Miter Plane

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Philly

Established Member
Joined
24 Nov 2003
Messages
6,874
Reaction score
1
Location
Dorset, England.
Hi Folks
All these questions about using a #9 on a shooting board are kind of timely.
Voila - the Philly Miter Plane.
The blade is bedded at 33 degrees, bevel down. It is made from Goncalo Alves and has a 6mm thick O1 iron. It features a brass mouth insert and is finished with boiled linseed oil. The plane works excellently on the shooting board - the weight of the plane is a great asset. And combined with the low angled blade makes clean and easy cuts.
I was very pleased with this plane - some of you may remember my skewed blade mitre plane. It never felt "right" to me. But this one does - maybe its because I am used to using a bench plane or a #9 on the shooting board.
Hope you like
Philly :D
low1.jpg

low2.jpg

DSCF0185.jpg
 
That's a very nice plane!

So, your recipe for a shooting board plane is a heavy plane, thick blade and a lower than usual blade angle?

I've been considering my next move in planemaking, and a shooting board plane is on top of the list. I have some thick blades with 30 degree bevels, but I wasn't sure what blade (bedding) angle I should use - low angle (i.e. lower than usual 45 degrees) seemed a good idea.
The plane I am currently most likely to grab when using shooting board for planing mitres on small stock (for box-making) is usually my cheap Hilka block plane :oops:

So, this one from you comes just at the right moment! ;)

Thanks for the info!

And once again - that's a really nice plane - and I'm sure it's a pleasure to use!

Denis
 
Great plane Philly - what's it rough O/A dimensions or do I have to wait for the next issue of Woodworker?


Rod :)
 
Damn you to heides phil! I'm getting thoroughly envious with all these drool worthy planes your knocking up in 5 minutes! :)

In all seriousness - i really like the design of this one - 'specially them chamfers, good work!
 
Thanks, Folks! Glad you like it!
Dimensions are 240mm x 55mm x 70mm. And yes, it might just appear in The Woodworker..... :wink:
Seems like the chamfers are a hit? Certainly classier than a round over bit in the router.... :lol:
Cheers
Philly :D
 
Hi Philly

Is there is no end to your skills? :mrgreen:

It looks beautiful and, by the look of the shavings, works well.

Cheers,
Neil
 
Ooo, yes, chamfers definitely a hit - very nice looking plane, Phil. Just a smidgeon of tearout there though? Tsk, surely you had one plane that could deal with that...? :wink: :lol:

Duckin' 'n' runnin', Alf
 
Philly":20v4f6g5 said:
Hi Folks
All these questions about using a #9 on a shooting board are kind of timely.
Voila - the Philly Miter Plane.
The blade is bedded at 33 degrees, bevel down.
Hmm. Sharpened at 25 degrees, that only leaves 8 degrees of relief, so single bevel sharpening I assume.

I'm surprised you moved away from a skewed blade, although a skewed, low angle plane is extremely difficult to make, and I'm surprised at the lack of "hand grips" on the plane. I suppose if the cutting forces are pleasingly low (and a woodie moves very nicely on a shooting board, wax or no wax) the grip is less important.

I find the chamfers a little on the large side, but that's just personal aesthetics, and maybe I've had my tastes coloured by "traditional" factory woodies.

And after all this (detailed, and constructive I hope) criticism. I should add - very nice work! As others have said, where do you find the time?

BugBear
 
Stunning plane Phil, stunning!!!

I like the sprinkled shavings from your #9 too :wink:
 
Paul
Here's a picture of the plane in use (and you better watch your #9 comments, Tony :lol: ). I am using what I would describe as the "regular" shooting board grip. It feels totally natural to me to use it in this fashion, so no hand holds were needed. I liked the idea of a skew plane but feel it may not be necessary.
Thanks for your criticism - much appreciated! As for the time? I've been getting up early and putting in an hour before I go to work some days. Really.... :roll:
And Al - trust you to notice the knot. No way that was getting planed, as you can see. This is a prototype plane, so I wasn't too bothered. And that's my story and I'm sticking to it....... :lol:
Cheers
Philly :D
low3.jpg
 
Philly":19rltm23 said:
Paul
Here's a picture of the plane in use (and you better watch your #9 comments, Tony :lol: ). I am using what I would describe as the "regular" shooting board grip. It feels totally natural to me to use it in this fashion, so no hand holds were needed.
So your thumb (invisible in the photo) is on the sole of the plane, and you are (thus) driving the plane forward purely by friction (the tightness of your grip).

That speaks volumes for the ease of cutting!!

Philly":19rltm23 said:
I liked the idea of a skew plane but feel it may not be necessary.

Certainly, if you plane is low angle, thick bladed and runs easily, adding skew to the mix may be overkill.

Of course, some people LIKE overkill :D

BugBear
 
bugbear":13vx9de0 said:
I find the chamfers a little on the large side, but that's just personal aesthetics, and maybe I've had my tastes coloured by "traditional" factory woodies.
Still an issue of personal aesthetics...but there are "traditional factory woodies" with wide chamfers.

panel1.jpg


Got several of them (this panel and some molding planes) from the 18th century where chamfers were much broader, details more pronounced.
Of course to scale--a larger plane, larger chamfers. Still much broader than like planes from 75 years later.

Take care, Mike
 

Latest posts

Back
Top