Modifying a tablesaw top

[noddy67]

Now I'm pretty sure I already know the answer to this question but here goes anyway. I have an old TA315 tablesaw. It has a sliding table attached to it but its not fantastic. I'd really like to make up a mitre slid to use with it but the saw doesn't have any mitre slots.
I realise I could make something that utilises the sliding table or the rip fence but I just wondered whether there is any way to add mitre slots to a tablesaw top or if this was a service I could get done for a reasonable cost.
Any recommendations in the Kent area would be most appreciated.
Thanks

 

[devonwoody]

Is it possible to make a sled/jig that utilises the fence to create a sliding action?

Anyone here tried that for a sliding table?

 

[StevieB]

The easiest way is to use the sides of the table as your reference ie make a sled that sits over the entire table with runners that bracket the table itself. This will stop left to right movement. The only caveat is to ensure your blade is aligned with the table edges, and that will depend on whether you have much table adjustment on your saw.

Depending on the depth of timber you wish to cut, an alternative would be to add a false table with mitre slots cut in it, but you then lose the depth of the table from the blade cutting height. You would probably need a minimum of 12mm false table and 6mm mitre slots, but 18 and 9 would be safer - either rout in t track for the best solution or simply trench a square slot. Then your only problem is how to attach it to the existing table - sunken screws tapped into the surface or nuts and bolts after drilling through the existing table would be best assuming you dont mind 4 holes in a CI top!

Steve.

 

[wizer]

I assume you mean the Sedgwick TA 315?

What a saw!

I have recently been in your predicament of wanting a sled but not having a t-slot on the left of the blade. Thisis was my solution. But I'm not sure it will work for you.

I'm sure there are engineering firms out there that can machine your top. Problem is getting it there.

 

[9fingers]

Cutting guide slots in your table could leave it weak or at worst in three pieces!

Tables with slots in usually have the casting thickened up in the region of the slot to maintain strength.

If you are making your own mitre gauge or modifying an existing one then you could consider a much shallower slot say 1/4" or 6mm if this meant the table would be stronger.

It would be a trivial job for an engineering shop to put in two slots either side of the blade and it is not essential that they are Tee section ones either.
You would have to strip the saw down, take the table to them. allowing for set up, less than an hours work. most towns have small engineering shops tucked away on industrial estates and in the current climate, they are possibly not too busy. When phoning round, the key parameter will be the overall table size and the distance of the slot from the table edge so have that to hand.

Good luck

Bob

 

[noddy67]

Thanks for the posts guys.

Wizer I looked at your solution you posted and I had tried some form of that previously. I was not particularly happy with my version and would be interested to see if you get on better. Is that a more modern TA315 I see under the sled?

Referencing off the edges of the table is difficult as there are a couple of protrusions at each end which would get in the way.

 

[wizer]

no the saw is a Jet Supersaw and the sliding table arrangement is quite unique and not necessarily in a good way.

 

[ByronBlack]

Referencing off the edges of the table is difficult as there are a couple of protrusions at each end which would get in the way.

A sled to use the sliding carriage would be a good option, if not possible, why not just bolt a piece of alluminium/steel or wooden batten to the protrusions to provide a reference edge?