archive/get.phtml?message_id=102369

Hey! I thought you needed my help searching that archive!

BugBear

 

[GEPPETTO]

But I I have been able to see that the "hammer" ( I think it is called) has a little chip on the upper side of it. I mean to say that the chip is on what doesn't push on the tooth. I tried the saw set a little on a saw and it bends the teeth against the anvil well. Unfortunately I haven't any picture .
In case, using it, I see that it doesn't work well is there a way of replace/repair it?

Unless there's a massive chip, you should be OK. This part is normally called the "plunger".

The #77 is easy to disassemble - do this, and try to see how bad the damage is (i.e. how big a chip is missing).

If the damage is minor I would suggest doing a little rubbing on SiC abrasive just to tidy things up visually. You might want to narrow down the tip of plunger when you're doing this, since in the later models, the plunger is a little wider than is needed.

Setting saw teeth needs all the visual aid you can get: a distracting chip is not helpful.

BugBear

Hi Bugbear,

yesterday I disassembled the set saw. The chip is very very very little.
Thanks for informations.

 

[GEPPETTO]

Gabriele,

You seem to be slipping down The Slope at some speed! Nice haul.

I'm only on the top. Let's hope the brake doesn't break itself. 8)

The only problem I can see is a shortage of depth stops. Neither the #78 or #044 seem to have one, which is a shame.

:?: ouch! #44 has not still arrived. Let's see what will arrive :?

 

[GEPPETTO]

.....The only problem I can see is a shortage of depth stops. Neither the #78 or #044 seem to have one, which is a shame. .................

Alf,
the stuffs (scrub,2th saw,record #44 and #41/2)have arrived yesterday. As you said the #78 (it was arrived before)hasn't the depth stop, I'll see on ebay for stanley parts. But #44 has depth stop and long arms too, it's like new and I'm happy.

Now I have a discrete number of tools to tune. How I said in another thread I'm refurbishing an old stanley #5 and I must say that is very satifying a such work .

One question (perhaps stupid :roll: ) is coming in mind when I'm watching these tools: #44 haven't any nicker but #78 has it. From this do I deduce that #44 has to be used only long grain and #78 might be used cross grain too? Or to use #78 croos grain it needs to have skewed iron like #289?

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Hi Gabriele

The short answer is you can use them ALL across the grain, as long as you knife the outer lines cleanly and firmly.

The longer answer is that a skewed blade is best across the grain, such as in the Stanley #46. A nicker helps, and the #78 can do a reasonable job. It does a LOT better than the #044 or #043, both planes lacking any nickers. All do less well than a Stanley #45, which has nickers on both skates. In fact the #45 can do a reasonably good job because of this - as long as you ignore the quality of the dado floor (only the #46 will cut a smooth floor). Of course the other plane to use across the grain is a router plane - but the story is the same: cut between clean, knifed lines and you will not have any problems.

Regards from Perth

Derek