MFT-Style Workbench

[pe2dave]

With all the sharp objects in my shop, the extrusion ends are the least hazardous. However, I take your point. It doesn't show up will in the photos, but I did use some sandpaper on 80x40 top rail with sandpaper to break the edges. The vendor sells nice plastic caps for all of the extrusion, which I used on the drawer pulls. However, if I covered the ends, then I would have to mill eight more keyhole slots to regain use of the T-tracks.


Thank you!

I know which I'd prefer? 8 more keyhole slots.
I doubt your workshop gets cluttered, but a stray lead, a perfectly timed fall and ....
Health and Safety - as common sense? Go buy some end caps Mike.

 

[smackie]

Thanks for the tip, @MikeK - I’ll check out the specs. Not too worried about the weight for my bench (as it’s on a solid concrete floor) but it’s worth considering...

 

[clogs]

I also think it's something to behold.....
But ally extrusions would be out of my price bracket.....be nice if the total cost was tax deductable tho......
I have similar base benches but they are of steel construction....with a full 8x4 size sheets on the top....
both benches are capable of an Austin 7 parked on top.....
they do double duty as one has an 8mm steel plate top and the other is 3/4 ply....
with steel u can just weld it all together and add extra brackets as and when....
I will be making another similar bench from steel but the drawer/cupboard unit will made so that it will slip into the bench when finished.....cassette style......

 

[billw]

both benches are capable of an Austin 7 parked on top.....

"I wonder how I could test if these benches are solid enough to cope with some vigorous planing? Hmm....I know!"

 

[Doug71]

Amazing bench Mike, you should be very proud of it.

 

[Bodone]

That’s a very well constructed and documented project and really good of you to take the time to share. The software is pretty good, even runs on an ipad ok, now just to find a cheap supply of Aly‘ box section!

 

[Andy Kev.]

That looks so professional that nobody will believe that you made it yourself.

I shudder to think what something like that would cost if it were available commercially!

 

[custard]

Impeccable work! The thing I really admire about this project is how you’ve thought through every tiny detail in advance, for example you’ve planned exactly what accessory items will be most needed and you’ve ensured they’ll be right at hand when required.

 

[Ollie78]

Its too nice!!
you are going to cry when you accidentally saw too deep into it or drill right through.

I am pretty envious.

Ollie

 

[MikeK]

Thanks, everyone! The credit for this design goes to AtomicRyan at FOG. Had he not shared his project and YouTube videos, I doubt I would have considered it. My work is derivative of his.

I found some more receipts, and the revised cost for the workbench is about £2,750 based on today's exchange rate. I think this is still a bargain when considering the cost of buying Festool MFT/3 tables to have a similar surface area.

As this is not a museum piece, I'm not concerned with accidentally drilling or cutting the top. When the top becomes unusable, it is easy enough to replace. A full sheet of 19mm Valchromat is €81 (about £70). If my cunning plan on drilling the dog holes so they don't break out works, I'll be able to flip the top when it is ready and use the second side for a while.

If anyone is interested, I can provide the SketchUP .skp file I used for the design, as well as the item24 document.

 

[smackie]

If anyone is interested, I can provide the SketchUP .skp file I used for the design, as well as the item24 document.

I’d be really interested in the files, Mike. That’d be helpful as a basis for thinking about my own design...

Cheers!

Scott...

 

[MikeK]

Scott, I attached the .skp file. I use Make 2017 (the free version).

 

[Popey]

What a fascinating project and a significant undertaking. You must be delighted with the end result. It is missing one thing though: a leg vice...

 

[stimpy]

Inc - redible Mike!! That ought to do you nicely!!

 

[tradesman]

HI - just going through the first stages but would like to get the treatment sorted out - are we using OSMO ? if so which one - my bench is f/e ply legs and birch top

 

[billw]

HI - just going through the first stages but would like to get the treatment sorted out - are we using OSMO ? if so which one - my bench is f/e ply legs and birch top

Osmo would certainly do the trick. For my ply bench I'm using shellac (except on the top, not sure what I'll do with that yet).

 

[pe2dave]

I used this teak oil. Whatever, suggest use a short hair roller? Roll over holes to keep clear?
Even then, I have a piece of dowel with sandpaper to clean out those which received a bit of
sealant.

 

[MikeK]

HI - just going through the first stages but would like to get the treatment sorted out - are we using OSMO ? if so which one - my bench is f/e ply legs and birch top

I wanted to use Osmo hard wax oil satin finish, but none of the stores had it. One store had the Osmo in high gloss, but I didn't want a glossy work surface. I went with a different brand in a semi-matte, and am pleased with the results.

I used this teak oil. Whatever, suggest use a short hair roller? Roll over holes to keep clear?
Even then, I have a piece of dowel with sandpaper to clean out those which received a bit of
sealant.

I brushed my finish on for both coats. I had a 250ml can, and the roller would absorb too much that I couldn't recover. I didn't bother with cleaning the holes for the first coat because the oil was absorbed quickly by the Valchromat and there wasn't much to wipe off. However, the second coat was not absorbed as much and I did clean out any oil that built up in the holes.

My lesson learned on the second coat was to pay attention to the instructions on the can. When the manufacturer says wipe off after ten minutes, they mean ten minutes. Ten shall be the number. Not nine, except when going directly to ten. Eleven is right out. And don't even think of twenty, like I did.

The oil was not a problem on the first coat because it was mostly absorbed, but after the allotted time on the second coat, it started to set up and became difficult to wipe off and leave a good surface. I was not happy with the finish, and after it dried for two days, I went over the surface lightly with P400 grit on the orbital sander. Then I applied a new coat in small sections, five total, that I could handle easily. Success!

 

[pe2dave]

I put on 3 coats, with a roller, no problem. The right roller didn't seem to pick up much at all?
No 'excess over the edge' issues, which I've seen with paint?

 

[MikeK]

I put on 3 coats, with a roller, no problem. The right roller didn't seem to pick up much at all?
No 'excess over the edge' issues, which I've seen with paint?

Do you have a link to the roller you used? If so, I'll try to find some here. The rollers sold locally need to be loaded up before they apply a uniform coat. This could also be the reason why paint is more often sold here in quantities of one liter and more.

When I was considering a solvent-based polyurethane finish, the smallest can available from the manufacturer was five liters. I was happy to find a 250ml can of the oil I used and still have a little left over after my workbench project.