more door stuff

[johnnyb]

I've landed a job where I need to deepen the rebates on a fitted frame.the existing rebates are about 30mm. I've made a set of guides to screw to the framevwith a 30mm Bush and a1/2inch cutter. that still leaves me 80mm in every corner and at the bottoms. does anyone have any suggestions to take those corners out. maybe an offset katsu base or anything. some handwork is fine but as little as possible please!

 

[johnnyb]

sorry just to clarify I've have 10 door frames to complete. buying a tool to help here is fine.

 

[Doug71]

Multi tool running against a bit of lath?

 

[johnnyb]

simple and effective.. what's needed is a trim router on a square base where the cutter is in one corner.

 

[johnnyb]

is the katsu offset base configured like this?

 

[johnnyb]

it looks to be configured that way has it got a gear to drive the offset spindle. not really well demonstrated anywhere

 

[HOJ]

Can the architrave come off, my only thought would be a 1/2 top bearing router cutter run around the perimeter on the lining face, may need to put a spacer on it as the one I use is 50mm deep, still need to clean the corners out but may get in tighter, as in: Template bit
I have the Makita off set base, not sure that would be that easy to do it with that, Ill have a look at it later and get some closer pictures for you.

 

[scholar]

I am unsure that I have understood this correctly - if you are deepening the rebate for a wider/taller door, then the following applies (and yea you would need to remove the architraves, which presumably you would need to anyway):

This is not dissimilar to a job I have ongoing - this involves reducing the underside of some intermediate cills in some tall windows a bit complicated to explain, but essentially the same job as the OP has to do on the head of each frame.

The approach I took was to set up a straight edge at the depth required - I used a wide life of plywood to give a stable base for the router to run on - I added a wide base to the router for additional stability - I used this very expensive and impressive router cutter Whiteside Model UDP9112 Ultimate Spiral Pattern Bit 1/2 SH x 7/8 D x 1-1/8 CL by Whiteside https://amzn.eu/d/61QCYHU - you can use this in stages of course, running against the freshly cut face. You would only have the router bit radius to clean up in the corners but the width of the router base at the bottoms - still about 80mm, I guess. [incidentally, I bought this bit used ages ago quite cheaply it now seems - I winced every time it nicked a screw tip in the workpiece!]

For the awkward bit at the bottom, I would try to rig up little platform to run a small cordless router over - I have been using this 12v Bosch which is surprisingly good GKF 12V-8 Cordless Palm Router | Bosch Professional - the offset on this is 40mm, less half the router cutter width.

If I (and others above) have misread the problem, and you are deepening the rebate for a thicker door, the problem seems easier - but the little cordless router would be useful here too.

In any event what you cannot get to with a router cutter is down to a combination of multi tool, chisel and possibly little shoulder plane etc. On that note, for the awkward bits on my job I mentioned above, I bought one of these Shop Fox D3751 Precision Shoulder Plane Amazon.co.uk - it took a bit of fettling, but has been very handy.

Cheers

 

[johnnyb]

sorry I am deepening the rebate for a thicker door. the house has boarded doors(28mm rebate) and the owner wants 35mm oak doors. I've ordered the katsu and offset base ill post again about how good the technique works.

 

[johnnyb]

my jig 2 long and one short bits all the same thickness 9mm. I spindled a 10mm wide rebate deep enough to clear the 30mm bush. I then run the router along and trim the edge of the jig. I've thicknesed another 2 long and 1 short spacer that screws on the rebate leaving a slot to clear the cutter. so the router is supported at both sides. I'll set it up using a laser level. u should be able to finish a frame in one hit. but we'll see.....
the katsu will hopefully leave 25mm in the corner.. and a blooming dusty mess

 

[deema]

I’ve done a few at my last house, chisel, bull nose and chisel plane are your friend. Router takes out as close to the corners as possible, and then break out the hand tools. It’s very quick if you’re adept with hand tools.

 

[TRITON]

A nice big chisel
Extend the line. Tap gently with the chisel to deepen it slightly, then take it out starting at the leading edge working back to your marked line.
Bullnose plane is very handy too(just noticed the above post)

Anyway, here's a couple of capable chisels, 38mm and 51mm. Good quality and at a bargain price.

https://www.ffx.co.uk/product/Get/I...CSS+UK&tduid=240aac43dac82d18144b64508806af5a
Pretty much everyone here buys from FFX, its a good site and Irwin/Marples chisels are well known and used by joiners a world over. So well worth buying.
You're probably not going to find chisels as good as these at an equivalent price.

 

[johnnyb]

I'm not really in the market for chisels ( having far to many) one little tip I picked up was when you want need a big chisel just use a plane blade. one of those hock thick ones!( any would work) planes blade are usually pennies ( wooden smoothers are mostly £1 ) I probably wouldn't use a hock tbf....
all the" use handtools " posts are OK for a door or 2 but for 10 I wouldn't take the job unless I could get within an inch chisel of the corners. my katsu has arrived and seems fine just waiting for the offset base which comes tomorrow.

 

[Jacob]

I'm not really in the market for chisels ( having far to many) one little tip I picked up was when you want need a big chisel just use a plane blade. one of those hock thick ones!( any would work) planes blade are usually pennies ( wooden smoothers are mostly £1 ) I probably wouldn't use a hock tbf....
all the" use handtools " posts are OK for a door or 2 but for 10 I wouldn't take the job unless I could get within an inch chisel of the corners. my katsu has arrived and seems fine just waiting for the offset base which comes tomorrow.

You end up finishing off with hand tools anyway - it really is a handy tooly job!
Fitting 10 wrong sized doors? 9 doors too many?
Stanley 78 is handy, can be used as a bull nose if you reposition the blade, can be turned into a "chisel"plane if you saw it in half. Also light weight and good handle for grip.

 

[HOJ]

All too late now @johnnyb pictures of the makita offset:

 

[johnnyb]

that looks as though it will cut to 10 mm. Will the offset base take bushes? it will also be useful to sink hinges in rebated frames.

 

[johnnyb]

is the cutter depth adjustable?

 

[HOJ]

Will the offset base take bushes?

I can't see how and nothing comes in the kit of parts, another picture:

is the cutter depth adjustable?

Its seems to all be fixed in a given position, but to be honest I've only used it once to cut a window latch keep in, on a narrow (pre fitted) window frame, using a 10mm bearing cutter and a template.

 

[ChaiLatte]

That looks as though it will cut to 10 mm. Will the offset base take bushes?

Collets for the Makita/Katsu are available in 6mm, 1/4", 8mm, 10mm and 3/8" (possibly 5/16" as well, but not sure on this). Picking the biggest diameter cutter available on one of those shank sizes (e.g. Surface Trim 3 Wing), which is 25mm dia., will get you closer to the edge of the base.

The base will not take bushes. Look how thin it is at the edge. How would you fit a bush there?

Is the cutter depth adjustable?

No, and standard cutters cannot go far enough into the sub spindle to put the start of the flutes close to the collet nut. You can cut a bit off the plain end of the cutter to reduce stick out to a minimum, but you are still limited on minimum cut depth.

Best thing to do is to take the plastic base off, stick it to a piece of MDF or chipboard and run round it with a pattern bit. Use longer screws and bolt the MDF base on to reduce depth of cut. A few of these in various thicknesses (or multiple copies in 3mm thickness, stacked up) plus altering the stickout of the cutter in the collet plus a couple of cutter shank length options is the only way to adjust cut depth with this base. You also need M4 screws of various lengths.

I was trying to design a 3D printed add-on, similar to the height adjustment that the DeWalt trim routers use, to make the Makita offset base adjustable, but never progressed far.

 

[johnnyb]

maybe with the extra bases( to reduce the depth) you could add bushes on to that. I really need a 9mm offset to match the 30mm/ 1/2 inch of the big router. bit of head scratching but doable.