MFT Table Best Accessories

[billw]

So after spending ages drilling 20mm holes in two benches, I have now finally got some workspace and moved on to making real things our of proper timber. The only downside is that I can't use my benches for anything because I possess the grand sum of zero bench dogs, clamps, or anything else. Oh, and I don't want to damage the surface because it looks nice, but anyway.

For those of you with MFT tables, what are your most used accessories? Obviously there's a fair bit of choice with dogs and pups, but I'm not sure which brand to get. Clamps? Anything else? I'm going to make a few of the Axminster MDF accessories like stops and squares because I have a glut of valchromat left over and it seems pointless paying good money when I can saw a piece off and drill some holes in it.

 

[marcros]

Benchdogs fence. I have only just got it but so far it is brilliant.
set of rail dogs to go with it.

 

[PerryGunn]

I agree with the benchdogs fence being well worth the money.

I also like their benchtop protectors

As for not damaging the surface - if you're using a track saw the cut line tends to be in the same place most of the time so it's worth adding a sacrificial strip

Benchdogs - by coincidence, I've just posted a link to this video in another thread

 

[Mickjay]

Cheapskate that I am, I bought fence dogs and a length of 2040 aluminium profile bought off the bay, much cheaper than the benchdog fence, all that's lacking are the markings but I can live with that. Also copied the Axminster stops and wedges using some 8mm perspex used with some home made spiral clamps (Matthias Wendel design I think).

 

[robgul]

Have a look at from @petermillard - the cheap (Banggood or Aliexpress) clamps are brilliant - at the moment I think Alie have them for about £27

 

[billw]

The benchdog fence only seems to come in a 1000mm length which is a pain cos it's way too big for my bench. However they have a "right hand fence" that's only 330mm and that's far more suitable, but I couldn't quite figure out what the difference between them actually is (apart from length obviously).

My track doesn't seem to have the right fittings for the rail dogs.

I've read the other thread about dogs specifically and think I'll get a mix of benchdogs and UJK for when they need to be sturdy, and banggood for planing stops.

 

[PerryGunn]

The benchdog fence only seems to come in a 1000mm length which is a pain cos it's way too big for my bench. However they have a "right hand fence" that's only 330mm and that's far more suitable, but I couldn't quite figure out what the difference between them actually is (apart from length obviously).

The right-hand fence is intended for measuring material tothe right of the tracksaw cut line - i.e waste-side cuts - it won't really work on the left because the scale reads left->right instead of right->left

The standard fence is aluminium so if 1000mm (1200mm with the under track section) is far too large, it could easily be cut to a more suitable length. On my table, I just let the left-hand end of the fence overhang the end of the table - I can still use the flagstops for the full length and if anything I'm cutting overhangs the end of the table, it won't have any effect as long as the majority of it is actually on the table

 

[marcros]

The right-hand fence is intended for measuring material tothe right of the tracksaw cut line - i.e waste-side cuts - it won't really work on the left because the scale reads left->right instead of right->left

The standard fence is aluminium so if 1000mm (1200mm with the under track section) is far too large, it could easily be cut to a more suitable length. On my table, I just let the left-hand end of the fence overhang the end of the table - I can still use the flagstops for the full length and if anything I'm cutting overhangs the end of the table, it won't have any effect as long as the majority of it is actually on the table

I do the same.

Benchdogs is a fairly small company and that has the advantage that they have some flexibility. They make a short version that fits into a sustainer, and also do the laser marking in-house. they may well be able to do what you want if you ask, ie a short length with scale on reading in the right direction.

the question that I would ask is how large pieces are you going to want to cut? having a short length of fence with flag stops on becomes a bit useless if you cant use the flag stop on 50% of what you cut. You may as well nail a length of timber and work from pencil marks.

 

[Raymien]

Second the comments here about Benchdogs. I’ve got their 1200mm fence kit along with the right hand fence too. It’s now a breeze to cut up sheet material accurately and repeatedly. I love it.
The rail dogs are really good too.

 

[robgul]

Cheapskate that I am, I bought fence dogs and a length of 2040 aluminium profile bought off the bay, much cheaper than the benchdog fence, all that's lacking are the markings but I can live with that. Also copied the Axminster stops and wedges using some 8mm perspex used with some home made spiral clamps (Matthias Wendel design I think).

Be very interested to see a pic or two of that set-up please.

 

[Mickjay]

Be very interested to see a pic or two of that set-up please.

I'll take some next time I'm out in the garage, but it's nothing special. Also when I wrote spiral clamps I really meant cam wedges (my terminology is as bad as my woodworking).

 

[Mickjay]

Be very interested to see a pic or two of that set-up please.

Here you go, not sure how helpful these will be but I'm very happy with how it all works. The cams are mdf which grip the wedges better, I cut some perspex cams but found they sometimes vibrated loose whilst using the ROS.

 

[HDC83]

Here you go, not sure how helpful these will be but I'm very happy with how it all works. The cams are mdf which grip the wedges better, I cut some perspex cams but found they sometimes vibrated loose whilst using the ROS.

I like the idea definitely gonna make a couple, what did you use as the pivot that sits in the 20mm hole

 

[Mickjay]

I like the idea definitely gonna make a couple, what did you use as the pivot that sits in the 20mm hole

The ones in the pictures are Axminster UJK guide pups, but I also use some oak dowel I bought off the bay.

 

[HDC83]

The ones in the pictures are Axminster UJK guide pups, but I also use some oak dowel I bought off the bay.

I see now the cam has a 20mm hole as well

 

[Britman]

I've just bought the mkii fence system and track dogs but going off what other have said, it's the dogs

I have also been tempted to take a punt on these from Banggood good price compared to what the festool ones are.

Quick Guide Rail Clamp
https://banggood.app.link/5Ilw6IjJodb

 

[oakhouse]

I have made spacers fro the dog holes by using a length of 20mm broom stale and cutting 40mm lengths on a bandsaw then glue (no metal screw or nails please !) 70 x70 x 15 plywood squares to the top, these are quick cheap and provide great stand off spacers for cutting sheet so that bench top does not get scarred, if I cut tthrough a spacer so what ! bench dogs and wedges still work OK for other functions

 

[marcros]

I've just bought the mkii fence system and track dogs but going off what other have said, it's the dogs

I have also been tempted to take a punt on these from Banggood good price compared to what the festool ones are.

Quick Guide Rail Clamp
https://banggood.app.link/5Ilw6IjJodb

The only negative point that I have found so far...

My current mft top is about 750mm wide, so is not the full size if the mft. I have 6 holes front to back I think. The fence covers one of these, and the rail dogs need another 2, so dealing with wide boards with the fence is compromised on my table. I get around it by using the rail square but I lose the advantage of the flag stops.

This is a fault of my setup and I will redesign it at some point when the top needs replacing Most of my needs would probably be covered by a cross shaped cutting station, to enable long and wide pieces to be cross cut to a flag stop whilst keeping down the weight. Adapting my rail dogs to square dogs with a bit of m8 bar would also help I think.

 

[Mickjay]

I have made spacers fro the dog holes by using a length of 20mm broom stale and cutting 40mm lengths on a bandsaw then glue (no metal screw or nails please !) 70 x70 x 15 plywood squares to the top, these are quick cheap and provide great stand off spacers for cutting sheet so that bench top does not get scarred, if I cut tthrough a spacer so what ! bench dogs and wedges still work OK for other functions

I've done similar using 6mm mdf with 20mm dowels, so I can still use the dogs at the same time.

 

[smackie]

Another nod for the BenchDogs fence. I have one of the systainer versions as I don’t use it all the time and it’s useful to be able to tuck it away. I often just use two parts of the fence (and the under fence section) for repeat cuts of thin/narrow material.

I also use the BenchDogs grooved guide rail dogs with my Festool rails. If you use the under rail section, the flat faced dog sits under the rail near the splinter strip. The spare dog hole to the left of that (behind the rail) will take one of the guide rail dogs (with the other grooved dog at the front of the table), which lets you sit the rail at a perfect 90 degrees to the fence. I use an MW1000 workstation and the extension table and this works really nicely as a setup as you don’t have a lot of width to burn.

I was dubious that it’d be that accurate but it’s bang on. I also use the UJK rail clips sometimes with tall dogs when I want the cutting plane of the rail to clear the edge of the table.

Final thing. Cut a sacrificial strip (or two) of Valchromat, route a channel for it and organize your cutting layout to cut into it. I spent ages trying to avoid cutting the top and all I did was screw up the workpiece I was s’pposed to be cutting (because once you space the work piece from the table, all sorts of things can go wrong under the rail). 99% of your cuts can be in the same spot.